Re: I have the old (1961) cable system steering
This might benefit your efforts.
(From Glen-L Boat Building 101)
Drum Cable Steering
[FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman][FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]Cable steering has been around forever and earned a bad reputation, not without reason. This system operates through cable fastened to a pivoting arm on the rudder or outdrive (or outboard) and sent forward through pulleys to wrap around a drum fastened to the steering wheel. Properly set up, such a system is practical and reliable. Use clothesline rope, awning pulleys, or similar ill thought out replacements in the system and you're not only asking for trouble, you'll have it. [/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman][FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]The term "cable" refers to the flexible plastic coated steering cable or stainless steel 7 x 19 wire rope typically 5/32" or 5/16" in diameter. At aft terminals the cable is looped through eye straps securely fastened to the hull and held with clamps intended for cable steering systems. [/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman][FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]Pulleys or sheaves used in cable systems should be approximately 16 times the cable or wire diameter with a 2" minimum and may be fixed or pivoting types. The latter are common for smaller boats and special plastic/stainless steel with attaching eyes are available. Some "head scratching" must be used in planning so that the leads are fair and straight and the cable runs smoothly in the sheaves. Cable running in fixed sheaves must be aligned parallel to the sheave groove. A great stress is applied to the strap or base that attaches the pulley to the boat hull; bolts are preferable with long screws driven into solid wood satisfactory. [/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman][FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]Cables running between pivoting pulleys may tend to sag or not be in a precise straight line. Special cable guides with metal or plastic surfaces will take care of this problem although it is preferable these be minimal in number or better yet the system arranged so they are not required as they can abrade the cable over a period of time. [/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman][FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]A major problem occurs when cables are connected at the tiller; this terminology refers to a tiller on a rudder or the arm that pivots an outboard or outdrive. A straight arm projecting from a pivoting vertical shaft with cables attached as described in the foregoing will have slack in certain sectors of the turning arc. This cannot be tolerated. Special steering tension springs used at the tiller connection (see attachment) will eliminate the slack problem. [/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman][FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]The steerer with drum attached can be of two types, exposed or behind the dash. The exposed drum for the cable is in front of the dash and is primarily used on small hydroplanes or race class monoplanes. Usually only one coaming pulley sheave per side is required and the entire cable is exposed for easy inspection and maintenance. The tiller cable on either exposed or behind the dash types should be of equal length each side of the drum and wrapped 3 or 4 times around it in opposite directions; check to be sure turning the steering wheel rotates the motor in the proper direction. [/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman][FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]D[/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman][FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]rum cable steering is viable but ONLY when properly installed and maintained. Crude materials and sloppy installation and maintenance can cause steering failure that can result in serious consequences. DO IT RIGHT OR DON'T USE IT. [/FONT][/FONT]
