1990 Rinker 236 sport cuddy restore-Stringers and motor mounts

[GracieBell1]

I am going to open the other motor mount and will be able to pay close attention to see if the motor mount stringer is against the hull.

 

[GracieBell1]

So after inspection. It seems that the motor mount and stringer were placed directly onto the hull. On my old FourWinns everything was floating, including the wood for the motor mounts. On the Rinker it seems that everything is floating but the engine mount and engine stringer. This must be why the piece of plywood flat on the hull extends past the mount to the end of the stringer. Any opinions or takes on this theory???

 

[Woodonglass]

I recommend you bed your motormounts in Peanut Butter.

 

[GracieBell1]

I was thinking that I would bed the motor mounts and motor mount stringers since they seem to be directly on the hull. Then float the rest of the stringers and bulkhead. This looks to be the way Rinker did it at the factory. The other choice would be bedding everything. I like pl premium because it has some flex to it. What do you think?

 

[Woodonglass]

I'm NOT a fan of PL. It takes a Minimum of 72 hours for it to cure and stop outgassing and then it still is NOT friendly with adhering to the fiberglass resin. There is no reason to use it. PB is all that's needed and is what the majority of the members here on the forum use. Your boat your decision.

 

[GracieBell1]

Well, I would rather use PB. I just can't really see how that cures the hard spot issue. I guess it would give a continuous contact area that has bo slight gaps. But it would still be a hard thin spot against the hull.

 

[Woodonglass]

The Hard spots you're referencing are when the wood stringer sits directly on the hull. PB is a lot more forgiving than wood. It may be hard to believe but it's true. If you want you can use some of the pink or blue plank foam and cut some 1/2 inch strips and staple them to the bottom of your stringers to hold them up off the bottom of the hull an then fillet and tab them in place if it'll put your mind more at ease.

 

[GracieBell1]

So for me to be able to start work today and go all weekend my choices for bedding material are PL Premium, Foam or bondo lightweight filler. What say you?

 

[GracieBell1]

So I want to follow up on the bedding of the stringers and motor mount. I was told by a local boat repair joint that if the width of the stringers are more that an inch wide I did not have to bed them. Said that it really only applies when using plywood for stringers. When I was cutting everything out of the engine area I noticed that the engine mount stringer and the slat piece of plywood that the monut sits on are directly against the hull. I assume this is why the manufacutrer extended the flat plywood against the hull past the motor mount to the end of the stringer. So with that said, I plan on bedding my other stringers and bulkheads in pl premium. I wonder if I could just use csm and resin to attach the flat plywood under the mounts to the hull. I was a little worried that if I use pl premium it may sit off the hull too much.

 

[GracieBell1]

This is another big question. Maybe "On The River" has experience with this. I have motor mounts that are pretty long. I have attached pics and talked aboutht them previously. When laying the glass I am wondering if I can overlap glass to give me the coverage that I need. I am currently using 1708 but have experience with Woven roving. I actually have some of the woven left over from my last project. I watch some videos of this "the frisco boater" he used a paper macea method which consisted of small 3'x6' strips that he layed ove the wood untill he got the thickness he wanted. Also, can I use 1708 and woven roving together? Thanks guys

 

[Woodonglass]

Once again the Majority of the members including me and others use and recommend bedding stringers and motor mounts regardless of their width using PB. You can use 1708 or woven. If you use woven you must lay down CSM first. Woven has a tough time going over corner but you can alleviate that issue by Pre-creasing it on the bench top.. You can use the WR and 1708 together as long as you but CSM down. in fact you could lay the 1708 down upside down with the CSM facing up and then lay the WR on top of that!!!

 

[GracieBell1]

What about overlapping the glass or using smaller pieces that overlapp to do the mounts. Do you think this reduces the strength or integrety of the mold?

 

[Woodonglass]

Overlapping will not reduce the strength no the integrity

 

[GracieBell1]

Thanks, I appreciate it.

 

[GracieBell1]

So I have an off topic question. I am thinking of buying my buddies boat for a beach house we have in South Carolina. He just had the motor requilt last year. In the off season he did not drain the water form the block and it froze and cracked. You can actually see the crack on the outside of the block. I have had outboards that have been welded and used for years. My question is if the block can be weled back or if I need a whole new block. I was thinking if I can weld it then I could capitalize on the fresh requild. He never started the boat, just noticed the leak and crack. It is a GM 130 4banger.