Evinrude 85293r Wireing Control Box

[racerone]

Have you done the ----ohm test------ on the solenoids, yes or no ?----If no , I suggest you follow tips and guidance offered here.

 

[F_R]

I did the test right this morning, I disconnected the wires and attached leads to them connecting them to my battery in the boat. When I attached the green wire I got neutral when I attached the blue wire It didn't go into reverse it stayed in neutral.

But did you connect to BOTH green and blue at the same time? If you did, and it did not go into reverse, you have a problem in the lower unit. Could be as simple as wrong or dirty or low oil. Or as serious as a sticking or worn shift piston in the oil pump.

 

[DoingTheBestICan]

Yes I connected both green and blue wires to the + of the battery and it still acted as if it was in neutral.I also just checked the ohms. On the green wire I got 7 and on the blue wire absolutely nothing .

 

[F_R]

OK, there is something wrong with the blue wire or it's related solenoid. Time to remove the lower unit for a looksee.

 

[DoingTheBestICan]

Ok, I will start digging into it to see what I can find.

 

[racerone]

Now we are making / taking steps forward.----The ohm test revealed that you possibly have a broken wire.----Easy fix in my opinion

 

[DoingTheBestICan]

I got the lower unit off today. Now that I have it off and on the bench what am I looking for?

 

[F_R]

Damage to the cable/wires leading down to the LU. Damage to the solenoids. Damage to the wire connections to the solenoids. Has anybody been messing with the solenoids or solenoid cover?

But we seem to be going in circles.

Did you check the oil?
Did you check the resistance (Ohms) of the solenoids?

Remember, the wires and solenoids are the end of the line, as far as the electric part goes. From there on, it is all hydraulic shift, using the gearcase oil as hydraulic fluid.

If the solenoids check out ok, and the oil is good, then it looks like you'll be going inside. Might not be a job you want to tackle?

 

[DoingTheBestICan]

I believe I found my issue. As soon as I opened the case where the solenoids are I noticed a blue wire just hanging.Pic attached shows exactly what i saw. I pulled the solenoids out and cleaned it up a bit and soldered the wire back to the solenoid. There was enough wire on the solenoid that it was easy to attach too. I tested with my meter and got 5 ohms on each wire. I put everything back together and hopefully I got it back together right. I will get it back on the boat tomorrow and test.

 

[DoingTheBestICan]

Whats the trick for getting the wire from the lower unit back up to hookup? Feed a line down from the top and wrap it around the wire and pull it through?

 

[racerone]

A little late to ask now.-----Most of us used a special wire with those knife connecters.-----Pull it down.---Disconnect.----Reconnect and pull the wires up on installation !

 

[DoingTheBestICan]

I got the boat out today and tested the engine. reverse, neutral and forward works just fine now. I did end up replacing the solenoid for the reverse and everything works good as far as that goes. My one issue left is the engine will not turn off by the key. I replaced the diode in the control box with a new one but it still doesn't work. Could it be the key ignition?

 

[F_R]

Possible, but not likely. The blocking diode is the usual culprit. But you say that didn't help. Try disconnecting the blocking diode and see what happens.

EDIT: If it isn't the blocking diode, my money is on a wiring error somewhere. And yes a slim chance, the key switch. Slim chance.

 

[F_R]

Thinking on it a tad more, there probably is an improper 12V feed to the ignition amplifier, back at the motor. i suppose it could be a shorted clipper circuit---if it still has one.

 

[DoingTheBestICan]

What should be wired to the diode? I have a lead going to the ignition then the purple and purple and green from the engine all tied into the purple on the on the diode then the purple and green from the diode going to the shift switch.

 

[F_R]

???? It goes exactly as shown on the diagram shown in post #9.

 

[DoingTheBestICan]

I haven't messed with the diode or done any test yet. Hopefully if work doesn't get in the way I can do it this weekend. I just had a thought. The black wire the grounding lead was/is screwed into the housing of the controls box. Just thinking, but if the grounding isn't grounded correctly could it cause it not to shut off with the key? I did order an OMC ignition for my motor. It looks like the person that had it before me possibly put the wrong ignition or car ignition in the control box.

 

[DoingTheBestICan]

I tested the motor again yesterday. Everything checks out good. I have good readings on my meter. I sill have all 3 forward,neutral and reverse. The diode seems to be wires correctly,I checked the grounding at the controls and it was good. Just not sure why the engine would not be shutting off. Any other ideas to solve this?