glastron v162 futura project

diveplane

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Feb 5, 2017
Messages
114
bump what roller system can i get that will bolt on there anyone?

will need one for either side
 

MILKWEED

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Oct 7, 2016
Messages
80
Looking at the pics I'm not sure that is the right trailer for your boat, If it was mine I would look into putting 4 or 5 Keel rollers on and Bunks on the rear positioned so the floor stringers are supported by the bunks and extending past the transom. My old Shoreline trailer under my V153 is setup like I described and I can load/unload so easy by myself. The boat will sit a little higher on the trailer but will be supported better and will be easy on/off setup. It looks like the bunk roller setup is under an area that is hollow and could crack the glass. If you do change it use bright colored Poly rollers as they are easy to see in the water when you line it up to load. JMO
 

diveplane

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 5, 2017
Messages
114
i need front keel rollers already has rear roller system in place fits just fine this trailer.
 

diveplane

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Feb 5, 2017
Messages
114
hi all been a while since i last added anything, boat is still a long shot away from main repairs but small progresses being made.

did a float test in april 2018 she looked great in the water. trailer had no missing parts as i thought otherwise at first , front keel pad is plastic abs.

other main task this year was getting my boat into a dry shed workshop i have prepared, and i also had to widen the inside of shed to accommodate the boat, all came out great, little tight work space but manageable , also started rewiring the boat
new cables in .new lights for now..
 

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diveplane

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Feb 5, 2017
Messages
114
more to come soon guys, and thx to anyone helping us in this journey of boat repairs.

yea thats my old half ton chevy v6 manual 5 speed i just restored pulling my boat, also came out superb.
 

diveplane

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Feb 5, 2017
Messages
114
finally got rid of the old shady wiring , and started work on the electrical side of the engine, power trim and tilt fixed and running beautiful.
 

diveplane

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Feb 5, 2017
Messages
114
yep the transom is gone on my boat so its game on long road ahead slog to restore the boat.

opting for the coosa board sounds better option for transom.

pic below its dry rot as well the bradle went straight through wood easy and touched outer glass. finger busted through easy as well felt as if the transom was eatin by termite, flakes off easy.

stringers are not in the best of shape but they are solid hold my 250 pound weight , so not sure what to do on those yet.

phase one before taking motor off i will get the engine going test runs on it for a while then remove and store.

phase 2 will be the break down of the boat and remove top cap to access transom area.
rotted transom.jpg
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diveplane

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 5, 2017
Messages
114
ok guys hit a snag i got gear case refill pump kit and the adaptor only works on top, the plastic thread is to wide bottom fill hole and the metal one is also to wide, but fits top hole. what adapter fits these old school johnson outboards?.

75ELR79 johnson stinger 1979.
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jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
24,871
Should probably ask that question in the Johnson outboard forum
 

diveplane

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 5, 2017
Messages
114
ok it was my own fault i found out it does fit oops all good, now i got the outboard running "what a sound"
i do need to replace the water pump, only ran out board for less 30 secs .. least i know she fires up no problem.
 

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steve_h7

Chief Petty Officer
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Sep 16, 2018
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401
yep the transom is gone on my boat so its game on long road ahead slog to restore the boat.

opting for the coosa board sounds better option for transom.

pic below its dry rot as well the bradle went straight through wood easy and touched outer glass. finger busted through easy as well felt as if the transom was eatin by termite, flakes off easy.

stringers are not in the best of shape but they are solid hold my 250 pound weight , so not sure what to do on those yet.

phase one before taking motor off i will get the engine going test runs on it for a while then remove and store.

phase 2 will be the break down of the boat and remove top cap to access transom area.

​​​​​​​

My vote would be to replace them too. If the transom and deck are bad there's no point to going to all the work you'll be doing only to leave what will become the weakest link.
 

diveplane

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 5, 2017
Messages
114
woohooo outboard runs a charm what a sound, not been started in a decade boom fired up no problem, however i suspect
the water pump is bad as the water flow out head was not acceptable, will replace impeller.
least i know the motor is in good shape. these old motors make a great sound imo.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ede...ature=youtu.be first check off on the list ,small progress.
 

diveplane

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 5, 2017
Messages
114
more updates got outboard off stowed, and boat split ready to take cap off, transom repairs, stingers are fine just need reinforced places, very limited budget on this boat repair. asked few other builders said it should be fine.


keep in mind this project has been done by one man on my own everything so far no help.
 

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diveplane

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Feb 5, 2017
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114
outboard ready for some make up = prime paint. skeg repair 2.jpg skeg repair done was chipped off at tip
 

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diveplane

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 5, 2017
Messages
114
ok need some advice prior to rattle can the outboard.

ok already got x2 cans moeller etching primer yellow says its good for above or below water line
will fully cover the outboard with a light prime , the metal has been sanded down degreased , and used acetone cloth to clean again, just prior to paint primer will do another acetone wipe, then a tack cloth wipe.


now the questions are the best steps to doing this?

do i let each coat of primer fully dry cure before applying another coat ?

also for the base color coat let primer fully cure before applying base coat color? , and do i need to lightly sand between coats guess not as the etch primer is a tack bond, or do i apply the base coat color when primer is tacky to get a good bond?
finally can u use automotive base coat color over the primer? and clear coat? whats the best to use? i want a gloss white and lower unit race orange maybe.
..........................
Moeller zinc phosphate primer (yellow) for outboard & sterndrive applications.
  • For aluminum surfaces above or below the waterline. This power primer etches into the aluminum, forming a strong surface/primer union that is resistant to corrosion.
  • This corrosive barrier contains a high percentage (95%) of zinc, for maximum resistance against solvents & abrasions.
  • Outstanding durability and abrasion-resistance.
  • 12 oz. spray can
................................
can someone break the steps down, to get best results.
thx guys.
 
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