Inboard outboard air cooled engine

maxum247

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Hey maxum, I don't know if you put the aluminum plate for the exhuast over the transom yet, but IMO, I have rethunk it (like that word?:)), and don't recommend a perforated plate, you might not want exhaust gases, or heat, lingering in there, or coming back at you, I think a solid plate, with the ex. pipe running thru it maybe better.

Haven't yet! Not been able to locate what I need to do the job. I've got some thin metal from an old computer case. May use that! Threw the old lawn mower hood away while cleaning up the other day! Wasn't thinking that I may need it at the time. Aluminum is an item that I'd have to order, no big deal just don't need the amount I would have to order. Flashing that I can get is too thin to do the job and has to be purchased in a 30 ft roll anyway. Going to check a local welding business down the road this week, and see what they have!:(
 

MikDee

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Haven't yet! Not been able to locate what I need to do the job. I've got some thin metal from an old computer case. May use that! Threw the old lawn mower hood away while cleaning up the other day! Wasn't thinking that I may need it at the time. Aluminum is an item that I'd have to order, no big deal just don't need the amount I would have to order. Flashing that I can get is too thin to do the job and has to be purchased in a 30 ft roll anyway. Going to check a local welding business down the road this week, and see what they have!:(

Most hardware stores, like Ace, or Home Depot, or Loew's sell thin 2' x 4' sheets of aluminum, I'd be surprised if you couldn't find it?
 

maxum247

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Here's a sneak preview if you will of items that will be used to build the rudder for the "SHAKER"! I have two designs in mind! It seems some here like wood rudders and others like metal rudders, so I've decided to use both wood and metal for this project.

The items shown in the pictures are legs from an old barbeque grill, an old computer case and some hard wood. Figure this will give you something to ponder for awhile!:)
 

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MikDee

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Here's a sneak preview if you will of items that will be used to build the rudder for the "SHAKER"! I have two designs in mind! It seems some here like wood rudders and others like metal rudders, so I've decided to use both wood and metal for this project.

The items shown in the pictures are legs from an old barbeque grill, an old computer case and some hard wood. Figure this will give you something to ponder for awhile!:)

Just a note here, IMO your rudder has to be light enough, thick enough, and strong enough, not to bend easily, and yet not too heavy, or thick as to cause drag under water, and firmly supported, that's why I suggested it be sandwiched, into a slice in the middle of the pipe, and then bolted through. Personally I was thinking of a sheet of 9" square 3/8" plexiglas, because it's strong, rigid, doesn't bend, rust, or corrode.
 

maxum247

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Just a note here, IMO your rudder has to be light enough, thick enough, and strong enough, not to bend easily, and yet not too heavy, or thick as to cause drag under water, and firmly supported, that's why I suggested it be sandwiched, into a slice in the middle of the pipe, and then bolted through. Personally I was thinking of a sheet of 9" square 3/8" plexiglas, because it's strong, rigid, doesn't bend, rust, or corrode.

Rudder will be sandwiched between the pipe. Plexiglas, thought about that, could be an option! Think I like that better!:)
 

Lone Duck

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

HEEE HEE HEE! now thats what I call recycle. your gear on the boat is made out of a lawn tractor, and a barbeque. bits of plumbing and peices of pallet. And a bed frame. As my grandson would say, COOL!
 

MikDee

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Rudder will be sandwiched between the pipe. Plexiglas, thought about that, could be an option! Think I like that better!:)

Rethinking that, 3/8" Aluminum plate, would probably be better, stronger yet, and easier to chamfer, and, or, grind down the edges forless drag, either way I think it's a coin toss decision IMO :) Aside from that I'll butt out for now, and let you work out your plans for the rudder ;)
 

maxum247

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Here's the lower unit all sealed up with 5200, no turning back now! Let it dry up good, mount the motor in place and move on to hooking up the electrical.:)
 

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Lone Duck

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Here's the lower unit all sealed up with 5200, no turning back now! Let it dry up good, mount the motor in place and move on to hooking up the electrical.:)
Looks good. Most of the planing is over . Got a question. What is 5200? I have looked every where up here and no one has it. Is it a ready mixed epoxy?
 

MikDee

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Looks Good, All Sealed, with still some cavitation plate left making it Solid!
L.D., 4200, & 5200, Is 3M manufacturing's marine sealer, one is solid, and one is somewhat flexible, set up then the other (not sure which, is which?) but it's a legend as the best marine sealer, been around for yrs. here in the states.
 

maxum247

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Looks Good, All Sealed, with still some cavitation plate left making it Solid!
L.D., 4200, & 5200, Is 3M manufacturing's marine sealer, one is solid, and one is somewhat flexible, set up then the other (not sure which, is which?) but it's a legend as the best marine sealer, been around for yrs. here in the states.

5200 is marked permanent on the label.There's fast and slow cure.:)
 

maxum247

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

How do I ground the engine on this build there is no metal frame to ground to that is connected to the engine? The motor mount box is plywood, the only metal is the bed rail material conected to the lower unit, with the conection to the engine broken by the rubber coupling. Do I use a copper grounding strap from the engine to the bed rail which as I said is bolted to the lower unit? When I say ground I'm talking about grounding the starter selonoid for the neg battery cable. Do I need to ground both the engine and starter selonoid? I'm not good with electrical so I'm guessing!:confused:
 

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wildmaninal

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

I'm going to take a stab at this ground problem. Can't you ground it to the motor mount or to the likes. You should be able to mount it any where on the motor as long as it isn't near or on anything electrical. You might also be able to attach it to the lower unit mount but I don't know how good of a ground that will be. I wouldn't go with a copper strap, I would go with a regular ground wire similar to what a riding lawn mower had.

Don't forget you'll have the solenoid to deal with also :), you will half to find a spot to mount that. We have about a dozen old lawn mowers out here, I haven't dealt with a regular solenoid in a while but they are simple.
 

MikDee

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

I would think just like a car, Neg (ground) cable goes to the engine block wherever it is convenient, that's your main ground. Positive (+) goes to the starter solenoid, and a positive might go to the engine ignition (if need be) with the key switch in between.
 

maxum247

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

I would think just like a car, Neg (ground) cable goes to the engine block wherever it is convenient, that's your main ground. Positive (+) goes to the starter solenoid, and a positive might go to the engine ignition (if need be) with the key switch in between.

So if I'm getting this right, there doesn't have to be a metal frame for the engine and selonoid to mount to so they have a common ground like on a riding mower frame? I can ground the neg battery cable on the engine base and mount the selonoid on the plywood box, Is this correct?:redface:
 

MikDee

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

So if I'm getting this right, there doesn't have to be a metal frame for the engine and selonoid to mount to so they have a common ground like on a riding mower frame? I can ground the neg battery cable on the engine base and mount the selonoid on the plywood box, Is this correct?:redface:

Not familiar with a riding lawn mower? I don't know if your solenoid has to be grounded to that, but on a car the solenoid is usually mounted to the engine starter, or the firewall. Either way, if it needs to be grounded, just mount it to the engine, in another spot, or mount it where convenient, and ground strap it. You will know right away if you try mounting it on the wood, and it either does, or doesn't work? It's only a large electromagnet that closes 2 contacts to complete the circuit, & start, or run. No big deal, no safety issues.

Your ignition switch, has a hot lead 12V from the Batt. going to it, then a hot lead coming out that goes on for ignition, and another hot lead that comes out for the starter solenoid (only hot when you turn to the start position, of your ign. switch). Everything electrical here, is basically just completing a circuit.
 

Lone Duck

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Ground everything. Strap from L U to engine. From batt. to engine. From fuel tank to engine ,( don't want any static sparks happening) Ign. to engine. All components must be grounded together. Electronically speaking it must be one unit. Same as an out board. If you mount volt reg and selonoid to wood you must ground them. You may use copper strap if you wish. Like those rolls of copper pipe hanger strap with the holes in it. If you decide to put any switch or elec component on your steering apparatis you must ground it. Look at your other boats. all is grounded
 

MikDee

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

I agree with Lone Duck, it sounds like the right thing to do, ground everything you can. I think it's the safest thing to do.
 

maxum247

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Ground everything. Strap from L U to engine. From batt. to engine. From fuel tank to engine ,( don't want any static sparks happening) Ign. to engine. All components must be grounded together. Electronically speaking it must be one unit. Same as an out board. If you mount volt reg and selonoid to wood you must ground them. You may use copper strap if you wish. Like those rolls of copper pipe hanger strap with the holes in it. If you decide to put any switch or elec component on your steering apparatis you must ground it. Look at your other boats. all is grounded

I beleive I got it now, in the next few days I'll get it wired up and see what you think.

Started building the rudder last night, about half way there! I'll post some pictures, a little later to show my progress and see what you think!:)
 

Lone Duck

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

I beleive I got it now, in the next few days I'll get it wired up and see what you think.

Started building the rudder last night, about half way there! I'll post some pictures, a little later to show my progress and see what you think!:)

Thats great! Oh did you remove the rectifier from the tractor for the boat?
 
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