Help In Restoring An Old Wood Dinghy

[IraRat]

Re: Help In Restoring An Old Wood Dinghy

Have to post again because there's a max of 6 images per post here:

Here is a photo for my next question. Notice the fiberglassing:

After stripping the paint, I see that the seams of the boat are exposing this fiberglass taping (those little dots)--along the edges and in the center of the boat, where the two pieces of the hull meet.

Am I screwed? The last thing I want to do is fiberglassing, so what's my next step prior to finishing off the transom and painting?

 

[IraRat]

Re: Help In Restoring An Old Wood Dinghy

Well, interior is just about all painted. Gonna give the floor another coat or two:

Found this great oil and water based stuff from Wal-Mart for just 14 bucks a GALLON. Don't know how it can be both, but considering it's meant for exterior use, and it went on so great, I'm a happy camper:

I want to order oar locks today, but I'm confused. Look at these:

SeaSense Oarlock Horns: Fishing & Marine : Walmart.com

The holes in my mounts are around 5/8", but I haven't taken a measurement of the depth of the block/piece of wood yet. See photo above for the position of these 4 oar mounts. Wooden blocks with metal plates with holes at the top.

Is the oarlock supposed to extend below the depth of the block, so you can kind of cotter-pin it so it never pulls up and out and falls into the water? Also, does it make sense where these mounts are positioned?

I've been in plenty of row boats in my youth, so it seems strange that the mounts are so fore and aft of the bench. Am I remembering it all wrong?

 

[Teamster]

Re: Help In Restoring An Old Wood Dinghy

Yeah you'll want to cotter pin them in,.....

Placement looks about right to me,....

 

[IraRat]

Re: Help In Restoring An Old Wood Dinghy

Thanks. I also see that standard oarlocks these days have 1/2" stems, but they sell bushings that I can stick into the holes to convert 5/8 to 1/2.

Decided to wait on the oarlocks for now, since I'm also gonna have to buy oars OR just go with my trolling motor to start. Instead, I want to get the trailer properly converted first.

Found a great web site for parts, but I don't know where to even begin. I'm gonna drop them an email with questions. (eastmarine.com)

 

[Ned L]

Re: Help In Restoring An Old Wood Dinghy

Looking good! When it comes to rowlocks (also commonly called oarlocks) they come in a variety of styles. The ones you have picked out (pinned) are properly called "north river rowlocks". They do have a real advantage for 'basic level' rowers in that the oar is always held in the proper location and position, AND you cannot drop the rowlocks over the side. Experienced rowers (oarsmen) can tend to find them frustrating limiting. -They are good for beginners. If you were to NOT use the pins though the oars then the hole in the bottom can be used to attach a short length of chain or cordage to that would extend below the wooden mounting block with some sort of retainer clip. This allows you to lift the rowlock up out of the socket and drop it down inside the boat (but prevents it from being accidently dropped in the water).
It looks like whoever built your dinghy did a pretty nice job, so I would assume they did a decent job of locating the mounting blocks for the rowlock sockets. The forward rowing station would be used only when there are two people aboard the boat. The passenger would sit on the stern seat, and the oarsman would sit up forward.
The fiberglass taping that you pointed out is what holds the boat together and looks to be in good shape.

 

[IraRat]

Re: Help In Restoring An Old Wood Dinghy

But by myself, don't I still sit on the forward bench, facing stern, and pull my oars for thrust? (Pushing the oars always rubbed me the wrong way.) I can't sit on the rear bench and face stern. In this scenario, forward bench facing stern, which blocks do I use?

And BTW--this was originally a West Marine boat. I removed the logo in the early stages, but was surprised that I couldn't find a VIN anywhere on it.

Anyway, on to the trailer:

I have to extend the towing bar 4', but I don't want to get into the expense of having someone weld it, because I don't know to do it myself how nor own the needed equipment. (One day, I'll sit down and write how horrible the past 3 years have been to me financially and work-wise.) In addition, South Florida stinks for suppliers of stuff like this, rectangular steel tube, and I would have to order off the internet. (metalsdepot.com is great for this stuff, but with shipping, we're talking $$$.)

So my dilemma is cost, finding the EXACT size tube needed for inserting into the existing tow bar, and bolting in several spots. I would use an 8' length of new tube, because the existing bar allows me to insert like 5' of new tube. I would insert 4' in, leaving me my extra 4' out.

As you can see, the way the lip of the bar is flanged up at the bottom, we're not talking critical measurements:

I understand that the strength of this new tubing might not match the existing bar, but since I'm so under the trailer's weight capacity of like 900 lbs., I can't imagine it being that much of a structural issue, especially for short distance towing. (Of course, the smaller width of this tubing would force me to use washers to properly mount the 2 1/2" coupler.)

So then I was thinking:

Can't I do this with a laminate of lumber, instead of steel tubing? I would use steel bushings/inserts where it's bolted across the existing tow bar. In other words, the bolts wouldn't run through the raw drilled wood, but the bushings inserted into those holes.

My internal dimensions...the dimensions of the opening...are about 2 3/16" by 1 5/8", which means I would look for lumber combinations/pairings which bring me to near this, and then sanded down if necessary for a snug fit. I'd use a good wood preservative, make sure she's always well protected, and voila.

This way would be a hell of a lot cheaper, easier, and FASTER for me than going with steel. (I would start on it tomorrow!) And I'm not at all concerned about legal requirements, because FL is real laid back when it comes to this stuff.

I know it would be damn strong and safe--but is it nuts?

 

[GWPSR]

Re: Help In Restoring An Old Wood Dinghy

I'm not sure it would be safe. Asking a piece of 2x2" lumber 4 feet long to be able to withstand the stresses of even smooth road travel with that much weight on the end of it is a lot. If you should blow a tire or another motorist should tap the trailer, or worse, rear-end it, this thing would become a loose missile headed into the other lane.

Use metal. Check scrap yards. There must be something more suitable available.

 

[IraRat]

Re: Help In Restoring An Old Wood Dinghy

Okay--but my confusion on modifying my trailer continues in other ways too.

Below is an image of a Harbor Freight boat trailer which I labeled with "part numbers."

Parts 1 and 3 seem to be the same item, though different lengths. Since this boat is so small, and you see the tiny keel of my boat in photo(s) above, can't I use the smaller #1 roller for both--with different bracket heights?

Part 2 is a winch post which holds the front roller, and of course a winch. I see the trailer parts web site has a 24" long one for 30 bucks.

Based on the example image above, I guess I would mount this to my EXISTING tow bar, and not the extension. But I can't envision in my head right now where the winch goes! (Wait, you'll be old one day too!)

Now for #4--the bunk boards and brackets. Seems simple enough to make my own carpeted boards, and to pick up suitable brackets at HD or Lowes. But look at the image above--shouldn't these boards slant INWARD at all, and doesn't it look like the hardware will scrape the crap out of your boat?

What am I missing?

 

[IraRat]

Re: Help In Restoring An Old Wood Dinghy

Okay--time for me to drive both all of you AND my wife crazy.

I see that I need TWO bow rollers (one is hidden in the image above behind the bunk boards, in the stern), and a stop roller. Here is the order I'm ready to place with easternmarine.com tomorrow or so, if my wife says I can and if I'm sure I'm ordering the right stuff:

They're all 4" long rollers, but the LAST item listed is the stop roller, which I didn't list a bracket for yet. As a matter of fact, I'm now thinking I don't even NEED a roller here. I think they sell a simple rubber V-stop which bolts onto the winch post, and doesn't roll or anything, so you don't need all those additional parts!

 

[IraRat]

Re: Help In Restoring An Old Wood Dinghy

Okay--time for me to drive both all of you AND my wife crazy.

I see that I need TWO bow rollers (one is hidden in the image above behind the bunk boards, in the stern), and a stop roller. Here is the order I'm ready to place with easternmarine.com tomorrow or so, if my wife says I can and if I'm sure I'm ordering the right stuff:

They're all 4" long rollers, but the LAST item listed is the stop roller, which I didn't list a bracket for yet. As a matter of fact, I'm now thinking I don't even NEED a roller here. I think they sell a simple rubber V-stop which bolts onto the winch arm, and doesn't roll or anything, so you don't need all those additional parts!

EDIT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I just realized I have a SQUARE BOW!!! So what DO I need here, if anything?

 

[Dirt_Farmer]

Re: Help In Restoring An Old Wood Dinghy

For the lightweight dinghy I think you are going over kill on the trailer. Look at some simple jetski trailers for ideas, they are more the size you need. Just some carpeted bunks for the boat to slide on and a winch post and boat stop at the front.

2006 EZ Loaded Jet Ski Trailer

Good luck, Jeff

 

[IraRat]

Re: Help In Restoring An Old Wood Dinghy

Thanks, Jeff. Makes sense.

What I can't find are those brackets for the bunks to be angled like that. I assume I want brackets with multiple holes to secure the boards so I can fine-tune the height I want--but for the angle? I'm totally confused.

Or are the brackets simply straight, non-adjustable for slant, and I MOUNT them at an angle?

 

[Dirt_Farmer]

Re: Help In Restoring An Old Wood Dinghy

Seasense Bolster Bracket 10" 50081018 - iboats

You bolt or clamp the slotted piece around a crossmember and the bunk boards bolt to the top and are adjustable.

 

[Teamster]

Re: Help In Restoring An Old Wood Dinghy

Just a couple of thoughts,....

Did the boat come with a title or are you going to get one???

The reason I ask is in WI any "powered" boat needs to be registered, Even if it is a electric trolling motor,...

Non powered boats such as a canoe or rowboat don't need to be registered,....

I don't know how Florida handles boat registration,.....

 

[IraRat]

Re: Help In Restoring An Old Wood Dinghy

No title--and you're correct about the regs in FL. No registration needed with no power; needed with even just a trolling motor.

I haven't decided whether to go with just my motor and take a chance...just go with oars...OR have both--the trolling motor can be removed in a second. (So what are the regs for just HAVING a motor?)

I do believe though that I can apply for a title as SALVAGE, and since I have all my photos, maybe I'll have success with this route.

 

[GT1000000]

Re: Help In Restoring An Old Wood Dinghy

I haven't decided whether to go with just my motor and take a chance...just go with oars...OR have both--the trolling motor can be removed in a second. (So what are the regs for just HAVING a motor?)

I do believe though that I can apply for a title as SALVAGE, and since I have all my photos, maybe I'll have success with this route.

From the Florida DMV...Official Website Florida Department of Highway Safety and Motor Vehicles
When a vessel has been sold and the owner is no longer available to provide proof of ownership, how do I, as the purchaser, get information to contact the titled owner in order to obtain the certificate of title? Notify your local tax collector or license plate agency in writing stating the problem and provide the vessel's Florida registration number. The local tax collector or license plate agency may provide the name and address of the titled owner with the necessary instructions for transferring the ownership of the vessel into your name. However, some agencies do not provide ownership information for vessels to the public. Instead, as stated in DMV Procedure TL-07, they may provide the titled owner (by writing directly to the owner of record) with the purchaser's released contact information (name and address) and any necessary instructions. The owner then has the option to contact the purchaser to assist them. You may also contact the department to obtain ownership information for the vessel owner by completing a form HSMV 85054, Motor Vehicle/Vessel Records Request. The department's mailing address is shown at the top of this form.

What should the purchaser of a vessel do if the titled owner does not assist in obtaining the certificate of title or an executed bill of sale? A Florida court order would be required to issue a certificate of title in the purchaser’s name.



I only use a small trolling motor when I use my 12 foot vessel in the canal behind my house. Do I have to register my vessel? Yes, all vessels used on public waterways with any kind of motor must be titled and registered.

If you have a motor on board, most FWC officers will assume it is for the boat and ask you where your registration stickers are...

If you have any other questions, I would suggest you contact a local tag agency or the Florida DMV directly...
Their fines for any kind of Non-compliance or any broken rules can cost quite a huge chunk of change...better safe and keep your money in your pocket, than sorry and give it away to the government...

 

[IraRat]

Re: Help In Restoring An Old Wood Dinghy

I still can't wrap my head around the bunk board brackets that Jeff linked to:

Yes, I see the swivel/pivot point, but that only looks like an adjustment to straighten the toes in/toes out of the bunk boards. I still don't get:

I lay the channel part of this mount around the horizontal trailer members, correct? But how do I know that channel is wide enough? It doesn't give dimensions. And I HAVE to place them on the horizontal trailer members, correct, not the verticals? And simply bolt my 2 by 4s to the two holes shown in THAT section of the bracket?

And how do I know this bracket is giving me enough HEIGHT to clear? It looks like just a inch, although of course, the bunk board gives me more.

JEFF! HELP! I WANT TO ORDER!

 

[GWPSR]

Re: Help In Restoring An Old Wood Dinghy

That bracket mounts with the slotted channel somewhat vertically. The angle bracket on the end is horizontal. You use the long slots to adjust height, and can mount it at whichever angle allows your bunk to match the angle of your deadrise. Use two of these assemblies per bunk -- one near the rear, and one at the front.

Here's a shot of these on ezmobee's trailer:

 

[IraRat]

Re: Help In Restoring An Old Wood Dinghy

Ahhhh!!!

Thanks!!!

I needed that picture!!!

 

[IraRat]

Re: Help In Restoring An Old Wood Dinghy

Next stupid question:

Use bolts through the lumber to attach to bracket (bolt head facing boat surface), and then cover with carpet? Or just wood screws from the other side?

And for my boat, 6' long okay?