plastic gear on 200 h.p. Mercury xri

Dukedog

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Re: plastic gear on 200 h.p. Mercury xri

???? If your motor had tha "so called" smaller od bushing and your had ta order tha right one how would ya go "bout it. If it was a recall It would break Merc.

Hell, that's what I refer to as tha BOTTOM bushing............Actually its tha ONLY bushing in tha oiler.
 
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sam am I

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Re: plastic gear on 200 h.p. Mercury xri

Well, geeeesh, top, bottom, inside, outside.........This is then the "top", it's part of the drive shaft on the left. There ain't no more...... It's a bushing too or runs as one, there's no bearings in what I have. But, pretty sure the brass/bronze one is the monster he is referring too...Top or Bottom or True or not, IDK.

At any rate..........I'm not debating ordering part etc, just looking into things.

SAM_3556_1.jpg
 
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Dukedog

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Re: plastic gear on 200 h.p. Mercury xri

That one is a bearing assy.

Information sometimes gets screwed up easily now days. Friend a mine has a BIG sign hangin' in his shop. Says "If ya don't know tha answer, don't make one up. This ain't tha INTERNET"..............:laugh:
 

sam am I

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Re: plastic gear on 200 h.p. Mercury xri

Looks, tastes, feeling bushing to me....Regardless, IF it's true Dog,........one of the two, top or bottom, left or right might have been changed. I really don't know, just looking into it.

oilPumpDwg.JPG
 
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Dukedog

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Re: plastic gear on 200 h.p. Mercury xri

Late on tha right coast......Good nite...................
 
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sam am I

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Re: plastic gear on 200 h.p. Mercury xri

After thought, it must be the "coupling bushing", (merc's language, not mine) he refers too as the "top bushing" and as Dog did refer to as the "top" as well.


I say that because he says "through the block", and "flanged" so it must be the coupling bushing as it goes "through the block" so to speak and it flanges, the "lower" bushing is merely pressed in a seat that ends and is not flanged.....

Well then AND IF this is true.....those are easy to check, just pop off the oil pump and you're looking right at the pump side of the "flange end" face where this elusive symbol might be.

Mine does NOT have any markings/symbols on the "flange end"....pump side I assume. But I looked on the engine side as well. However, there are numbers on the engine side of the non-flanged side....I'll post those tomorrow

SAM_3575_a.JPG

This coupling bushing just slips on/off the end of the drive shaft, Assume they're all plastic(oh crap, here we go) as mine is and contains the magnet(drawing shows this) in-bedded in it(black dot in pic) for the hall effect sensor to pick up that indicates rotation to the warning module. The OD is 0.610"

Again, if this is true, this could be worth a call to merc, to confirm and/or.. Perhaps someone has a new ordered one in hand they can measure and confirm a symbol and post?

Not sure this is any form of solution or help as mine is not marked, therefor assumed old and never failed but, I never run over 6K, usually 5K normally, and never overheated, or under oiled

SAM_3558_a.jpg

Maybe something in this nightmare helps moff.......
 
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Dukedog

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Re: plastic gear on 200 h.p. Mercury xri

1984 part number...
41429A 2
BEARING ASSEMBLY

1999 part number...
41429A 2
BEARING ASSEMBLY

No serial numbers specified. Same thing used in tha ProMax. Know a few of those that are constantly turned over 6500.. Just can't buy MM changin' something and NOT changin' tha number. But hey, its MM, so who really knows?

moffett cr...Hope ya got something outta all this crap! :facepalm:
 

sam am I

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Re: plastic gear on 200 h.p. Mercury xri

Just can't buy MM changin' something and NOT changin' tha number. But hey, its MM, so who really knows?


Duke, et al,

After digging in the "cloud" a tad.....


Merc Bulletin_Page_1.jpg Merc Bulletin_Page_2.jpg Merc Bulletin_Page_3.jpgMerc Bulletin_Page_4.jpg
 
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sam am I

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Re: plastic gear on 200 h.p. Mercury xri

Merc Bulletin_Page_5.jpgMerc Bulletin_Page_6.jpg

They didn't change the part number per-se but, did in fact, change a part out as indicated by a "obscure" marking/s under the same part number.........sneaky eh? So, I'm pretty sure that new marked "x" part with the SAME part number, is in fact different from what they took out and is what we are buying/receiving today, and it appears the jet motor wasn't the issue?........Must have had an issue looks like w perhaps a bad batch that only went in these motors? The bulletin never states "why" to change it though........lol. Mums the word here on what went wrong? Also wonder what the failure mode on the jets were too!!

Is the new one with the proper markings we are perhaps receiving these days in fact small in diameter as the rumor in #18 has it? And the jet's bore here was just a tad tighter or something where pulling them all and replacing them all with the infamous "X" part fixed the issue?

Anyway, this seems suspiciously relating back to post #18, thought I'd bump this/share.........Interesting eh?.


My # "2" pictured above doesn't make the cut as far as the service bulletin goes.....bummer but, I guess it's ok because it's not one of those sport jets?:facepalm: Would it had failed if it were in fact a jet of this era thou? Hmmmmmmm, the plot thickens.

It lasted 23 yrs though along w its gear:D. so I guess it was okay....moot point I reckon. But as stated, I never overheated or under-oiled or went above 6K. I have a new one on order at any rate, I'll measure it and post a picture when I get it since It does appear they are all the same part number but do have different marking/s now for whatever mysterious reason.

Thicken it even more? ahhhhhh, maybe not so much....., dug this up too...call it "grain of salt 2" I suppose but, the fisrt grain appears somewhat ligit now eh?

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"Here's what I've learned about oil injection after working on outboards since 1982:


2nd note while we're on the subject of oil injection, the plastic/nylon (not sure of spelling of actual material used so we'll go with that) gear used on the crankshaft is not the guilty culprit when a failure occurs. You automatically assume it is when you see the gear damaged, but in reality it's the brass bushing that causes the train crash. The brass swells from excess heat (several things cause this) and binds on the steel shaft which in turns slows the shaft down and puts a greater pressure on the nylon gear causing shearing of the nylon. Mercury Engineering chose to use a nylon gear to prevent internal damage should a steel gear fail.... and when the nylon gear fails it causes what, slight damage???"

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

"Excess heat"? "Several things cause this"?.........lol, he means like turning 7K? Bad water pump? Low water pressure? Plugged water jackets? Low/No oil?..........Neglect? Cause and Effect?


So according to this guy(worked on 1, 2 or 100K+ since 1982, IDK!....."grain of salt 2", I'm just reporting the news) now it's back to the brass/bottom bushing? and not the top? But, a common thread in both here and #18!!........"overheat" and "expansion" in bushing/s binding up the shaft causing the failure. I'm sure there are other failure modes like with anything else when more variables are put into the same equation but, I think those are tending to be outliers, this "binding shaft" however seems to be the center of the bell curve and to be resonating a lil louder then the rest......IMO/research.
 
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Dukedog

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Re: plastic gear on 200 h.p. Mercury xri

View attachment 226001View attachment 226002

They didn't change the part number per-se but, did in fact, change a part out as indicated by a "obscure" marking/s under the same part number.........sneaky eh? So, I'm pretty sure that new marked "x" part with the SAME part number, is in fact different from what they took out and is what we are buying/receiving today, and it appears the jet motor wasn't the issue?........Must have had an issue looks like w perhaps a bad batch that only went in these motors?


175 "Sport Jet" specific. Probably a parts manufacture screw up. Size, material or who knows? (rice shortage!, over time siesta).......so actually tha part never changed from what was originally specified (maybe?) other than someone's screw up...........

Ina case like this usually tha "bad" stuff is discarded and replace with tha "good" stuff (identifying mark ta make sure) to be installed in production or by dealers after tha sale but never changin' tha part number. Tha "marked" part is what tha original part was supposed ta be from THAT parts builder ............So if you ordered a new part with tha listed part number you would (should) get tha one with tha "mark" on it or possibly from a "different" manufacture without tha MARK.......

Overheat, no mater how minor or cause, takes a toll on these things (tha whole power head) and seems ta be tha main reason ta cause most rotating assy. problems directly or indirectly. Tha rpm's won't even come inta play with tha stock "sport jet". Its "electronically" limited 'cause of tha pump................

Keep diggin'. It seems ta keep ya occupied!.............
 
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sam am I

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Re: plastic gear on 200 h.p. Mercury xri

It seems ta keep ya occupied!.............

SAM_3782a.jpgSAM_3855a.jpgSAM_3857a.jpg

Well there is a method to all this madness and it's just about done(minus one more small'ish mod) . Been interesting to say the least.

Closing the book on this BS and being occupied w fishing is where I'm headed!! ;)

Gosh, I hope I remembered to tighten ALL those connecting rod cap bolts...........doh!!
 
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wired247

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Re: plastic gear on 200 h.p. Mercury xri

Sam, You might want to at least get some zip ties on that tygon.
 

jiffyboat

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Re: plastic gear on 200 h.p. Mercury xri

the best favor you can make to yourself and to your mercury two stroke is removing the oil injection system and premix, replacing the gear is almost like rebuilding the motor .. make a favor to yourself and premix and your motor will last for many years.. as mechanic I have rebuild many mercuries and most of the fail by a the oil gear .. when you listen to the alarm usually is late and the damage was done
 
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sam am I

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Re: plastic gear on 200 h.p. Mercury xri

Made it 23 yrs with one that never broke, going for another 23........lucky I guess.
 
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moffett cr.

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Re: plastic gear on 200 h.p. Mercury xri

What rpm do you run at or try and keep it under?
 

sam am I

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Re: plastic gear on 200 h.p. Mercury xri

I've always ran/run it anywhere 3500 to 4000(about 40 MPH )for long runs depending on wind and water of course but, never over 5000...just at 5000 for short spurts. I'm not in too big of a hurry usually I guess. I would also let it warm up to around a steady pee before I wind it up, it was never overheated or ran low on oil. Ran 92 or higher octane and TC-W3 oil :noidea:

Just got the new re-build (0.015" bored over)out few days ago...............runs sooooo sweeeet!!

Here's the 23 yr old gear.........

SAM_3854a.jpg

and the reason I tore it down....was still pushing 90-100 PSI, leak down gone thou

SAM_3460a.jpg

And the new Frankenmerc.....:eek:

SAM_3918a.jpg
 
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wired247

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Re: plastic gear on 200 h.p. Mercury xri

I like the plastic oil drive gears. You can get good deals on motors that have used them. They usually have a few good rods and some other internal parts that arent beat up too much. Even the blocks can usually be fixed.

I cant make it on the water without smacking 7000+ RPM a few times. The oil injection doesnt work well for my type of recreational boating. If I was putting around under 6K I'd use the oil injector.
 

moffett cr.

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Re: plastic gear on 200 h.p. Mercury xri

I have got up around 70mph a couple times but was to busy hanging on to see what i was tacking. I have been running quicksilver,i guess it will be ok?
 
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