Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

Piece715

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

Motor.jpg


I plan on starting a new thread in the Evinrude section and see if one of the Guru's can help me out. But I always like to post in this thread too to keep all the info together.
 

Piece715

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

Hidef replied in my new motor thread... This is what he posted...

"The tan wire is a temp sensor and should set the warning horn off in the controls if the engine is overheating. As for the part that was caught between the shaft and water pump housing I have no idea where that would have come from."

I am waiting to see how it needs to be reconnected as the wire is just hanging free out the back of the motor

Here is a link to that thread... http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=548764
 

Piece715

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

Through some searching right now I found that the retaining triunnion is from the intake manifold and primer system.... Here is the diagram from the Evinrude site... It is #20...

convert.JPG... This doesn't seem good... Suggestions?! HELP :facepalm:
 

Piece715

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

Here is the diagram for the Seal, Gearcase, inner exhaust... It is #47... Guessing this should be replaced?!

convert2.JPG

While looking at this diagram I noticed the Anode #80. Now when the motor was painted this was not removed so it is covered in paint and clear. I'm guess that being covered in paint it no longer is able to do its job... do i need to replace this or since i only use in fresh water it'll be ok?!

Sorry about all the questions today just trying to wrap things up!
 

Todd4

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

I think you're right - someone hosed you on the last water pump rebuild. That loose retainer plate has been wearing for a long time. I'd replace the retaining plate and check for any other loose bolts. Your snapped bolt is probably corroded in and will probably be very difficult to remove. Drill the largest hole possible in the remaining bolt. Be carefull you don't snap off the easy-out - they are real hard to drill out. You may need to drill the entire bolt out (or have a shop drill it out) and replace with a thread insert. I'd also replace the exhaust gasket since you already have it pulled apart. As for the anode: remove it, scrape the paint off of it (paint remover?) sand the surface and reinstall it. You need anodes in fresh water too.

Sorry about your setbacks - at least you know you needed the new water pump impeller and that's done right now.

Todd
 

Piece715

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

I think you're right - someone hosed you on the last water pump rebuild. That loose retainer plate has been wearing for a long time. I'd replace the retaining plate and check for any other loose bolts. Your snapped bolt is probably corroded in and will probably be very difficult to remove. Drill the largest hole possible in the remaining bolt. Be carefull you don't snap off the easy-out - they are real hard to drill out. You may need to drill the entire bolt out (or have a shop drill it out) and replace with a thread insert. I'd also replace the exhaust gasket since you already have it pulled apart. As for the anode: remove it, scrape the paint off of it (paint remover?) sand the surface and reinstall it. You need anodes in fresh water too.

Sorry about your setbacks - at least you know you needed the new water pump impeller and that's done right now.

Todd

It's times like these I wanna walk back into the shop and be like sooooo ya know that impeller u replaced for me; well went into the lower unit and the retaining triunnion for the throttle cables was stuck in the water pump shaft and was worn down like crazy at least a solid 20 hours of run time worth. The funny thing is that the motor has been on an engine stand ever since u worked on it! BOOM! But you live and u learn and life goes on... besides I GOT TO GET THIS THING ON THE WATER!

Still haven't went and picked up an easy out yet but ill attempt it before finding a machine shop. BTW the bolt I need is number 76 in post #504... went to Evinrude site to price.. $40 :eek::facepalm::eek:... FOR ONE BOLT!!! At least the exhaust gasket is more manageable at 8 bucks. And DEF not going through manufacturers site... well if I can manage not to

I figured that's what i needed to do to the anode. As always thanks for the info Todd!

Once of these days these little set backs will stop and ill be sitting listening to tunes having a tasty beverage in the middle of large body of H2O! :rolleyes: ahhhh
 

Piece715

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

BTW the bolt I need is number 76 in post #504... went to Evinrude site to price.. $40 :eek::facepalm::eek:... FOR ONE BOLT!!! At least the exhaust gasket is more manageable at 8 bucks. And DEF not going through manufacturers site... well if I can manage not to

Ok was again looking at the parts. My motor has a 20inch shaft... which would make it a "long" shaft motor I'm thinking as standard in an Evinrude would be 15". If this is the case then the bolt is only $21 not $40. So am i correct in my thinking that anything over the 15" shaft length is considered a "long" model?
 

mark1961

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

Ok was again looking at the parts. My motor has a 20inch shaft... which would make it a "long" shaft motor I'm thinking as standard in an Evinrude would be 15". If this is the case then the bolt is only $21 not $40. So am i correct in my thinking that anything over the 15" shaft length is considered a "long" model?

Yep, long (L) 20" or extra long (X) 25".....

You cannot actually purchase anything from the BRP site anyway.....that must be done through a dealer, try boats dot net or crowley marine.....
 

carpedium

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

Shipwrecked marine would probably sell you one for a couple bucks. Remember you still have to pay shipping on that.
 

Piece715

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

Yep, long (L) 20" or extra long (XL) 25".....

You cannot actually purchase anything from the BRP site anyway.....that must be done through a dealer, try boats dot net or crowley marine.....
Appreciate it mark! I was just looking at their prices... At least my motor is a long shaft and it cuts the price of that bolt down 50%... $40 dollars for a bolt is RIDICULOUS :eek:


Shipwrecked marine would probably sell you one for a couple bucks. Remember you still have to pay shipping on that.

Thanks CD! I'll shop around and see what i can find... gotta love the internet... price compare without getting off the couch :rolleyes:
 

ezmobee

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

That's a sweet Tower of Power.

Hey, if it makes you feel better about your bolt, I just paid $35 for a tilt pin for my 15HP. Friggin' metal pin with a plastic clasp on it. :facepalm:
 

Piece715

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

Hey, if it makes you feel better about your bolt, I just paid $35 for a tilt pin for my 15HP. Friggin' metal pin with a plastic clasp on it. :facepalm:

Touche sir... Touche!
 

64osby

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

Hey, if it makes you feel better about your bolt, I just paid $35 for a tilt pin for my 15HP. Friggin' metal pin with a plastic clasp on it. :facepalm:

I just found one of those in my boat. Looked on my kicker and yea I should probably use it.:redface:
 

Piece715

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

I just found one of those in my boat. Looked on my kicker and yea I should probably use it.:redface:

As expensive as those lil boogers are... Ya highly recommended for use :D.


A little update.... My buddy who's garage the boat is parked in at the moment has been sick the past 3 days... So this guy after just dying and reincarnating himself is goin NO WHERE near that place for a lil bit... Don't wanna go through that again
 

Piece715

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

So I was doing some reading and read that the trim tab is an anode as well. Is this correct? Do I need to strip and sand it like the anode on the other side of the motor?

Also found that the trim tab just doesn't help bring steering to neutral it also helps to cool the prop hub... Didn't know that
 

Todd4

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

Yes, the trim tab should be another anode. It should be cleaned to be able to make contact with the water and the engine (bolt) in order to protect the OB, just like the other painted one. I didn't know about prop hub cooling, either.

I just returned from three days on the water in my boat. Spent one night on the boat and even caught a fish (for a little while, anyway). Had a great time, boat ran fine (will hit 35 when trimmed properly), but now my office chair is swaying back and forth a bit. ;)

That's just a little incentive for you to float yours. :p

Todd
 

Piece715

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

Yes, the trim tab should be another anode. It should be cleaned to be able to make contact with the water and the engine (bolt) in order to protect the OB, just like the other painted one. I didn't know about prop hub cooling, either.

I just returned from three days on the water in my boat. Spent one night on the boat and even caught a fish (for a little while, anyway). Had a great time, boat ran fine (will hit 35 when trimmed properly), but now my office chair is swaying back and forth a bit. ;)

That's just a little incentive for you to float yours. :p

Todd
Thanks Todd.... Sounds like you had a great time and I am quite jealous sir! If that bolt hadn't broke it'd be a different story. Bought an easy out and some PB blaster this weekend. I'll start spraying and tapping the bolt to let it creep and set in real good before i try removing and we'll see what happens. I'll keep ya updated. REALLY dont want to have to take it to a machine shop to get removed :facepalm:

Ok will be sanding those and performing other odds and ends. Waiting on all the replacement motor parts to come in. I am going to try to remove the mystery wire today and return it to factory wiring with a butt connector. After that I am gonna just start her up and see how she runs to avoid any further set backs. I bought some Startron marine fuel stabilizer from walmart so that'll be used with every tank. I believe it recommends doubling the first dose.... can't quite remember. Is there a brand that anyone recommends or is it all the same? I searched and the Startron got good reviews. I did buy carb cleaner as well. Should i spray it in the carbs while running to help clean it or just see how she runs first? Thought about doing a decarb to the motor.... hmmm what to do what to do
 

ezmobee

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

Don't mess with it. Run fresh 87-89 gas with 50:1 TCW-3 rated 2-stroke oil. If the gas is going to be sitting for a month or more, treat it.
 

Piece715

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

Don't mess with it. Run fresh 87-89 gas with 50:1 TCW-3 rated 2-stroke oil. If the gas is going to be sitting for a month or more, treat it.

I was just afraid of it being slightly gummed since it has been sitting for 3 years since being worked on. Not sure if the place used and stabilizer in their gas or if they even did any of the work i requested seeing I pretty much have definitive proof they didn't touch the water pump. Was gonna use it to clean some of the gunk out. I looked in the fuel filter and u can see the gummy dried gas at the bottom of the container. I plan on just starting her up and seeing how she does first. Any suggestions if she does run rough? And will it be fine to run her on muffs with the trim plate removed?
 
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