Starcraft SuperSport Restoration (18 footer)

[jasoutside]

Re: Starcraft SuperSport Restoration (18 footer)

What are you guys using to laminate the two 3/4" pieces for the transom?

I used Titebond III Waterproof, but there are several others including using whatever epoxy you end up going with, 3M 5200, PL Concrete Adhesive....

 

[brobrad]

Re: Starcraft SuperSport Restoration (18 footer)

I used Titebond III Waterproof, but there are several others including using whatever epoxy you end up going with, 3M 5200, PL Concrete Adhesive....

I wasn't sure the 5200 would work to laminate. I may just use the epoxy. My concern there was it not curing sandwhiched in between the layers.

 

[jasoutside]

Re: Starcraft SuperSport Restoration (18 footer)

I wasn't sure the 5200 would work to laminate. I may just use the epoxy. My concern there was it not curing sandwhiched in between the layers.

Yah, 5200 would be big $$$. I used Titebond III as I had it on hand, worked great. I wanted to save my epoxy for other stuff down the road which was the only reason I didn't go that route.

Cheers!

 

[HopeSheFloats]

Re: Starcraft SuperSport Restoration (18 footer)

I used the PL Premium adhesive, troweled it on and screwed the pieces together from the transom skin side, after it cured I removed the screws and filled the holes with epoxy, then a couple of coats of epoxy on both sides followed by 2 coats of epoxy paint on the side that shows...US Comp epoxy 3-1 worked awesome in my book btw, I had great coverage, absorption, etc with it.

 

[deadstriper]

Re: Starcraft SuperSport Restoration (18 footer)

If only you wanted to drive clear across the country, I could trade you my motorhome

 

[sprintst]

Re: Starcraft SuperSport Restoration (18 footer)

I used epoxy thickened with cabosil. That stuff spread with a small 1/8 notched trowel bonded those sheets together to the point that they are one piece at the molecular level I'm sure.

I'm impressed with the thickened epoxy to the point where I will be using it everywhere. If a tooth cracks I'm using this stuff for sure

 

[brobrad]

Re: Starcraft SuperSport Restoration (18 footer)

I used epoxy thickened with cabosil. That stuff spread with a small 1/8 notched trowel bonded those sheets together to the point that they are one piece at the molecular level I'm sure.

I'm impressed with the thickened epoxy to the point where I will be using it everywhere. If a tooth cracks I'm using this stuff for sure

Yes, i've done some reading on the cabosil. It looks like a very good option. I've just got to go get the lumber.

I started with the MEK on the glue. It seems that the one container i bought may not be enough, but it really works well. I tried it with gloves and a rag, but i think i'm gonna put it in a fine sprayer to cover small areas and work on it.

 

[sprintst]

Re: Starcraft SuperSport Restoration (18 footer)

Excellent. I was looking for a confirmation on the MEK. Where did you get yours. I was going to hit a body shop supply joint.

 

[Doh]

Re: Starcraft SuperSport Restoration (18 footer)

I grew up in that exact boat.

It was over powered before my Dad bought it. A 140hp With trim Tabs.

My Dad bought a New 1979 115 Johnson V4 for the back of "That Boat"

3 years later, it developped "Rib Cracks" on most every Rib" from the wheel back.

1100 Rivets later, it held water. The "New 115 Johnson" had blown 1 cylinder due to head gasket, by that time.

Check the end of the ribs, specially if it has trim tabs. The CSV hull doesn't handle the stress of Tabs or Over HP.

 

[brobrad]

Re: Starcraft SuperSport Restoration (18 footer)

Excellent. I was looking for a confirmation on the MEK. Where did you get yours. I was going to hit a body shop supply joint.

Hey, i got mine at a Hardware/Marine supply store. I would suspect that HD or their competitor would have it.

 

[brobrad]

Re: Starcraft SuperSport Restoration (18 footer)

I grew up in that exact boat.

It was over powered before my Dad bought it. A 140hp With trim Tabs.

My Dad bought a New 1979 115 Johnson V4 for the back of "That Boat"

3 years later, it developped "Rib Cracks" on most every Rib" from the wheel back.

1100 Rivets later, it held water. The "New 115 Johnson" had blown 1 cylinder due to head gasket, by that time.

Check the end of the ribs, specially if it has trim tabs. The CSV hull doesn't handle the stress of Tabs or Over HP.

I'll take a look at that. I do not have trim tabs and personally i think the 115 is large enough. I have a v4 115 (73 model). I will probably put it on there if i don't find another one i can afford. When you say rib cracks, do you mean it was flexing at the ribs and caused stress fractures in the Hull???

 

[brobrad]

Re: Starcraft SuperSport Restoration (18 footer)

Good Morning,

I got up at five and started working with the MEK. That stuff loads the rag up with glue pretty quickly. It has to be folded constantly and then thrown away. Much of the glue is (i believe) original glue and is very dry. It takes a lot of elbow grease to get this stuff off, but it does come off. Someone was very liberal with the glue especially along the bottom rivets along the sides. that will be a lot of fun to get off where i can put on the gluvit.

 

[brobrad]

Re: Starcraft SuperSport Restoration (18 footer)

Spent several hours in the SS yester evening (until about 11:00 last night). T-storms put a halt to my MEK work so i backed it under the garage and took out the 200 screws in the transom to remove it. It was rotted, but the glass held it together enough to come out in two pieces. I had to take the whole splash well out (only about 30 rivets) because it was so messed up on the front edge. I'll post pics later when i get my internet going at home again. The lightening got the router and eithernet card for the 3rd time this year.

With the splash well out, it should make the initial transom install and floor installation pretty easy. There are a million little screws around the top side holding this and that on and they use 3-1/2 inchers to hold it on through only about a 1/4 inch of sheet metal. it was a real pain.

I'm with EZ on the board at the stern with 100 screws and bolts going through it. I had to pull it out as well last night. In thinking on the top side paint, do you guys usually just tape the trim out our take it off to paint it. There are a lot of rivets to drill if you do, but it wouldn't be too bad.

The original paint was still very good under my bimini top rails. IT used to look like the General Lee with a good burnt orange look. I'm thinking of going back with a blue or yellow.

Anyway, i hope to finish the glue removal this weekend and get her all washed out good for the gluvit.

P.S. the bow rail brackets are all shot (chrome peeling), where's the best place to get the replacements.

 

[brobrad]

Re: Starcraft SuperSport Restoration (18 footer)

Here's the pics of last nights work i mentioned above.

 

[HopeSheFloats]

Re: Starcraft SuperSport Restoration (18 footer)

Here's the pics of last nights work i mentioned above.

try again Brobrad, something didn't take

 

[brobrad]

Re: Starcraft SuperSport Restoration (18 footer)

try again Brobrad, something didn't take

Yeah, i'm having difficulty with the internet as well as realizing my Photobucket photos were too large. I'll have to do more research to get that right.

 

[brobrad]

Re: Starcraft SuperSport Restoration (18 footer)

I found the arcua (3/4") at a place of "low" customer service. It wasn't priced too bad, but i'm gonna get the transom cut out soon. I don't have a great pattern from the rotted old transom. I will probably do it out of cardboard first. I also got several sanding blocks as i see that it is going to be fun.

 

[brobrad]

Re: Starcraft SuperSport Restoration (18 footer)

Got the leak test done this afternoon, and only had a few rivets that leaked very slowly. I'm not going to tighten them i'm just going to use the gluvit. Got the new transom board cut, glued and screwed. It was a tight fit. I'll do a little sanding and shaping as i had to cut it from a cardboard pattern i cut from the old rotted transom. I'll slip it in and predrill my drain holes, bolt holes and the mounting holes. I opted to use liguid nail (exterior) and smooth it out with a trowel for maxium surface adhesion.

I will order my epoxy in the morning and pickup some more MEK. The 90 plus weather didn't let the MEK last very long. I only have a little glue left and i'll get her cleaned up for the Gluvit.

I have to make up my mind on floatation as well. I need to find some blue or pink board or a source on about 75 noodles. My lowes did not stock it for some reason.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Starcraft SuperSport Restoration (18 footer)

Looks good so far! Isn't that Arauco nice?

 

[brobrad]

Re: Starcraft SuperSport Restoration (18 footer)

Looks good so far! Isn't that Arauco nice?

Yes Sir,

It is fine stuff. It has absolutely no voids. I looked at the GP stuff that was exterior and the whole bunk of lumber had voids on every exposed side. The only concern with the Arauco is that it is soft and light-weight. I will reinforce it with some vertical angle pieces that i have from another project.

I think i am going to use some angle across the stringers to straighten them up. They are leaning pretty bad from the extremely rotted floor. I think it was used for while with some really rotten wood.

Hey EZ, did you just tape out your aluminum trim on the top side or did you remove it before painting.

Got the rivets, rivet tool, and epoxy ordered today. Three baseball games and soccer practice will keep me from getting much done this week, but its all good