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Re-sealing a DP-SM outdrive

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  • Re-sealing a DP-SM outdrive

    I have leak in my outdrive- there was milky oil when i drained it. I am going to reseal it. I have a service manual and I bought both the upper and lower seal kit (VP# 3850594 & 3856002) and the 3855955 spanner. I want to tear it apart and inspect everything and change all the seals. What other special tools are needed? I don't plan on changing any bearings or gears- unless needed. Drive ran and shifted fine just had water in it and is leaking. It is off an 2001 and had 330 hours on it. I figured i would go thru it all. How hard is this job? I believe I have to set the rolling torque- just rather not get into setting up gear lash/patterns. I have already pulled the drive and separated the upper and lower halves.

  • #2
    I was going to buy the 3855955 level 1 tool kit -till I saw the $700 price tag too.

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    • #3
      EDIT: I bought the VP #3855877 spanner in 1st post

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      • #4
        I have also just received my 3855877 and the lower seal kit, However my boat is under storage until the spring.
        Please let me know how you get on and pass on any tips please.
        PS. best of luck!

        Cranchi Ellipse 21
        5.0Gi (PWTR) 1999.
        DP-SM outdrive

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        • #5
          Where did you get the spanner tool 3855877? I ordered it and was called yesterday and told it is backordered from volvo and there is no ETA on it. No one seems to have it in stock.

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          • #6
            I also ordered it online from a Volvo agent in Rosas in Spain, after a week he called to say it was on back order etc., Then another week later he called to say it had arrived.
            I had told him I was in no hurry but would need it by May. It is new and in it's box.
            Best of luck.

            Cranchi Ellipse 21
            5.0Gi (PWTR) 1999.
            DP-SM outdrive

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            • #7
              gentlemen:
              I've been working on my Cobra outdrive quite a while and have replaced a few seals over the years. I would most likely leave the job to a trained mechanic if it involved resetting rolling torque or something of that level of precision. Why not do a pressure test first with soapy water to see where the leaks are? There are certain seals you can replace without needing special tools and it may turn out that your leak is relatively simple to repair. I would do that first.
              1988 Four Winns 200 Horizon
              4.3 OMC Cobra

              98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 Selectrac
              07 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 5.7 Quadradrive II

              "While air doesn't freeze....rust never sleeps"

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              • #8
                I am a skilled tradesman -electrician and do all my own work, unless it's under warranty. I have built motors, truck, quads, sleds, motorcycles, etc.. I grew up on a farm my dad is a mechanic, I am just new to boats. I always buy a factory service manual and factory specialized tools. I have done truck rear ends too. Honestly would rather do the work myself. Just looking for some tips

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                • #9
                  Ahh in that case you already have the skill set to do these jobs and if you are going keep the boat a long time it makes sense to get the tools, I'd also get a factory shop manual. I have one for my Cobra and its excellent.
                  1988 Four Winns 200 Horizon
                  4.3 OMC Cobra

                  98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 Selectrac
                  07 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 5.7 Quadradrive II

                  "While air doesn't freeze....rust never sleeps"

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I have serviced my own drive on many occasions and your mechanical background is more expansive than mine. I would first start with the pressure and vacuum tests with soapy water to try to pinpoint the bad seal. Then at a minimum replace that seal. After that, and the knowledge gained you can begin to tackle the other seals for replacement on a maintenance basis.
                    Summer Fling-II
                    2008 Chaparral Sunesta 264
                    Summer Fling
                    2003 Chaparral Sunesta 243

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                    • #11
                      I have rebuilt two of the DP-SM outdrives. This included replacing all seals, bearings and shims. Yes, the complete rebuild is greatly facilitated by having the factory tools but most of the tools are for doing the bearing and shim work. It has been a while, since I did these but as I recall the seal replacement was fairly simple once the outter ring is removed and the bearing carrier pulled out. The spanner discussed really makes removing and replacing that ring very easy. The workshop manual provides the procedure along with the torque values. You may also need a dial test indicator to do this correctly.

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                      • #12
                        I was wonder how you make out with the rebuild. I'm in the process of rebuilding mind. I have it all torn down.
                        You will need the spanner tool as state above. And you will need to reset the backlash. As you stated if you have a mechanic skill Is not that difficult. I will post pictures of the seals replacement when Im done. I couldn't find any posts of a tear down of the Volvo DP-sm drive anywhere.

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                        • #13
                          Thanks ynot. I couldn't find anything online either. I am still waiting on the spanner tool.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by ynotrepairs View Post
                            I was wonder how you make out with the rebuild. I'm in the process of rebuilding mind. I have it all torn down.
                            You will need the spanner tool as state above. And you will need to reset the backlash. As you stated if you have a mechanic skill Is not that difficult. I will post pictures of the seals replacement when Im done. I couldn't find any posts of a tear down of the Volvo DP-sm drive anywhere.
                            You are using the factory drive manual, correct?
                            Cheesehead boating the Gulf Coast of FLA 27.51° N, 82.53° W

                            1988 Cruisers Rogue 2420 -VP 290 DP now powered by custom 468 - https://forums.iboats.com/forum/owner...988-rogue-2420

                            Past Boats
                            1970 Wooster Hellion - Merc 9.8
                            2002 SeaRay 190BR - 5.0 - A1G2 - "Cheeseheads in Paradise"
                            1984 Avanti 170DLI -3.0 stringer- "Ship Happens"

                            What’s behind you doesn’t matter.Enzo Ferrari

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                            • #15
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                              I do not have the URL handy, but I was able to download it off the web for free. It has everything in it you will need to do this job including the proper tools, torque settings, etc. Would not attempt without the manual and factory tools unless you are a trained and experienced tech on these drives.

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