Replacing Transom/Advice Needed (Aluminum Hull) w/Pics

Esox

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Re: Replacing Transom/Advice Needed (Aluminum Hull) w/Pics

I read the same thing about the primer and bonding with aluminum on the seacast site. Seems as though it will work as long as I can dam up the bottom.​

I started drilling and cutting out the old wood. Wow is this going to be a big job - not that i though it would be easy. I have maybe a 1/4 of the wood removed. The two peices of wood are stapled together with a lot of staples - the saw and drill bit are not happy cutting through metal. I think the chain needs sharpening already.​

Now my main focus is going to be getting access to the thru-bolts on the starboard side. If it involves removing the floor to get to them I'm in for an even bigger job. I don't see any seams in the carpet so not sure if/where the plywood seams are. I'm also not sure what's under the floor - other than foam.​

Thanks for all the help guys! I wouldn't have been able to do this without your help.​
 

Gary H NC

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Re: Replacing Transom/Advice Needed (Aluminum Hull) w/Pics

Hang in there! It took me 3 days to get the wood out.
I just finished all my final fiberglass work this evening.
All thats left is light sanding and shooting the paint on the transom.It was good to stand back and see a solid transom..And know the hard part is over.

I'm still trying to destroy my test chunk of Seacast...I have thrown it up in the air and let it hit the concrete,hammered it,smacked it and run over it with my dually truck and still can't break it..Going to take into the woods and see what a .22 rifle will do...:cool:
 

Nova II 260

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Re: Replacing Transom/Advice Needed (Aluminum Hull) w/Pics

Let the Chainsaw do the work..don't force it. Patience. Shop vac the chips. Wear dust mask at the minimum. Mold can kill ya, damn near did me...
Grind the heads off those through hull rivits or drill them out. You should be able to replace them with SS bolts/nuts of the same diameter.

I don't understand the bottom being "open" if you have alum. on both front and back could you not just put a 1/2" x height +" piece of wood on the bottom?
You could 5200 it in or even use duct tape to hold it, so that there is a bottom for the Seacast to go/stop to.
Cheer-up! Think of the money you're saving with practically the same end result. Good for the next 20+ years.
 

tashasdaddy

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Re: Replacing Transom/Advice Needed (Aluminum Hull) w/Pics

that why the electric saw is good, it's not aggressive, and you don't cut what you don't want to.
 

Esox

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Re: Replacing Transom/Advice Needed (Aluminum Hull) w/Pics

The bottom is open as the wood in the transom doesn't go all the way to the bottom of the hull. It looks as though it stops around where the chines are. In this picture you can see where the inner transom skin and wood stop - about in the middle of the photo - maybe 4-5" below the lower engine mounting holes(the white spots). Below that is where the live well pick-ups, bilge drain and rear live well drain run through the transom - Just a single sheet of alum. Hope that makes sense.​

There are no rivets going through the transom. They're bolts. The problem with that is I don't have access to the nuts on the inside. I can cut them out but putting new ones in will require access from the inside. I did some more poking around and found to remove the floor I will need to pull the carpet. The floor was screwed down and the carpet was installed over the screws :(

At this point I'm considering leaving the inaccessible screws in the transom. Removing the splash well or floor to gain access to them is a ton of extra work. I should be able to get all the wood out even with them in. Wondering if leaving them in will affect the seacast pour.?.?​
 

Gary H NC

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Re: Replacing Transom/Advice Needed (Aluminum Hull) w/Pics

The bolts won't affect it at all.The Seacast will flow around them.I would leave them in and save yourself a ton of extra work.
Just closing off where the bottom edge of the wood was and you should be good to go.
Things are looking up,maybe just one 5 gallon bucket?
It took 15 gallons to do mine..
 

Esox

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Re: Replacing Transom/Advice Needed (Aluminum Hull) w/Pics

Thanks Gary. That's a huge relief :)

I guess I should take some measurements and figure out how much seacast I'll need and order it. Hopefully I'll be back on the water in a few weeks and then I can finish dialing in my setup!​

I'll keep ya posted on the progress. Thanks again!​
 

tashasdaddy

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Re: Replacing Transom/Advice Needed (Aluminum Hull) w/Pics

that is a typical transom for an aluminum boat. if you can get the wood out, pour around them, then they will probably never come out. you will have to take a rod/dowel, and work the seacast into those areas. you may have to leave some wood in the sides to keep the seafoam from running out where you cannot access to build the dam.
 

tashasdaddy

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Re: Replacing Transom/Advice Needed (Aluminum Hull) w/Pics

the way they get around using a full wood transom the the braceing they use to transfer the load to the hull. thats why those bulkheads are there. you can see them in this old girl, and how rotted her transom was, this is one that got the 3 piece transom, now has a 1971 50hp rude on it.

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f119/tashasdaddy/MVC-025S.jpg
 

Gary H NC

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Re: Replacing Transom/Advice Needed (Aluminum Hull) w/Pics

Any updates on the wood removal?:)
 

Esox

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Re: Replacing Transom/Advice Needed (Aluminum Hull) w/Pics

Over 75% of the wood is removed! :) So far I have about 25Hrs into it. I figure another 3-5Hrs and it will be all out. The staples, bolts and screws are taking their toll on the chain and drill bits. So far I've broken 6 bits and have had to sharpen the chain 3 times but it's a small price to pay compared to the alternatives.​
 

Gary H NC

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Re: Replacing Transom/Advice Needed (Aluminum Hull) w/Pics

Keep plugging away at it!;) Its a hard job but you will get through it.
I still have not hung my motor back on either.Had to repaint the transom..:rolleyes:
 

Nova II 260

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Re: Replacing Transom/Advice Needed (Aluminum Hull) w/Pics

It's too bad there is not a wood eating chemical of sorts, that could be poured in, let set and rinse in a few hours. There is an acid in the gut of termites, but retrieval is a bit difficult.
Here is another option But a chainsaw is easier to control.
 

Esox

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Re: Replacing Transom/Advice Needed (Aluminum Hull) w/Pics

So your 175 is still hanging from that big oak tree in your back yard Gary? :D I used one of my extra car engine stands so mine is siting in the garage. I bolted my jack plate to it - worked out well.​

I was thinking the same thing Nova. I suppose anything that will eat the wood away in a few hours will also eat the aluminum away. :eek: I need to get some of those gorillas! That would save me a lot of work! lol BTW....Thanks for the tip on the black mold. The last thing I need is for this thing to kill me.​
 

Esox

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Re: Replacing Transom/Advice Needed (Aluminum Hull) w/Pics

Was busy last week with work and was in Minnesota since Friday so I haven't made much progress since my last post. I have the day off so I hope to get the rest of the wood removed today. I'll keep ya posted on the progress :)
 

Gary H NC

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Re: Replacing Transom/Advice Needed (Aluminum Hull) w/Pics

The rest of my parts should be here in a couple days so i can get the engine out of the tree...:D

Keep us posted. Good luck!!
 

Esox

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Re: Replacing Transom/Advice Needed (Aluminum Hull) w/Pics

I am so mad right now. I have a 6"x6" square of plywood left to remove and I need to call it a day. I smashed the top of my hand earlier when the hammer slipped off the end of the chisel. It hurts so bad right now I had to call it quits for the day. Oh well.......Hopefully the swelling will go down and it will feel a little better tomorrow so I can finish the plywood removal.​
 

Gary H NC

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Re: Replacing Transom/Advice Needed (Aluminum Hull) w/Pics

Sometimes its better to step back and take a break.
If i don't bleed once a day while working on mine something is wrong..:D

Hang in there!!;)
 

Esox

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Re: Replacing Transom/Advice Needed (Aluminum Hull) w/Pics

Well, 10 broken drill bits, 1 severely streched saw chain, several cuts, 1 smashed hand and a little over 30 hours of labor and the wood is all gone.:) I still need to measure the transom and then I can order the seacast on Monday. Things are looking up now that the hard part is over.​
 
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Re: Replacing Transom/Advice Needed (Aluminum Hull) w/Pics

I think you may be making this harder than it really is.. have faith in your abilities!
Remove the wood and grind, drill, saw, chisel and hack your way through all of the screws and rivets without fear! aluminum can be drilled and secured with through bolts at the worst.. and a good coat of silicone in the hole before you plunge the screw or bolt through will work wonders and last forever.It can be as neat as you decide.. just have patience.
The hole at the bottom of the transom can be taped, boarded, with the help of a wedge or you can simply use expansion foam to fill the void and clean it off later with a wire brush attachment on a grinder or drill.
Seacast really sounds like the way to go.. just plan for cleanup and re-painting as needed..if needed.
Also you might be able to replace the screws nuts, bolts or rivets prior to the Seacast pour just don't snug them up too much as not to warp the aluminum, the seacast alone might seal whatever holes that might repeat "might" leak.
good luck and keep us posted!
 
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