Can I run my engine without muffs, if it has this?

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cdnNick

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This is my first time getting the boat ready in the spring and I was inspecting the engine last night and noticed a blue cap with a water tap on it. It looks like a garden hose will hook up to it and from searching the net it looks like it's a freshwater flush hookup. So does that mean I can connect a hose to it and run the engine without using muffs on the water intake?

IMG_20160517_204448.jpg
 

meder24

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I would think using the flush instead of muffs would be a good way to burn up your impeller since no water will be passing through the water pump portion.
 

BRICH1260

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Yes you can. That adapter allows you to run the engine without muffs. Let the water run for a few seconds before starting, until it comes out the drive, then start it. Do not go above 1K rpm's. This water will be directed into the water intake line and feed your water pump. Make sure you reinstall the blue cap tight when done or you will draw air and then burn up your pump.
 
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spoilsofwar

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I would think using the flush instead of muffs would be a good way to burn up your impeller since no water will be passing through the water pump portion.

Incorrect; the pump is located on the engine for these VP engines and drives. The impeller will see water when the hose is attached to the flush port.

You are free to run the engine with a hose hooked to this port, it says so right in the manual and I've done it for years.
 

jimmbo

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Water doesn't go the pump the normal path. Once the block fills, water will run backwards to the raw water pump from the thermostat housing and will keep it from running dry

On my VP the flush hose goes to the two block drains
 
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Blue2005

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Yup. As others have said, hook up the water hose and wait for water to exit through the drive and you're good to go.

And do make sure that blue cap is closed when you take the boat out. I forgot one time and it ran for a few seconds but it was long enough to burn up my my impeller....lol
 

jimmbo

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I didn't cap mine, it filled the bilge until the starter was under water. On my VP the flush hose goes to the two block drains
 

cdnNick

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OK, so I should see water coming out the intake on the stern drive where the muffs would normally go? Then it would be safe to start the engine.

I'll have to look through the manual again, is it in the owners manual or the service manual? My boat didn't have either when I bought it but I found copies online.
 

cdnNick

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Found it in the Operator's Manual.

Engine Flush
Volvo Penta engines incorporate an engine flushing port designed to flush the engine with fresh water while the engine is running. If flushing the engine with the boat in the water, the engine should not be run higher than idle or sea water may be drawn in with the fresh water.

1. If the engine is running, shut it down.

2. Remove the blue plastic cap from the hose that is clamped to the starboard side of the engine. It is marked with the running engine flush symbol (1).

3. Connect a water hose from a fresh water source to the flush connector on the engine (2).

4. Turn water on full and start the engine.

5. Let engine idle until engine temperature stabilizes at its normal operating range. This will allow the thermostat to open and ensure the fresh water circulates throughout the engine.

6. After engine is flushed, shut engine the down.

7. Disconnect water hose and reinstall the cap.

volvoflush.jpg
 
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BRICH1260

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Some earlier Volvo flushes are for flushing the block and manifolds while the engine is not running. The hoses in this system go into the two block banks directly and do not feed the water pump. But if it has the blue cap, behind the fuel cell, it feeds water directly into the seawater pump and the engine can be running. Kinda confusing, just make sure which system you have.
 

skydiveD30571

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You have the newest version as described above. Use it instead of your muffs, that's what it is there for.
 

Fun Times

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How do I tell which system it is? It's a 2004/5 engine.
Step 2. mentions, Remove the blue plastic cap from the hose that is clamped to the starboard side of the engine. It is marked with the running engine flush symbol (1).

The lined arrow on top of the blue cap shows a motion of the engine turning/running. In this case it's shown turning in a clockwise direction indicating it is safe to flush the engine while running.

For those that may be confused with if you should be running the engine or not, it's going to depend on the design of the flush kit you have installed and also the year of your boat. The new flush design that allows running the engine seems to have started sometime in 2003.

A few of the 2002 and under boats has a different designed Volvo OEM flush kit that connects to the engine block as to where the 2003+ boats TEE into the inlet water hose just before the impeller housing....Now just to be cautious with the years mentioned, there does seem to be a small discrepancy online of exactly when Volvo changed to the new design.... So if you have a Volvo engine made between 2002 and 2004, it would be wise to follow the flush hose to see where it leads to whether it be the engine block or impeller inlet hose just to be on the safe side....The blue cap though appears to be the change in design, but still best to look.

For both accurate inspection purposes and older engines that may want to incorporate the new design, Another website put together a parts list with a pretty good photo of where to look (or connect) for the new design. The link won't work here on iboats so the info is quoted below.
[h=1]GARDEN HOSE ENGINE FLUSH PROJECT[/h]
Estimated time, start to finish:1 hour
What you get:Flush kit for gas engines, allows you to run your engine while connected to a 3/4" garden hose. Hose connects to the blue cap in the picture. This is a standard feature on recent Volvo Penta gas engines.
Cost of parts:$24.15
Parts required:
(please note there are different parts depending on your engine hose diameter)
While Volvo Penta does not sell this as a kit, we have determined that these are the parts you will need: 3862656 (Cap), 3862082 (Retainer), 3862079 (Gasket), 3807440 (Flushing connection), 978174 (hose clamps, you need two), 982645 (more hose clamps, also quantity two), 3857823 (hose) clamp (3862891) screw (formerly 3853557 but now expired as of 6/1/2011--you will need to supply your own screw #7 in the diagram) and 3862699 (T-pipe for 1" pipe). Just to be clear: don't try to order the expired screw online, the shopping cart will allow you to do it, but then our parts department will call you to tell you it is no longer available.
If you have a 1-1/4 in. engine pipe: then you need a different T-pipe, 3589415 and 2 larger clamps: 3853786.
flush%20conn.jpg
 

cdnNick

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Thanks for the info. I'll try to follow the hose to see where it is connected. I was planning on running it tonight, we can to head out on the water on Sunday.
 

cdnNick

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Fired it up yesterday with the hose connected to the flush port and it ran great. Got some water in the bilge before I realized one of the drain plugs in the block was open other then that it went smooth.

We spent today on the water.
 

bajaunderground

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Mine's the 2003...it has the 't' right before the sea water pump...I prefer the muffs, but in a pinch, I'll use the VP designed one. No real good reason why, just a preference.
 

c3xxkrez

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Is it safe to put a garden hose quick connect adaptor on my volvo flush intake and just leave it connected while have the boat in the water?
 
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