CONVERTING CLOSED BOW, TO OPEN BOW

[jamminmaz]

Re: CONVERTING CLOSED BOW, TO OPEN BOW

speaking of instruments, the tack only has two wires. one that goes to the control box, and a black thats hooked up to nothing.<br /><br />I cant find the thread, but i remember someone saying something like "always wet sand to see how she looks before you think of painting." i guess to get the oxidation off, to see if you even need to paint of not...<br /><br />wet sand with what grit?<br /><br />Those are sweet old gauges huh??

 

[Tinkerer]

Re: CONVERTING CLOSED BOW, TO OPEN BOW

Originally posted by jamminmaz:<br /> speaking of instruments, the tack only has two wires. one that goes to the control box, and a black thats hooked up to nothing.<br /><br />I cant find the thread, but i remember someone saying something like "always wet sand to see how she looks before you think of painting." i guess to get the oxidation off, to see if you even need to paint of not...<br /><br />wet sand with what grit?<br /><br />Those are sweet old gauges huh??

Yes, they are very nice gauges and I'm hoping you'll chop the guts out of your bow and send them to me along with the bow fittings. But, if not ...<br /><br />I've got a thread going on paint or not at http://www.iboats.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=26;t=002529 <br /><br />To see how good your current finish can be:<br /><br />Pick a test point as far out of view as possible and try this to revive your gelcoat. Mix some standard auto wash or truck wash in a bucket and put a sponge in it. Wash the test area with the sponge and then hose it off, to remove any grit that might be coarser than the grit you'll be using. Dab the sponge with the auto / truck wash over the test area to wet and lubricate it. Assuming you're working on a fairly flat surface, wrap 1200 grit wet and dry paper around a sanding block and then dip it into the bucket. Otherwise use a large sheet under your hand with a kitchen sponge between your hand and the paper as that'll ensure the paper follows the countours and applies even pressure, which your hand won't. Then sand the test area. Keep it very wet with dabs from the sponge. This helps to carry the grit and removed material away so they're not grinding into the new surface. Don't get carried away or you'll go through the gelcoat. Rub in straight lines from the front to back of the boat, not circles. Straight means straight, not the curve most people think is straight when they're swinging their arm through an arc. Seeing water with the gelcoat colour in it as you sand is normal as you're removing the top surface. Flush it with clean water after a very short bit of rubbing (like 5 seconds), then dry it and see if it needs more sanding. You can't tell when it's wet as the water film makes it impossible to know what it's really like. Conversely, when it's wet it'll give you a good idea of the best it'll ever look after it's finished. After the first few short goes you'll have some idea of how long it's safe to sand without going through the gelcoat. When you're happy you have a good base colour, cut it with an auto or fibreglass cutter or cut and polish in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions as this is a lighter cut than the sandpaper. Then apply an auto or fibreglass polish. <br /><br />The work you've just done is a tedious PITA (Pain In The A...) but it's about 10% of the work you need to do to prep the surface for a halfway decent paint job.

 

[Twidget]

Re: CONVERTING CLOSED BOW, TO OPEN BOW

Meguillars makes a good kit for removing oxidation from fiberglass. I got one at Academy to use on my boats, its a 3 step system and works great, if you use a buffer.<br /><br />Also, I used vertglass with good luck on another boat. web page I used a buffer with the first step of the system. I had a boat with what I thought was a gray strip, it was blue when I finished. The hull also shined like new. I only had the boat one season after I did this, so I dont know how well it holds up.<br /><br />That is a good looking boat. Keep us updated on the restoration progress.

 

[Mark42]

Re: CONVERTING CLOSED BOW, TO OPEN BOW

MARK42--If i do repaint, would it be a good idea from a resale value standpoint to stick with the red, or can I go to a completely differnt color??<br />

I don't know for sure, but if collectable boats are anything like cars, keeping the original color is better than changing it. Besides, red is a good color!<br /><br />Regarding the rub rail: The black insert is vinyl and easily removed and replaced. I think a roll of 50ft was $24 and comes in a few standard sizes. Yours looks like what I have on my boat. I used the TACO (Taco Metals)product:<br />

<br /><br />The aluminum part is more expensive so it is a good idea to protect what you have from damage. After pulling out the old vinyl (much easier on a hot sunny day) the screw heads are exposed. (all the screws on mine were 1/2 turn loose). You can take off the aluminum to straighten any bends and file small nicks and gouges. Avoid prying on it because it will bend. Where it may have been impacted you will have to make an L shaped tool to fit in and pry the lip back out. But go easy, this stuff is soft. I also patched in about 15" of new aluminum where mine was too badly damaged to fix. Although the aluminum stock is an exact size/shape match, it is annodized and the original is silver painted so there is a subtle color mis-match.<br /><br />Try to polish the gel coat before painting it. If the old gel coat can be polished it will save you mucho $$$ and keep it original. Do a search on "polishing gelcoat" in this forum to find out what others have tried. Yours does not look like it cant be brought back to shine.<br /><br />Good luck.<br /><br />EDIT:<br /><br />Here is a link to some pics of my boat being worked on. Wish I had documented it more.<br /> Before <br /><br />....<br /> Restoring

 

[jamminmaz]

Re: CONVERTING CLOSED BOW, TO OPEN BOW

Nice, Thank you all again for your help, and I will most definately keep you posted.<br /><br />I will probably start a new thread, but I'll refer it in this one.<br /><br />As fate and the power of the Jinx would have it, i am ready to start today, and the 64 degree blue skies have turn grey windy and cold. Never fails. If you buy a sailboat it will be dead calm, but buy a power boat and it will be a windy summer!!<br /><br />Thanks again guys.

 

[jimmythekid]

Re: CONVERTING CLOSED BOW, TO OPEN BOW

yeah with thru the roof prices on Petrol

 

[Realgun]

Re: CONVERTING CLOSED BOW, TO OPEN BOW

I like the boat the way it sits. Don't cut the boat. If you want a Bowrider then buy another bowrider boat, please. Try polishing the gelcoat,<br /> This Article By mark42<br /> This Thread in which I found that artice---Mark42 <br /><br />If you cannot tell I like Marks boat.

 

[jamminmaz]

Re: CONVERTING CLOSED BOW, TO OPEN BOW

I like Marks boat too. I am definately NOT going to cut her up, thanks to the help and suggestions of all of you in the forum. You know I tripped and fell into that boat with 100hp johnson that was rebuilt 5 seasons ago, for $1000 bucks? I had no idea i would ever get so much interest and compliments!! I have it naked now, and am ready to recarpet, but now it is raining, but anyways, i will keep you guys posted. I am going to try the refinish first, before thinking about paint, to see if save like 200 hours of my life.<br /><br />You guys rock,<br />JB

 

[steve n carol]

Re: CONVERTING CLOSED BOW, TO OPEN BOW

Good not to cut it up. Like they all said, go and buy a bowrider. in fact get one w/o an engine and you can swap your engine back and forth! OR, strap on a couple of patio chairs and give your bud's a ride of their lives! of course then you would have a patio barge.<br />I have a bowrider. I wish It was a cabin cruiser...sl

 

[jamminmaz]

Re: CONVERTING CLOSED BOW, TO OPEN BOW

Hey good idea!<br /><br />Quick question for MARK42 if you are out there this fine Friday morn. I printed your work on "restoring old gel coat." When you say scrub with the Brillo, are you talking about the steel wool type stuff, or the green fiberous pads (3M type)?<br />I can start another thread if need be, or search better, but i rememer in one of your threads you said that took apart and cleaned the control box on you boat. Mine is like yours only a bit older, and it is to the point where you have to wiggle it juuuuuuust right to get it to know it is neutral, to then start it. It only started happening on the last trip of the summer, so i think it is just a maintenance thing. I am decent with electroninc stuff, but i was wondering if this was fairly easy to do, or is one of those things where springs go flying everywhere when you take it apart, and then you have like 4 extra peices when you put it back together?<br />Thanks again,<br />JB

 

[jamminmaz]

Re: CONVERTING CLOSED BOW, TO OPEN BOW

Oh I forgot one thing. I went to Harbor Freight .com, and found a 7" polisher sander like you mentioned in your article for 24.99! If you have a walk in store, you dont have to pay shipping. At the store it is 49.99, but if you print the add off the internet site, the walk in stores will honor the price.

 

[Mark42]

Re: CONVERTING CLOSED BOW, TO OPEN BOW

Jaminmaz,<br /><br />The pad I used was called Scotch Brite. It's a green plastic fiberous pad. Takes a bit of elbow grease to get things cleaned up, but I think it is much safer than using sand paper and easier than wet sand paper because it conforms to the shape of the boat better. <br /><br />Good to hear you got the cheap price. Remember it's not heavy duty. Mine makes a ton of noise from the gear drive but held up just fine.<br /><br />The control box is not hard to do. Just have a nice clean area to work in. The only part where a spring can fly out (and it did on me) is the spring that presses a ball bearing against the cam for the detents. When you go to re-install in, remove the bolt/plug in the tube it rides in and put it in there. Don't try to put it in the way it flies out. It's one of the very last parts you get to. I think the OMC tripple guard grease is the right stuff to put it back together with. It's amazing how hard old grease can get, and now nice it works clean with fresh lube. Don't foget to check all the electric connections and put on the liquid electric tape where it may have come off.<br /><br />Sounds like you have a bit of work ahead of you. Keep us posted!<br /><br />Mark<br /><br />EDIT:<br /><br />Almost forgot this: After all housing is painted and nice and clean, be very careful with OMC Trippleguard grease because the blue color in it stains paint. If you get some on the painted surface wipe it off quick.<br /><br />Mark.

 

[jamminmaz]

Re: CONVERTING CLOSED BOW, TO OPEN BOW

Thank you for your reply. I am glad I asked, for some reason i had the steel wool pads in mind. That could have ben bad news!<br /><br />Should i just re grease it, or would it be good to spray it out with some carb cleaner or something first? <br /><br />I'll deifinately keep you posted, with some before and after pics.

 

[Mark42]

Re: CONVERTING CLOSED BOW, TO OPEN BOW

Try some spray carb cleaner or degreaser. If you are going to paint it you should remove all the parts and electricals, clean with degreaser, wash with soapy water, dry and then spray with a nice epoxy paint in spray cans. Note that epoxy in spray takes reeeeeeaaaaaaalllllllllllly long to set. Like 10 or more hours. I let mine set 24 hours before handling. Follow directions closely, most do not recommend primer. <br /><br />I noticed that the cable anchor "barrel" on my cables housing fit a little loosely in the recieving part of the control box. I cut two pieces of scrap innertube to glue on the cable barrel end and it fit snug. This eliminated any play caused by the whole cable moving when the control lever is moved. <br /><br />Have fun! <br /><br />Mark

 

[jamminmaz]

Re: CONVERTING CLOSED BOW, TO OPEN BOW

Alright, she is naked, got off the windshield and all the trimmings. I'll have new pics by saturday. MARK42's gelcoat restoration really does work!! Now i am considering taking off the motor, flipping it upside down in the neighbors grass and working on the bottom too. I must say i scared as hell to pull the motor and go through with that, but there is now way to get to the sides or bottom on the trailer (see pics).<br /><br />Just thinking outloud, and gonna sleep on it a couple days. I'll have more pics soon....

 

[jamminmaz]

Re: CONVERTING CLOSED BOW, TO OPEN BOW

Just wanted to update incase anyone else is doing this right now; be thorough, but not too crazy with the scotch bright pads and comet. I got a little carried away with pressure, and have some permanent scrub marks from it. MARK42 is right though, the shine makes it about 300% better.

 

[Mark42]

Re: CONVERTING CLOSED BOW, TO OPEN BOW

Jam,<br /><br />Sorry to hear you have a snag or two. None of those marks should be permenant. Try some fine wet sanding paper to get rid of them. Or go over them again with the polisher and rubbing compound. <br /><br />I'm sure you can clean them up, might require a lot of time though.<br /><br />Gel coat hardness and depth varies from one manufacturer to another, and varies with the age and amount of UV it has been exposed to. There were some areas of my boat that would not come up glossy with the polisher. When I went back to heavy abrasive action with the scrub pads and Comet, more bad gel coat came off. Then the polisher brought it back to shiny. This was in the splashwell. So things can vary from one area to another and from one session to another depending on how well your feeling your "Wheaties".<br /><br />Also, other members have posted details in this and other posts on how to wet sand the gel coat. It may be that some areas of your boat will do better with sanding rather than scrubbing. No rules here, ya gotta experiment. But that is some of the fun of working on old boats.<br /><br />Let us know when you have some new photos.<br /><br />Good luck!<br /><br />Mark.

 

[jamminmaz]

Re: CONVERTING CLOSED BOW, TO OPEN BOW

Cool, that's good news, ill try to fix up some of those marks. It is definately worth it to try this procedure for those of you who are torn between painting, and seeing if there is still life in the gel. The nose, as you can see in one the 'cutting the bow?' questions before it was wet looked like a chalkboard, and now you can read the Comet label off the reflection!!!<br /><br />Plus it feels good to get out there and work on your own boat. Its the best therapy other than actually using the boat.<br />P.S. It is worth the effort to take off EVERYTHING from the top of the boat, it makes the buffing a million times easier. Dont know how i am going to get anything done on the hull though....<br /><br />Thanks again fellas

 

[jamminmaz]

Re: CONVERTING CLOSED BOW, TO OPEN BOW

Hey Fellas!!!<br /><br />Long time no see!!!<br /><br />After my last post I closed on a house, and me and the wife have been working on it instead of the boat.<br /><br />The time is near though, and the boat is looking pretty good. Saturday I am doing electrical and hardware, and then it will be back to original only with a new interior. The thread will continue with bench seats, porting the prop, and maybe a swim platform eventually, but I just wanted to let you guys know I still exist.<br /><br />I'll get some pics on saturday once she is lake ready.....<br /><br />Missed ya!

 

[tengals123]

Re: CONVERTING CLOSED BOW, TO OPEN BOW

welcome back!<br /><br />cheers