Trailer Issue... What to expect??

[dingbat]

Well....There are experiences where people used the EZ-Lube system and covered the entire inside of their drum with grease rendering them useless. Does it happen to everyone...of course not.

The chances are greatly reduced / eliminated if you use the right seal and hub assembly.

System worked flawlessly for 4 years. Replaced hubs and problems started. Measured rear seal cavity and found it shorter than previous one, causing a partical blockage of the grease passage. New hubs and the problem went away.

Same issue with seals. Loadrite doesn?t use your ?standard? seal size. 1.68? vs 1.72?. To close to tell visually. Didn?t find the problem until I measured for speedi-sleeves to fix an ongoing seal issue. Installed correct seals, problem went away

 

[Baylinerchuck]

I purchased a new axle for my EZ Loader trailer that was for my Bayliner. The original was a square galvanized axle. Since I'm in fresh water and didn't want to wait, I opted for converting to a round axle Dexter. The axle was in stock at Nuera locally. All that was required was new u-bolts. It was an easy afternoon project. The EZ Lube system came standard on this axle. I like the system, but think the positive pressure of the bearing buddies are the way to go.

 

[bruceb58]

The chances are greatly reduced / eliminated if you use the right seal and hub assembly.

The people that have issues are using the complete assemblies from Dexter. These are brand new trailers having this issue.

 

[trailking82]

My vote is for bearing buddies on a boat trailer. If you initially pack your bearings, lightly fill the cavity then install/top off the bearing buddies you will be good to go. Occasionally topping them off to ensure you can wiggle the zerk disk is the best practice. The benefit to this system is to keep the pressure in the hub to prevent water intrusion but mainly it still makes you pull the hub to service the bearings every year or 2. The EZ Lube styles are focused toward on road trailers, where pulling a hub every 3-5 years is common to check condition. EZ Lube axles really have no business on a boat trailer all they do is make lazy boat owners and destroyed bearings because eventually no one will pull them to check bearing condition they will just keep pumping grease in.

Also stay away from oil bath bearings, they really have no business in the marine industry. I think most boat/marine trailer manufactures are finely realizing that.

 

[dingbat]

The people that have issues are using the complete assemblies from Dexter. These are brand new trailers having this issue.

Trying to figure out how the heck you blow a seal on an opened end pipe...... Took some time and google it. After the 3 or 4 threads the problem was quite obvious, they didn't follow the directions and over greased. Same problem you have with bearing buddies if you insist on pumping grease until the plunger bottoms. out.

GREASE USE GUIDELINES
It is important to use the proper amount of grease in the
application. In typical industrial applications, the bearing cavity
should be kept approximately one-third to one-half full. Less
grease may result in the bearing being starved for lubrication.
More grease may result in churning. Both conditions may result
in excessive heat generation. As the grease temperature rises,
viscosity decreases and the grease becomes thinner. This can
reduce the lubricating effect and increase leakage of the grease
from the bearing. It also may cause the grease components
to separate, leading to a general breakdown of the lubricant
properties. As the grease breaks down, bearing torque increases.
In the case of excess grease resulting in churning, torque may
also increase due to the resistance caused by the grease.
For best results, there should be ample space in the housing to
allow room for excess grease to be thrown from the bearing.
However, it is equally important that the grease be retained all
around the bearing. If a large void exists between the bearings,
grease closures should be used to prevent the grease from
leaving the bearing area.

 

[jbuote]

Wow!!
​Tons of great info out of this...
​From the further research I've done on the subject, and what I've read here thanks to you all, I have to agree.. No matter which "System" I use, I risk blowing the inner seal out if:
​A) Pneumatic grease gun is used.
B) Hand grease gun pumped too fast..
​C) Wheel not rotating as you fill/replace (depending on "System"..)

​These scenarios can create a pressure on the inner seal and blow it out before you're really done. The grease would need time to work it's way through the bearings and cavities etc... so add grease slowly. Take your time, and be sure it's done right..

​Rotating the wheel as you lube in the case of the EZ-Lube system...
​The video from Dexter on the EZ-Lube, shows that you change the grease just by adding grease while rotating the wheel for even distribution until the new grease comes out the front.. Then you're done..
​Do it too fast, and I can see the seal blowing..

​I've really come to the conclusion that any and ALL off the available options are really just fine to use.
​One doesn't stand "Dramatically" above the others as long as whatever direction I go, it's done properly, and at the correct maintenance intervals for the system in use.
With the exception of Oil Based bearings.. I'd hate to lose a cap, and then I'm toast in a mile or 2..
​Those may be incredible for semis and long haul highway folks, but not for me on a boat trailer (My opinion on those anyway... LOL...)

​Even the option of no "System" and just basic bearings, hand packed, and properly maintained at the right intervals..
​Heck, that's how it was done for YEARS before these "Systems" came out.. LOL

​Today it stopped raining, but didn't get a chance to pull the wheel to see what's really there..
​Hoping to do that tomorrow to finish putting this puzzle of what I need together..

​You ALL have been wonderful in sharing your thoughts on this, and Please! Keep it coming!!
​I appreciate all the thoughts and opinions very much!!

​Till tomorrow!! (I hope!! LOL)

 

[dingbat]

I started out with a single axle trailer with old style knock off metal caps. Could go the entire season without maintenance but ended up with a rusted mess come April if I didn't change the grease before winter storage.

The next trailer was a tandem with bearing buddies. No more changing the grease every winter but went thru bearing buddies on a pretty regular basis. Peak year I believe I lost 4 of them @ $20 a piece.

The trailer I have now has the Loadrite version of the EZ system. Had some trouble early until I figured out the previous owner substituted parts on me. Ordered the correct parts and things work well. I loose one metal cap a season and replaced the rubber caps twice (dry rot) in the 15 years I've owned the trailer.

Where the system really shines is inspection and changing the grease. It takes me all of 20 seconds to pop the rubber stopper to check bearing for grease contamination, i.e.water. Should I find water, it takes me a tube of grease and 15 minutes to remedy. Being a firm believer in don't fix whats not broken, I only change grease when I find water, otherwise I'm good to go.

Hopefully the problem I found this spring resolved the seal issues on the brake axle. Otherwise, the back hubs have not been off the trailer in almost 5 years. Changing grease due to oxidation (turns black) on a boat trailer is a good thing....

Words of wisdom...no matter what system you use, do yourself a favor and use the best double lipped, spring backed seals you can find. Can be hard to find at parts stores. I get mine from a local bearing supply house.

 

[jbuote]

Words of wisdom...no matter what system you use, do yourself a favor and use the best double lipped, spring backed seals you can find. Can be hard to find at parts stores. I get mine from a local bearing supply house.

I've read a few things about double lipped spring seals.. Hear so far, it's the way to go..
​I'll be sure to take that to heart during this..

​Thank you dingbat !!

 

[bruceb58]

Trying to figure out how the heck you blow a seal on an opened end pipe...... Took some time and google it. After the 3 or 4 threads the problem was quite obvious, they didn't follow the directions and over greased. Same problem you have with bearing buddies if you insist on pumping grease until the plunger bottoms. out.

Not sure where you read the instructions but they are here:

http://www.dexteraxle.com/docs/defau....pdf?sfvrsn=10

The grease actually needs to flow through the rear bearing. The pressure required to flow through this bearing can sometimes exceed the pressure that will blow out the rear seal. So there goes your open pipe theory!

I have been working on trailers since the 70s. Never seen a trailer yet without a double lip seal.

 

[bruceb58]

As far as" popping off the cap and seeing if there is water in there" on the EZ Lubes, I did my normal "pull the hub" preventive maintenance and found inner bearing ruined because of water intrusion on multiple hubs. You have to pull the hubs to really inspect the bearings. Water or not at the outer bearing means nothing. As I found out, it takes minimal amount of moisture past the inner seal to wipe out the bearings.

 

[redneck joe]

i have the ez lube and thus far no problems after a couple thousand miles and ~30 launches other than I did not use marine grease and i did get some water in and the grease emulsified.

I pumped the bad out as directed and all good.

The intrusion was apparently cause by the rubber inserts being bad. Not sure why they went bad so quickly but i bought more and added rubber caps.


I had the buddies and have lost them a few times.

 

[ahicks]

I can see this potential in theory, but not in actual practice.

"The grease actually needs to flow through the rear bearing. The pressure required to flow through this bearing can sometimes exceed the pressure that will blow out the rear seal. So there goes your open pipe theory!"

The average hand held/pumped grease gun pumps grease at a fairly low volume. Yes, it can build to pretty high pressure, but for that to happen there needs to be a restriction. If you look at a bearing (inner or outer), and consider the volume of grease available from hand gun, it should be easily seen that there's PLENTY of room for grease to flow freely in it's path between the rollers. To force or unseat the inner seal is going to require something else going on, that's not allowing grease to flow further down the path it's flowing - or - somebody in a hurry using that typical grease gun that's somehow overwhelming the grease's ability to flow through the bearings. Again, I can see that potential in theory, but not in practice. Not by somebody that understands the potential for that seal to be blown out anyway. -Al

 

[bruceb58]

I can see this potential in theory, but not in actual practice.

Well...what can I say...the people that have had this happen with brand new axles must be just imagining these things.

 

[Trevor H]

When you start using a boat on a trailer , it is best to accept that you will need to replace the bearings in the trailer possibly every year especially if you are launching in salt water

The bearings must be kept well packed with grease , always use bearings with grease nipples, Grease before a journey and launch
And repack on a regular basis

Buying wheels with hubs and bearings can be an easier solution to changing the bearings and often costs the same

 

[ahicks]

Well...what can I say...the people that have had this happen with brand new axles must be just imagining these things.

OR, they didn't read the directions/familiarize themselves with proper procedure....

 

[bruceb58]

OR, they didn't read the directions/familiarize themselves with proper procedure....

Even the dealers were having issues. Maybe they weren't doing it right either I guess. Some of these dealers would never touch anything I own.

Bottom line...there is a risk...If you don't mind taking the risk, go for it.I chose not to take the risk with a trailer with drum brakes. If you have an idler hub or disk, you can see if the seal gets blown so less risk to do this.

https://www.google.com/search?q=ez+l...utf-8&oe=utf-8

 

[bruceb58]

...always use bearings with grease nipples,

LOL...have a picture?

 

[redneck joe]

Now id like to nee pictures too....

 

[jbuote]

Now id like to nee pictures too....

LOL!!

Soooooo.......

​I was able to get out there today and get the wheel off to see what I really have left.. haha...
Pretty much as expected..

​Posting a bunch of pictures so others like me in the future can see what happens when a bearing lets go..
​Looking at these, it's bad... But I'm surprised it's not worse than it is based on what I found...
​You'll see my conclusion of what to do after the pics...

​Outer Bearing.. (What's left..)



​Outer Race


Inner Race


Spindle


​Spindle Damage



​There was no real sign of an Inner Bearing aside from the race in the hub..
​No taper bearing remnants, no casings really.. Just race and sleeve on spindle looks like..
​I think (As was mentioned earlier in this thread, First mentioned by Grub and Scott), the inner bearing let go and disintegrated, and the wheel moved inward on the spindle, popping the dust cap off, and exposing the outer bearing...

​So, with the spindle on one side that bad, and the hubs aren't looking so good anyway, I think the decision has been made..

New Axle.. LOL

I think I'm just going to get one that has everything with it.. (hubs, bearings, grease etc..)
​Now to read what you've all posted here again, and again, to help myself feel like when I do choose the "Style", that I made the best decision I can, for my situation, type of usage, etc... with the information I have at hand..

​I'll keep updating this as I go, so it's a log of everything that happened to a "Newbie who didn't do what he should have in the first place.. "
​I'll wear that badge, as long as this all helps somebody, Anybody, Just one someone else AVOID this happening to them in the future..

​Todays Lesson:
​"ALWAYS check your new trailer over. Take off the wheels, service the bearings and any other serviceable parts WHEN YOU FIRST GET IT... "
​I will forever now equate this with
​"Always replace your impellor on a new to you outboard. Even if the seller says it's good.. Only trust YOUR OWN maintenance work... (trusted shop, or DIY).. "

​Thanks All!
​Keep it coming! LOL...

 

[redneck joe]

Well thanks for the pics, i was hoping for......


now is the time to add brakes if you want them .


here is my thread. You can see the pics if you add the extension that works around the photobucket extortion and use chrome.

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/gene...ies/trailers-and-towing/8289496-trailer-rehab