Bendix / Starter gear sticking in flywheel ?

[Rake722]

Came to start my rebuilt engine, timing not set, no start, weird clinching sound every few turns then bendix sticks in flywheel on a slight angle. Looks like it might have ridden over teeth ?

ill pull the starter at the weekend but why would this happen and how to avoid reoccurrence ?

could a slight misfire or backfire cause this ?

thanks

ron

 

[alldodge]

What motor?

 

[Rake722]

Merc 470 with modern marine starter that has its own solenoid.

 

[alldodge]

The 470 is a motor I don't know much about, the 470 guys should be along shortly.

Will say according to manual 3 it list a shim may be needed for install, and the pinion gear clearance is shown but don't see it listed in the manual

 

[kenny nunez]

The early style starters made by Prestolite were bad about damaging the flywheel teeth. If you remove the starter turn the motor by hand and inspect the flywheel. The ring gear is easy to replace and available at NAPA. Also I suggest that you replace the starter drive with a new one. Make sure that it is not a rebuilt drive,

 

[Rake722]

Thanks. The starter motor is a generic marine one like rec marine. It’s has little use and quite new. The flywheel was inspected last week when I installed it and had no damage to the teeth. It has always worked well until now.

if the engine coughed or backfired slightly while cranking could it have jolted the starter shaft ?

 

[kenny nunez]

Are you sure that the firing order is correct? Is the rotor lining up for the #1 with the timing mark ? These are also possible causes which may be the problem. Do you have good quality points and condenser and not that Big Box auto supply junk?
Petronics kits work great on these marine applications.

 

[Scott Danforth]

is this a new name-brand stater or one of the chinesium starters?

if the bendix is "at an angle" like described in post #1, then either the starter pinion shaft is bent, the nose of the stater is cracked, the bushings are gone or the starter is not firmly bolted in place.

 

[Rake722]

Thanks guys.

tje engine was not timed correctly when it happened. The rotor was halfway between 1 and 3. The engine is fitted with pertronix.

scott it’s not Chinese but it is aftermarket, I agree that with it being at an angle the pinion or bearings are compromised. I’ll need to pull it to check.

going down to the yard tomorrow. Will pull the rocker, find tdc firing on pot 1, set distributor to be on 1 firing then try starting again if the starter is not broke

 

[Rake722]

Going back to prestolite

 

[GA_Boater]

Did you find the nose? That was probably the clinking sound.

Most likely bad timing causing kickback broke the nose off. Not the starters fault at all.

 

[Rake722]

Yep I agree that it’s most likely kickback as was my suspicion all along.

i haven’t found the nose as yet but with the prestolite installed there is no problem and no abnormal sounds when cranking.

the prestolite is a beast in comparison. Any reason why not to use it ?

 

[Scott Danforth]

you need to find the nose

 

[Rake722]

That might be a challenge with the motor installed.

any tips on that ?

thanks

 

[GA_Boater]

The first time the boat hits a wave and bounces you will find the nose when it jams the flywheel or busts the Prestolite starter. There isn't much room for the nose not to hit something and cause more damage.

Easy way to get it out - No. If you're really, really, really lucky you can remove the flywheel housing cover and look. Item # 6. If you're really, really, really lucky you might see the nose, not that it will come out because the flywheel takes up most of the space between the housing and flywheel.

 

[Rake722]

The only word that comes to mind can’t be written.

i guess the presto will have to come off and some coat hanger fishing for starters (unintended pun).

 

[Rake722]

Starter Nose Cone Broken in bellhousing - Help.

Its a merc 470 - have another thread running but this is to specifically address the nose cone being broken in the bellhousing.

Anyone have any ideas on getting the remains out without having to pull the motor ?

I have read on automotive forums of people using rags pulled around the flywfeel to drag the bits up.
Obviously cant use a magnet on alloy.

Was thinking bore scope and wire tool with very tacky mastic on the end if I can see it.

Really dont want to have to pull the engine I have just rebuilt and installed if at all possible.

Thanks

Ron

 

[alldodge]

As GA mentioned in post 15
https://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...ng-in-flywheel

Remove the cover

If it cannot be seen, bump the starter without letting motor start, and see if it will rotate to where you can get at it. If no go, motor has to come out

 

[Rake722]

Ok I’m on this in a day or two. The thought of pulling the motor at this stage makes me want to burn the boat. But I have too much invested in it.

 

[GA_Boater]

If you have a bore scope, stick it behind the flywheel, toward the stern, and look. The nose is under the coupler on the bottom of the flywheel housing. There is no other place for it to go.