Why do I keep doing this to myself? (hint: because I love a challenge)

[emoney]

Ok, first and foremost, don't slaughter me because there' s no pics....yet. I didn't get the beast home until after dark last night. I picked her up just shy of 100 miles away, and yes, sight unseen. Let the record reflect the "she" in question is 1988 Sunbird SWL 200...i.e. Walkaround Cuddy Glasser. Has a 90's era Evinrude 130 Looper on the back attached via a rather large bracket (more on all of this later). I need to figure out my Photobucket password I suppose, or relearn how to attach marginal sized pics directly, but I will share them this weekend. Just wanted to get my thread started so I have somewhere to go. She's got a few spots where the gelcoat has worn through because it's sat out in the baking Florida sun for a long time. I plan to clean her up with the pressure washer and some bleach and some sandpaper this weekend with the final goal being paint the topsides. Haven't decided if I'm going to Roll and Tip or try shooting it with the gun. It's too big to get into my garage, so I'm thinking it's wiser to use the roller/brush so the neighbor's dog/car/house doesn't get covered with overspray.

Question number 1: what's the Topside paint of choice, that doesn't require a 2nd mortgage. I plan to just keep the original white topside color with a gray accent on the side, so stock colors shouldn't be a problem. It's had the bottom painted, and even though I don't plan to keep her in the water, I'm guessing I need to recoat that barrier paint? Or can I just paint over it after primer to match the top? It will be a trailer queen more than likely for the foreseeable future.

Question number 2: Is there an epoxy or gelcoat skim coat I should be applying where the color is starting to get so thin, or can I just paint over that? I've got a little railing work to do first, but I will probably start acquiring the necessary materials.

Question number 3: is there a safe and easy way to get her off the trailer, other than floating? I need to clean up this trailer, although it did do a pretty good job getting me through that 100 mile journey last night. It's a low priority, but it is on the list. The bunks look like the wood might be ok, but the carpet/covering is getting threadbare.

Probably enough for today. I'll try to get some pics in asap and I'll do my darned best to keep this project flowing until splash time. Wish me luck.

 

[Woodonglass]

So I'm assuming she's a 20 ft boat??? If so you can build a rolling cradle for her for around $100 using Harbor Freight Pneumatic casters and some 2x4's.Make it tall enuf so it's Just inches below the bottom of the hull as it sits on the trailer and about 3/4 the length of the boat. After removing the Motor you can Tie off the front of the trailer and then winch the boat back off the trailer and onto the cradle. Reverse the process to put her back on the trailer.

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Check the link below for My favorite inexpensive but very durable painting method. No need to skim coat unless there are heavy scratches or gouges in the Gelcoat.

 

[emoney]

That cradle idea is awesome. Tell me more about how you actually get it off and onto that? Quick Google search is telling me this hull weighs a couple thousand pounds without the motor. Does that change how you would proceed? BTW, thanks a ton for that link to your painting tips. That’s going to help me a ton!!

 

[emoney]

WOG, it’s got the OMC Sea Drive bracket on the back. At some point it looks like someone switched out the engine to an early 90s 130 hp, because I’m pretty sure there wasn’t a 130 in 1988. Anyway, to mount it you have to take off the transom bracket which is where I assume the Id plate was because I can’t find any markings on this thing to determine the model. Where else can I look to find out what year this motor is? I did get the hood off last night and someone had already bypassed the VRO but it’s definitely original so I could see it being time to change. Just need to know what year it is before I can order a replacement.

 

[emoney]

By the way, "challenge accepted", lol. She may have been sitting for a little while. Last pic is the Seadrive in question. I've thought about the possibility that someone just switched out the top cover or even the decals, but from I've gathered so far, it seems to match under the hood a 130? I know the SeaDrive was branded as "liters" as in 1.6/2.0 Liter motor. But how do I know? I'll ask over in the EvinJohn forum about narrowing down the model number too, but feel free to answer that here. The motor on the tilt unit is working, I can hear it, but no movement so that will be project number two, after I figure out the fuel issue.

 

[kcassells]

Nice project. Hows bout some more boat pics. Pain is good!

 

[emoney]

I promise I will get more up this weekend when I’m off work and there’s still sunshine...assuming it stops raining. I hope to jump in with both feet starting Saturday as I’m off all next week and I picked up my new battery tonite on the way home. Along with some ATF fluid to fill the sea drive unit. Won’t know what I have until I start trying things.

 

[emoney]

Pics are too big to upload from my phone so I’ll email n to myself and resize. I went through the boat today after cleaning the green off and decided it’s strong enough to be worth fixing up. Messing with the TT I actually lifted the whole boat off the trailer with my floor jack, unintentionally. However, the byproduct of that was the transom is pretty solid lol. I added oil since it was empty but now it won’t move and I broke off the switch. My signature is for real I tell you. But, I’m guessing that getting oil into the system has confirmed there’s a problem since it won’t move at all now. Waiting on a manual that’s in the mail before I tackle that unless anyone has an idea?

 

[emoney]

Ok, as promised, here are the "more pics" of the boat in it's current state; the Florida sun, coupled with a factory trying to churn out as many boats as possible and maybe not doing a good enough job of application, the gelcoat has faded very thin. These pics are after I've washed and used bleach to remove the mold, etc




. Even the trailer is going to require some serious attention, when I get to that point.

And, on the advice of our very own Woodonglass, you can see I've gone and picked up paint & primer.


I really appreciate you sharing your mixing process, etc., WOG. For those of you that have access to a Rural King store, that's where I was able to the same stuff that he got from Tractor Supply. This is much cheaper than the Rustoleum at Lowe's, by maybe 45-50%. It was $11.99 a quart and I think Rustoleum was $19.99? Either way, the thinner and catalyst was right there and I don't remember seeing the same at Lowe's. Wish me luck!

 

[kcassells]

Not promoting but suggesting to check out Kirby's paints. Same formula as rustoleum but a million consistent colors.
Use Wogs formula ya see.
I'm doing the same thing. Wog approved.

 

[kcassells]

Paints great but when are you going to determine the structural issues under the floor?

 

[emoney]

Already checked the stringers and the transom and it seems pretty solid in the spots I drilled. The center part of the sole comes up above the fuel tank. I found a little rot in the cabin where water entered at the door that I’m going to strengthen with epoxy but that’s about it. If I had plans to keep it long term I would’ve separated the top and redid it all but it’s not “the” boat so as long as it’s safe and dependable then for the most part this is the project to hone my skills as I’m pretty sure it’s just going to be a flip.

 

[emoney]

Well it rained all morning here, and then after lunch it stopped and shot up to our normal 94 degrees with about 85% humidity so I didn’t try to do too much. Yet anyway. I did pull the helm chairs and do this;

 

[emoney]

[No message]

 

[oldrem]

Those sure cleaned up nicely!

 

[emoney]

To be honest; it didn’t come clean. That’s plastic paint. Don’t get me wrong, I attempted to clean it by throwing everything I had it’s way, including straight bleach. But this boat was a “lift queen” and Florida is harsh on plastic. So, out comes the paint. Thats 4 coats, in case anyone is curious.
i got a present in the mail today! Now I’m going to start attacking that lift/tilt system and see what gives!

 

[emoney]

It's either been extremely hot, or extremely wet down here, so not a lot has been accomplished. However, I've been acquiring materials. Picked up a hatch door for the transom access, new fuel line/primer bulb, so vinyl/pvc to replace spots where there's currently very aged teak. By aged I'm talking worn so deep that if I tried to restore it, it would be so thin it couldn't handle much in the way of support, etc. I've ordered/received & installed a TT switch.

Now that I received my Sea Drive manual, I also finally figured out the motor and need another service manual for the 1996 Evinrude 130 that's attached, lol. Oh well, it's still helpful in that the tilt/trim is in there and it helped me replace the bad switch for that unit. Is there a better choice for these manuals? Factory/Seloc?

 

[oldrem]

I would highly recommend locating a Factory manual. Too often there is misinformation in the after market manuals. I have been able to track down originals for all my OMC and Mercury outboards from my 1966 Evinrude to my 1992 Mercury

 

[kcassells]

It's either been extremely hot, or extremely wet down here, so not a lot has been accomplished. However, I've been acquiring materials. Picked up a hatch door for the transom access, new fuel line/primer bulb, so vinyl/pvc to replace spots where there's currently very aged teak. By aged I'm talking worn so deep that if I tried to restore it, it would be so thin it couldn't handle much in the way of support, etc. I've ordered/received & installed a TT switch.

Now that I received my Sea Drive manual, I also finally figured out the motor and need another service manual for the 1996 Evinrude 130 that's attached, lol. Oh well, it's still helpful in that the tilt/trim is in there and it helped me replace the bad switch for that unit. Is there a better choice for these manuals? Factory/Seloc?

Marine engine Or marine engine .yabadabadoo
The actual site may be deleted by iboats.

http://www.marineengine.com/parts/o...=OMC&msclkid=40512008ac911729f2cc7d548ba4c642

 

[kcassells]

To be honest there is no way that boat is dry. No way. Have you opened up any area to expose the foam. If there is rot up front it came up from the back. Starts from the bottom up ya see.
Your boat age is the same as my project and I denied every inch of rot.
Just saying. Cosmetics is just that and that only. Not necessarily safe below. Lipstick on a piggy!
1988 noway is it dry. Post pics of the dry test to put me at ease.
So...…….your boat do what you want.
Not to be a Richard but being on this forum for sooo long doing my rehab I have seen this too many times says I.
Only hoping for the best.