Alumacraft Tampico Restoration

[hvymtl939]

Took advantage of the nice weather on Saturday (62 degrees on 11/24!) to get started on the tear down.

First thing to go was the windshield.

Next it was time to take off the dash. It was pretty rotten, but I tried my best to keep it intact so I can use it as a template for the new one.

Dash out, showing the flotation foam and glovebox? under the bow.

Drilling out rivets to remove the bench seats.

Front bench out

Rear bench next

 

[hvymtl939]

Interior mostly gutted.

Seats and dash

Windshield. What does everyone recommend to clean up hazy plexiglass?

How the seats are put together. Aluminum frame that holds the flotation foam, topped with a piece of 3/8" ply.

After Saturday's gorgeous weather, we got slammed with a blizzard on Sunday, so the boat is buried. Once everything defrosts, I think I'm finally mentally ready to give up my garage spot for the next few weeks so we can get the hull inside for prep work, fitment on new parts, and then paint.

 

[hvymtl939]

Some questions:


The windshield has some kind of rubber trim on the bottom that insulates the frame from the top of the closed bow. It's 55 years old, and cracked as I removed the screws. Is there a place I can find something similar?

What do you recommend to polish the plexiglass?

When I get ready to paint, how much of the existing paint do I need to remove? Then is it self etching, then regular primer, then the rustoleum? What do you recommend for tape for masking off trim and the stripes?

 

[oldrem]

If the old paint is not peeling, you only need to lightly sand it and feather the edges. I used 3M automotive tape for my masking. I tried Frog, but the 3M stuck better and was more flexible

 

[kcassells]

I hope you saved that windshield

 

[hvymtl939]

If the old paint is not peeling, you only need to lightly sand it and feather the edges. I used 3M automotive tape for my masking. I tried Frog, but the 3M stuck better and was more flexible

There's a bit on the transom from a second paint job at some point that will need to be knocked down, but the factory red paint isn't peeling. It's almost like the paint faded off years ago and left a stain of sorts on the aluminum.

I hope you saved that windshield

Yup! Notice it's sitting on the workbench behind the seats. Have any recommendations on how to clear up the plexi?

 

[hvymtl939]

Also, we're planning on ply for the transom and seats, but I want to use a piece of mahogany for the dash. Anyone think that's a bad idea?

 

[buxmj]

Mahogany will look great if you seal it and clear coat with several coats, I think you will need to re apply clear every few years depending on how much sun it gets but you won't have to strip and start over, just sand and add another coat or 2.

 

[hvymtl939]

Mahogany will look great if you seal it and clear coat with several coats, I think you will need to re apply clear every few years depending on how much sun it gets but you won't have to strip and start over, just sand and add another coat or 2.

It shouldn't get much of any, as it will always be stored covered, and when it's uncovered, the dash is tucked a little ways under the closed bow's aluminum.

 

[briangcc]

For your windshield try using some toothpaste to see if the hazing is on the outside or if its through the entire sheet of plexi. Use the stuff with a little bit of grit, not the gel stuff as that has no polishing qualities. If it's just an external coating you could try some finishing compound to gently buff it out.

If its through the entire sheet of plexi, take it to a local plastics shop and they should be able to use it as a template to cut/mold a new piece for you. It may be pricey to do this though.

 

[hvymtl939]

For your windshield try using some toothpaste to see if the hazing is on the outside or if its through the entire sheet of plexi. Use the stuff with a little bit of grit, not the gel stuff as that has no polishing qualities. If it's just an external coating you could try some finishing compound to gently buff it out.

If its through the entire sheet of plexi, take it to a local plastics shop and they should be able to use it as a template to cut/mold a new piece for you. It may be pricey to do this though.

It's really not in that bad of shape, so I'm hoping a polish does the trick. I'll try the toothpaste approach this evening!

 

[briangcc]

It's got a mild abrasive in it that most people overlook. If it starts to clean up with that you can either keep using toothpaste or switch to a little bit more abrasive polishing compound.

My dad did this to a Cub Scouts pinewood derby car after we dipped it in black Rustoleum...many years ago. Gave it a nice shine!

 

[oldrem]

And it will smell minty fresh! :laugh:

 

[hvymtl939]

Left work a little early yesterday, and got more work done.

Started by disassembling the bench seats.

55 year old aluminum rivet 1, Harbor Freight bit 0.

And finally apart.

Next was on to the dash. I like this old steering wheel, but the plastic is pretty brittle, and it's for a pulley setup, so I'll be using the steering components currently on my Jon boat.

Decided a sawzall was the easiest way to yeet it out of there. Luckily, the curve that follows the top of the bow isn't rotten, so I will be able to use it as a template.

Not sure if I can get this functional again, or if it's even worth it since the GPS on my phone is more accurate, but this is too damn cool to not go back on the dash again.

And finally, cool that the original capacity plate is still legible!

 

[chevymaher]

Accurate or not original gauges are cool to have working. I don't understand the GPS thing myself. What does it really matter except braggart rights. Idle speed in wake zone zero need to know accurate speed. On plane again don't need to know. Top speed only need to know when bragging. otherwise a gen speed is fine and the factory gauges do that well.

I tested mine against a GPS it is actually pretty close.

 

[hvymtl939]

Accurate or not original gauges are cool to have working. I don't understand the GPS thing myself. What does it really matter except braggart rights. Idle speed in wake zone zero need to know accurate speed. On plane again don't need to know. Top speed only need to know when bragging. otherwise a gen speed is fine and the factory gauges do that well.

I tested mine against a GPS it is actually pretty close.

Yeah, I've never been a situation where I had to worry about speed. There's one lake we frequent that's no wake, so it's simple enough. Another that we occasionally go to does have a 20 mph speed limit, but I've only taken our pontoon there, and it barely hits 21 on it's best days, so it's a non-issue.

 

[mickyryan]

i tested 3 different pitot speedo with my gps and we found all to be within 1 to 2mph of gps , we were shocked as 2 of them where off of some really old boats , i went with pitot speedo on mine because half the time the old gps one wouldnt sync up right .

 

[hvymtl939]

i tested 3 different pitot speedo with my gps and we found all to be within 1 to 2mph of gps , we were shocked as 2 of them where off of some really old boats , i went with pitot speedo on mine because half the time the old gps one wouldnt sync up right .

How can I test if what I have is working or not, and if not, do you have any idea how to fix it?

 

[mickyryan]

if you have a friend with a boat take the hose out of his put on back of yours run down the creek with gps app on phone and you will be able to tell just dont be moving because water will come up the tube and usually tube is dry it just compresses the air inside tube

 

[oldrem]

At my age I just want to get to where I'm going to fish while I still have a pulse. :lol: