1977 Sylvan Sea Monster Side Console Rebuild

[oldrem]

Decided i didn't have enough going with the Ouachita Convincer project lol so I went and looked at another boat this afternoon. Talked the guy down since it's going to need new decks, foam, carpet, paint, trailer lights and tires etc. But for the boat, trailer, 40hp Johnson, 36lb electric bow mount and some other goodies I was willing to pop the $350 we negotiated. Wife thinks I'm nuts for picking up another project but I know it will be fun.

I'll bring it home in a week or two so will post pics then.

The only thing I'm concerned with so far is whether there is a way to remove the old rubber bumper trim to reuse it (appears to be rock hard) after I remove/replace the cap or will I have to just plan on new?

 

[Woodonglass]

You can try heating it with a heat gun or blow drier but some times there's no way to save it.

 

[oldrem]

Cold and raining this morning, but drove up to Milwaukee to pick up the Sylvan. Put new wheels/tires on the trailer and a complete new wiring/light kit before I could trek it home. Luckily I took some good bungee cords along. Shortly after getting on the Interstate, the head of the transom saver broke so I pulled off to the side and secured it as tight as I could flat against the transom.

Here it is in all it's glory:

 

[oldrem]

Put a head light on tonight and used your suggestion to try a heat gun on the rub rail insert. I removed a 4 ft section easily enough, but looking around the boat there are so many chunks out of it plus it has shrunk by at least 8 inches over the years. I'll be looking at a new insert next year when I get it put together.

 

[Woodonglass]

Okay but...Start Saving!!! The rubber insert is PRICEY!!!!

 

[oldrem]

With temps in the 20's and low 30's this weekend, all I did was test the starter motor and the neutral safety switch. The switch works, but only if you find the exact "sweet spot". Doesn't look light it's a serviceable item. Wondering if spraying contact cleaner or brake cleaner might help???

Moved to the basement to start building a pair of motor stands.

 

[Woodonglass]

I'd recommend replacing the switch

 

[oldrem]

Was afraid you'd say that Mike. I ordered one yesterday.

I did finish my two new outboard stands. I made the one on the right a foot wider to accommodate both my 7.5hp and my 15hp. They were very crowded on my old stand I was given for the 5hp. The other one will be for the Johnson 40. I had a length of 2x12, so used that for both stands in place of the 2x6's

 

[oldrem]

On the expressway on my way home with the boat, the transom saver cradle end broke (what was left is shown in the picture). I stopped and bungied the motor down and prayed the road was smooth enough so the skeg wouldn't get damaged hitting the road the rest of the way. Good thing the trailer had stiff suspension.

The unit had a lot of surface rust, so I sanded, coated with Rustoleum Rust Reformer followed by red oxide primer and finally enamel. I replaced the old nuts, bolts and washers with stainless and made a new cradle from a block of 1" hard rubber. Should get some good use out of it now.

 

[oldrem]

Used my engine hoist to pull the motor off the Sylvan this afternoon to get it on one of the stands I made last week. I figured 4 800lb capacity chains and 3 1500lb capacity links gave me enough safety rating for a 150lb motor

 

[oldrem]

Looks like this was the last weekend above freezing for us for quite a while, so I did as much as I could. Fought more that 30 rusted nuts and bolts removing things (WHY DOES ANYONE EVER USE REGULAR STEEL INSTEAD OF SS OR BRASS FASTENERS!) Removed the Minn Kota Power Drive, anchor winch assembly and the old bow light from the bow. Took one seat out, as well as the defunct Eagle Z-7000 locator (looks like it was not very waterproof). Removed the bow and stern castings and the remaining rub rail insert.

After inspecting the transom wood now that the motor is off, I've decided I'll be replacing that as well. Although there's no rot, a PO decided to use 2x wood instead of exterior ply and it's showing signs of cracking. The size of the wood insert on this boat is small enough that I can do it with 1/2 sheet of 3/4" (2' x 8' x 3/4) sold locally.

Not sure how much more I'll be able to do before the snow flies. I need to get it out of the car port and covered before that.

 

[oldrem]

27 degrees when I got home from work this afternoon, but wanted to start pulling the transom wood. Bundled up, grabbed a toolbox, and started pulling the 600 (seemed like it) carriage bolts, screws, and nails. Popped off the transom cap and started removing rub rail bolts. Had one head strip, so may have to drill that one out in the daylight tomorrow. Hopefully that's the last one I'll need to get out to pull the old transom out.

Supposed to get up to 34 tomorrow, so won't be quite as bad to work on it. I still have a few things I want to strip off before I park it for the winter.

Not sure if I'm even going to bother covering it this year. It's been sitting outside for a couple years now, and I already know I'll be replacing all the flooring and foam so don't see that another winter can do any more harm.

 

[Watermann]

The Sylvan, a re-branded Starcraft you'll find plenty of info in the SC section for your boat. Like the Wefco profile for the rub rail insert. It should be this one Profile 0101G Here's a link to the insert profiles. http://www.wefcorubber.com/PDF/marin...%20Inserts.pdf

The problem with leaving the boat uncovered is that as soon as the bilge drain hole fills with ice the boat will continue to fill, becoming very heavy and freezing ice expands which may cause damage too. I turtled my empty hulls for the winter when they weren't in the garage that is.

 

[oldrem]

The Sylvan, a re-branded Starcraft you'll find plenty of info in the SC section for your boat. Like the Wefco profile for the rub rail insert. It should be this one Profile 0101G Here's a link to the insert profiles. http://www.wefcorubber.com/PDF/marin...%20Inserts.pdf

The problem with leaving the boat uncovered is that as soon as the bilge drain hole fills with ice the boat will continue to fill, becoming very heavy and freezing ice expands which may cause damage too. I turtled my empty hulls for the winter when they weren't in the garage that is.

Thank you Watermann. After pulling the transom and controls, I had second thoughts myself and covered it up alongside the Ouachita and the Appleby

 

[oldrem]

This is why I decided to replace the wood in the transom. No signs of deterioration, but those cracks are about 1/2" deep and probably wouldn't last long.


PS: Weatherman lied - never got over 29 degrees F here today

 

[mickyryan]

looks like it will be a piece of cake though

 

[oldrem]

Since I can't do anything on the boat until spring, I've been wheeling the motor into the Admirals garage when I have time. I started a thread on it in the outboard section awhile back. https://forums.iboats.com/forum/eng...on-evinrude-outboards/10522320-40el75-delemma

Got it running today, so not much more I can do until warmer weather arrives. I will be rebuilding the carb over the winter and replacing the water pump assembly with an updated version.

 

[oldrem]

Got the carb pulled yesterday and found out I'll need to replace the old original cork float, and reorder the correct rebuild kit. Got the 7042 instead of the 7024. Senior moments suck.

 

[Watermann]

Got the carb pulled yesterday and found out I'll need to replace the old original cork float, and reorder the correct rebuild kit. Got the 7042 instead of the 7024. Senior moments suck.

Too funny, been there! :lol:

 

[kcassells]

Being there...do that.