1963 40 HP Big Twin Troubles.

[Monterey Dreams]

Re: 1963 40 HP Big Twin Troubles.

Thanks for checking in Bill,
any you too KFA
I'll see you both back in the drydock.

 

[Mas]

Re: 1963 40 HP Big Twin Troubles.

Great job!

Make sure you keep the battery charged because somebody removed your "decompression lever"...that motor will tear out your shoulder if you try to "pull start" it!

Good Luck,

Mas

 

[Monterey Dreams]

Re: 1963 40 HP Big Twin Troubles.

Thank you for stopping by Mas.

I am going to buy another battery before I hit the water. I am very much afraid of not having any juice out in the middle of nowhere.
My friend Bill, told me that that “head” does not belong to my era motor, and that the PO probably did it to keep the motor alive. Maybe that is why it is not present.
Thanks for your time. I appreciate it.
Dave

 

[Monterey Dreams]

Re: 1963 40 HP Big Twin Troubles.

Hi Guys;
I had a new problem last night. A friend of mine told me that I should start the motor periodically and let it run for a little while. So yesterday I fired it up, ran it about 10 min total in a drum. I ran it a little above idle. And I popped it in gear and still ran it a little above idle for a min or three. The whole time I was standing at the rear with a garden hose refilling the water that was being blown out.

Anyways motor ran good then died and would not start again after that.

The water jackets were hot. Not melt rubber hot but you could not keep your hand on it for long.

I thought water pump not working right. Not a huge amount of water coming out hole in back.
I broke down the lower unit, and impeller looked decent. (Rubber looks good and not broken or chewed fins). One fin was pointed the wrong direction from the rest. Also the fins kept the shape of the housing when removed. Should I replace?

Big question. There was NO impeller key in the water pump. Should there be? I could not see a gouge in the shaft for the key to fit although the impeller had a gouge where a key should go.

Shaft had a very little nub sticking out on one side down at the bottom (but it does not look large enough to me to hold the impeller).

Thank you
Dave

 

[Monterey Dreams]

Re: 1963 40 HP Big Twin Troubles.

 

[tx1961whaler]

Re: 1963 40 HP Big Twin Troubles.

Yes, the impeller has a key.

 

[Monterey Dreams]

Re: 1963 40 HP Big Twin Troubles.

Thanks for stopping by tx1961whaler with that answer.

Ok, should the shaft have a groove in it for the key? I only fixed a water pump one time on a 7.5 merc and I remember a groove in it.
Lastly what is the little nub on the shaft down where a key should fit?

Thanks guys
Dave

 

[Willyclay]

Re: 1963 40 HP Big Twin Troubles.

Lastly what is the little nub on the shaft down where a key should fit?Thanks guysDave

Sorry to hear about this setback! Any chance you can post a picture so we can also see the "little nub"? Have not seen any mention of a service manual for this motor. The link below will get you to a free online public library that has many manuals scanned and saved. While it is not a "factory" manual, the same one served me well with my RDSL-21 for many years including a complete overhaul.

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=393281

LOGIN as directed then drill down to: Small Engines, Marine/Boat Motors, Evinrude/Johnson, Outboard 40HP (1956-1964) and, finally, Condensed Service Data. Good luck!

 

[lindy46]

Re: 1963 40 HP Big Twin Troubles.

Shaft should have a hole, like a drilled hole, where the drive pin/key sets. The "nub" you mention, may be the pin - it isn't very long - just sticks out about 1/8". It may be worn down over 45+ years of use and may need replacing.

 

[Monterey Dreams]

Re: 1963 40 HP Big Twin Troubles.

Hi guys,
Thank you for your help. I am greatly appreciative of your knowledge and help.
Willyclay; thank you for the link to the manual, I am going there next. I have not bought the book yet (for the simple reason that I bought the manual for that other old motor…and you see how well that worked out. I just did not want to throw more money away on a motor that probably will not last the first day out. I have been using the manual from the big motor as a guide. I have found that the tech is very similar (same era and mfg) so I am hobbling my way through (and of course with you guys as my guides).
Lindy46; I went back out today and took another look at the motor (during daylight hours). You are correct, it is the pin. I was able to remove it fairly easily.(I was looking for the half-moon shaped one like in my old merc). I then went over to a friend of mine. He was a boat dealer back in the day so he remembers a little about this old motor. He told me that the pin is a little worn (like you suggested 40 plus years would do that) but he thinks it is ok. The impeller was fair not too bad but should be replaced, he told me to buy a new one since I already broke down the unit. He also said that since I ran the motor longer than I did the first day and it got to heat up (overheat?) He said that something might have come free and finally plugged somewhere vital (like carb). He told me to buy a carb kit, an impeller, and a fuel pump kit along with a new o-ring for the top of the shaft. Since we do not know when they were last done, they could have been ok at idle and then when I gave it a little throttle it died out. So that is where I stand today. He told me when he owned his shop they would suggest replacing those parts every year anyway. I ordered the parts and hopefully I did not damage the motor. I am a little apprehensive about the carbs. I always had problems with automotive carbs, I hope I can do the kit install without running to his house every day….
Two of the impeller arms were pointing the wrong way. He also told me I should clean the plate under the water pump. It has some rubber gunk (gasket maker or melted impeller) stuck to it. It looks like the PO gasketmakered under the bottom of the plate.
Have a great evening.
He also told me I should consider points and condensers but since it was running, I did not need to buy them today.
Dave

 

[lindy46]

Re: 1963 40 HP Big Twin Troubles.

The carb on that engine is easy to rebuild - much easier than an auto carb. If you get stuck, you can always get help here. Make sure that waterpump plate is clean, smooth and flat. No sealer is needed. Also, make sure the housing is clean and free of corrosion. You may just want to get a whole new water pump assembly - about $60 with impeller. It will also contain the drive pin.

 

[Monterey Dreams]

Re: 1963 40 HP Big Twin Troubles.

Hello lindy46,
Thank you greatly for stopping by again today. I will take photos next time I get out to the boat for you guys to see. The plate is actually very clean and shiny. There is just a few spots where a little gasket maker oozed up through a drilled hole in the plate. And I already picked it off. I still was going to clean it with a solvent again. The housing does not have any rust or corrosion at all. When I broke down the motor the water pump housing was completely black with soot on the outside only (My hands were black in an instant [next time I wear gloves] by the way). I cleaned the gunk off and the housing looks good (both inside and out). I don?t think I need to replace it at this point.
The gears around the top of the prop shaft (where the black o-ring sits) was dry and clean. Should I put some sort of grease or lube on it before I put the thing back together, what kind?
Lastly, my friend told me to take the L.U. of in a gear (I used reverse); he said it would be easier than trying to put it back together in neutral. When I get ready to put it together, do I push the shift shaft on the LU down or pull it up to be in reverse gear for reassembly?
Thank you all for your assistance. I am very grateful to you all.
Dave
P.S. you give me hope for the carb, I am going to do it myself....

 

[lindy46]

Re: 1963 40 HP Big Twin Troubles.

The gears around the top of the prop shaft (where the black o-ring sits) was dry and clean. Should I put some sort of grease or lube on it before I put the thing back together, what kind?
Lastly, my friend told me to take the L.U. of in a gear (I used reverse); he said it would be easier than trying to put it back together in neutral. When I get ready to put it together, do I push the shift shaft on the LU down or pull it up to be in reverse gear for reassembly?
Thank you all for your assistance. I am very grateful to you all.
Dave
P.S. you give me hope for the carb, I am going to do it myself....

Do you mean the splines at the top of the driveshaft? Yes, they should be lightly greased (not the top of the shaft) and the O-ring re-installled.

Push the shift rod down for reverse. Move the shift lever to foward. Once the lower is back in place, slowly move the shift lever to reverse and guide the coupler over the end of the lower shift rod. Make sure the recess in the top of the lower shift rod lines up with the bolt hole in coupler, and replace the bolt.

 

[Monterey Dreams]

Re: 1963 40 HP Big Twin Troubles.

Hi lindy46,

Thank you sir for your advice again. I was talking about the splines. They had no grease at all. Thank you also for the information about the lower unit. I have been reading around here and it sounds like a pain to put the LU back on the motor. I hope I can do it tomorrow with your directions, when I go back out to the boat.
Bill, Gus, and all my other iboats friends, sorry I have not been around much the last week. Work has really picked up and I have very little time for myself (or the boat) these last few weeks. I got the parts yesterday, so wish me luck tomorrow.
Dave

 

[Willyclay]

Re: 1963 40 HP Big Twin Troubles.

Dave, I know you will "Be Prepared" so here's hoping for good luck! Bill

 

[Monterey Dreams]

Re: 1963 40 HP Big Twin Troubles.

Hi Guys
Hey Bill, thankx for the good will, I needed it today,
Not much to report today. I had the four horsemen of the apocalypse visit me today. I left my house and the weather was sunny. As I got to the boat, it rained on and off all day. Gusts of high wind tried to rip the tarps off (from above my head I had rigged a small shelter so I could work on the boat)…when it began to pour and the wind whipping around my head (I gave up and went inside to watch Frozen Planet on the discovery channel. I took the fuel pump off and installed the kit. The rubber was ok but i changed it all anyway, but one of the springs was badly rusted. (I changed it for a new one). I also put the new fuel filter and the bowl gasket, along with that hidden figure 8 gasket.). I cleaned the water pump plate (until it shined) and installed the new impeller. I got the lower unit mounted back on the motor (boy was that a royal pain)! I found an easy way to install the impeller, after fighting with it, for a while, I know that it was supposed to go in clockwise so I slid the impeller down onto the key and turned the prop so that the shaft spun clockwise moving the impeller clockwise also of course. Then while turning the prop I sliped the water pump top half down onto the impeller and put in the screws. The worst part about reinstalling the LU was getting the copper tubes to slide into the fittings on the impeller housing. Took probably an hour laying in the mud maneuvering the shaft, and tubes and shift shaft to all mate to each other.
I also put new gear oil in just to be sure and I put a little sticky grease on the splines.
The shift shaft appears to be connected and I can see the rod move up and down when I move the lever.
I took my battery to Napa for a quick charge, and just as I got the 55 gal drum under the motor again and filled, the rain decided that I should not try firing her today so it poured horrible. At that point I started the siphon to empty the drum, covered my boat and went inside.

Onto the carburetor…I got to tell you I am a little apprehensive about it. I was going to change the kit for it also but I could not see how to even take the carb off. One of the bolts is hidden under a lot of things (thermostat or choke?) do I have to remove all of this peripheral stuff? I could not figure out how to remove the little metal rods they look like they are riveted on by some snap ring or something.
I printed willyclays service manual so I was not flying totally blind today.
Have a great night guys.
Dave

 

[Monterey Dreams]

Re: 1963 40 HP Big Twin Troubles.

E&J Gurus;

Got the motor running again today. You know this thing really has me flummoxed. I took the little window off again today and looked at my shift shaft. It seems like every now and again it gets stuck and will not go into reverse very well. It did it while I was watching through the window. The shaft bends out instead of going up and down. If I shift to forward again or 3 times or put a little pressure on the prop it will then drop down into reverse with ease. this happens one in a while.
I hooked up the big gas tank I had cleaned up early in the rebuild. Everybody I know has been telling me that running the motor from the gas can has been causing some if not all of problems. Today I mounted the tank on the deck, and then hooked up all the hoses. When I squeeze the bulb it squirts out the fuel as nice as you would want (I tested this) by removing the hose from the fuel pump and squirting the gas out onto the stree….er, into a government approved container! Using the bulb.
I also bypassed the start/safety (to test) by grounding out the little white wire.
The engine fired right up and ran strong although (It did lope a lot more than the last time I boated with it) for 10 min in the bbl. As I was standing at the back looking at the motor and filling the water blown out of the bbl with the hose I watched the glass fuel bowl on the fuel pump. The bowl was not staying full. It would squirt in in dribs and drabs. Like the pump was not keeping up with the draw. I have rebuilt the fuel pump not too long ago with new gaskets and diaphragm. By the time I got the motor turned off the bowl was full again!
The motor started backfiring out the compression relief valves I think. A loud pop followed by a hiss. It did this a lot. I ran to turn off the key and the motor would not shut off. I disconnected the battery and the motor would not shut off. I pulled the throttle all the way back down to idle and it eventually starved and died.
Then again it would not start. This is becoming its habit. Run good after the initial start. Turn off and will not start again.
What should I try next? Sorry for long post wanted to give details.
Dave