1976 Grady White Transom Rebuild

[oldrem]

Curious as to why a 25 extra long instead of a more common 20 long shaft? Around here at least, a 25 would be almost impossible to find. Glad to see you're still at it.

 

[dingbat]

Curious as to why a 25 extra long instead of a more common 20 long shaft? Around here at least, a 25 would be almost impossible to find. Glad to see you're still at it.

A 20” shaft is almost impossible to find around the coast

The 20” shaft is popular for use on boats with little to no deadrise aka bass boats.

Most of the “big water” boats (high deadrise) use 25” or even 30” shafts.

 

[oldrem]

Very interesting. In my area 25s or 30s are usually only small motors used as kickers on sailboats for Lake Michigan. I can find more 15s than even 20s here because of the number of ski boats.

 

[demarko210]

Wanted to raise the transom to avoid some of the back splash i get when i come to a stop. Ii really wanted to do it with a full transom and bracket but this is my first time doing a rebuild so ill wait till i get another project. Also most of the motor i found in the 200 hp range are 25''. I am removing a 115 hp inline 6 20'' boat rated for 185 hp.

 

[demarko210]

i want to ask if anyone think this design would work. Consider that i HAD a center stringer that added support for the deck. I would like to leave this section open open for a couple of storage compartments.

 

[kcassells]

Nah... that particular pc. of wood is called a KEEL STRINGER. Integral to the boats construction. Tie it back into the bulkheads. You can use a 2x4 trimmed to fit plus it will support the platform for the tank. I have 1 on mine. It's the backbone of the boat. What came out should go back. I see what you are saying.
So 2x trimmed to fit. That platform will fail once the tank is loaded up.
Mods are cool so look at it that way.

 

[demarko210]

Understand, i will put it back the way it was. I never had a tank under the deck, it was next to the transom above the deck. I will make it just 2 separate storage compartments. Putting it back the way it was will be easier, which is why i did not put the center stringer in until last. i was undecided what i will do until now.

 

[kcassells]

Understand, i will put it back the way it was. I never had a tank under the deck, it was next to the transom above the deck. I will make it just 2 separate storage compartments. Putting it back the way it was will be easier, which is why i did not put the center stringer in until last. i was undecided what i will do until now.

Hey Ole Buddy....Here's your build!

 

[demarko210]

I linked it to my signature like you did?

 

[kcassells]

There ya go you ole fart! Back into the game. :laugh:

Looking forward to your posts.

 

[demarko210]

kcassells

I saw that you painted you transom. I have not cap mines yet as i left if covered over the winter. I was waiting until i get the back end of the floor installed so i do not have to crawl under the top cap when i place it back in.My question to you is what did you paint or use to fair you outer skin? What grit paper do i use to sand the outer skin before you fair it?

I was going to buy a gallon of this stuff:
Total Boat
Poly over Poly

 

[kcassells]

I used @ wooidonglass rustoleum formula, instead of rustoleum. I substituted Kirbys Paint.
I've heard good results on total boat.
Read woods paint section all the sandpaper etc. info is in there.

Kirbypaint.com

1961 Lonestar Flamingo - SPLASHED

...Kinda!!​

Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms
Paint Your Boat with Tractor Paint

...Say What!!!​

 

[Woodonglass]

Good to see you back posting! I'd start with 80 grit and then 100, 120, 180 and finally 220. I would do the fairing when you get to 120 and then the last two sandings to have her ready for Primer. If you see some flaws after the first coat of primer, sand that area gain with 180, do the fairing then sand it smooth with 220 and shoot more primer. I really like the Rustoleum Clean Metal primer ( don't worry, it works great on fiberglass too)

 

[demarko210]

Woodonglass Thank you glad to have some like minded individuals to help when questions arrive.


Question in the picture below when i seal the transom in with the top cap, how far should i bring the 1708 down on the outer skin? Should it be to the splash well drain holes or the last hole for the engine mount? Should i add a layer of csm over top of the 1708 for smooth surface?

Also before i glass the cap and transom together I should just sand the outer skin with 80 grit to get a good bond and clean surface? Then proceed with WOG process of sanding 80 100 120 180 220 on the entire outer skin when it sets up?

 

[kcassells]

@demarko210
Why/what are the pcs. of transom wood there in the pic with a gap and over the transom height?
I'm guessing it will be cut off flush.

Bevel the existing glass a little and that will let the 1808 roll over. If not then cut it flush. Don't run it over the gelcoat.
If you want to work on the outskin transom you will need to sand it down to glass for a bond.

 

[demarko210]

kcassells

Thanks kc. The transom was 20" i raised to 24" to try and avoid some splash back even though i have a splash well. I will be adding this bracket for a 25" engine.

:

 

[kcassells]

Just yapping...are you going to fill those voids in the ply?

 

[demarko210]

Yes they will be filled. The picture was just a test fit of the cap on with the new transom. I was unsure what i wanted to do with sealing the top cap to the transom so i just started working back on the cabin floor. I have been mixing 1:1 cabosil and poly then adding a few pinches of chopped csm to fill spaces and making PB

 

[demarko210]

I was trying to find your post on foam. I cant seem to locate the page but how much foam do you think i will need to fill this boat? the grey lines are where the foam stopped originally. the black lines is where i want to add the foam back.

 

[Woodonglass]

I'd use a final layer of CSM to hide the 1708. Grind and feather the outer skin and then wrap the glass over the top and about 3" onto the outer skin. Do final sanding and fairing. It should blend in and be almost invisible.