*ding*...You've got oil

Offrddrver

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Sep 19, 2009
Messages
95
BruceB, Pantz,

Just my thoughts here, I'm not trying to argue, just bringing up seals purpose.....
1. If no seal was in place at all, then your grease will get from your gimble bearing into the bilge area.......over time and depending how often you grease your gimble bearing.
2. If no seal was in place and the u-joint bellows fails.....you get a rush of water in, instead of no water, or a trickle rate. (Same idea as the first seal on the drive side; without it water would have free entry into the top end of the out drive if the u-joint bellows got a hole in it.)
3. I agree with BruceB it also keeps dirt/debris from entering from the bilge area into the drive shaft and gimble area.

I agree this is not a show stopper, but I kindly disagree that it is only a dirt seal.

Sorry to repeat, but in my case a good seal with a good motor to gimble alignment has greatly reduced the amount of water I'm getting into the bilge now that my u-joint bellows has a hole in it (before I patched the bellows). As noted earlier, my heavily damaged gimble seal (when I bought my boat) let in a lot of water into the bilge when my bellows got a hole in it.

Here is why I bring it up that Pantz may want to replace it with the gimble bearing that is soon to arrive.
If he doesn't replace it now, the repair manual notes that pulling the gimble bearing (and seal) damage them and they must be replaced.
It is a $12.18 part that may help, but if not replaced now, then he would have to replace a $40 to $85.00 gimble bearing now, and then replace another gimble bearing and seal again later if he chooses the seal is something he wants in place.

If you, Pantz, do or don't replace it, then I agree with Bruce it is NOT a show stopper.

As with me now (with the patched hole in my u-joint bellows), we have to gamble on how long we take to repair the known bad parts. In my case I'm waiting until ~October as I know I only have a few boating runs between now and then, and I also know from the past that the parts are already rusted so my work doesn't change now or later, nor does my cost of repair now or later.

As always, your call brother.

Offrddrver
 

pantaloonz

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Nov 28, 2014
Messages
237
As usual the information here is incredibly useful

The seal, is .. sealed in good :) but it's been damaged and rubber did come off (o-ring), now maybe that's residual to the bearing, maybe it's the seal, maybe there is not supposed to be an o-ring in there at all and the P.O. or helper tossed one in there to "stem" a leaking issue not wanting to replace the gimbal and seal.

In any event: I will look over the new seal when it comes and make my decision based on what I see for existing, and what the new stuff looks like. With the appropriate tool and some muscle (of which I have more than brains most times) I can get the seal out.

New Seal, New Gimbal, Alignment, and cleaned up universals, I'll make it to the fall. :)

-- offtopic: Some sites have a rating or system to check when people have really helped them out. does iboats do that sort of thing?
 

Offrddrver

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Sep 19, 2009
Messages
95
No Title

My 3-Jaw puller.

I just realized that I had to take two kits and make one kit to fit the OMC gimble bearing and seal requirements.

I suggest a kit with longer fingers on the puller if you can find one. I had the loner puller fingers from some other kit.

For what its worth, here is what I use.
 

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bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 5, 2006
Messages
30,478
I agree this is not a show stopper, but I kindly disagree that it is only a dirt seal.
It's what DonS used to say.

It won't keep water in the bellows or water out of the bellows for that matter.

If it really is that damaged, I would likely change it too.
 
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bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 5, 2006
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30,478
As with me now (with the patched hole in my u-joint bellows), we have to gamble on how long we take to repair the known bad parts. In my case I'm waiting until ~October as I know I only have a few boating runs between now and then, and I also know from the past that the parts are already rusted so my work doesn't change now or later, nor does my cost of repair now or later.
Running on patched u-joint bellows? Seriously? Why not change it?
 

pantaloonz

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 28, 2014
Messages
237
Quick update, ..

Seal just came in.. definitely need to replace, this one has a nice spring, good rubber and now seeing a new one versus what I got in there.. Oh yeah. that's a must swap.

-Pantz
 

Offrddrver

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Sep 19, 2009
Messages
95
BruceB,

Because it kind of ruins your twins birthday party plans of boating with friends if you pull out the drive while waiting for parts over their birthday!

Because I have maybe three runs left between now and October due to sporting events played by four of the five members of my family! (and school is back in)

Because bills are tight due to vehicle repairs, blown TV, kids braces, wife's crown replacement, my 30 year old filling needing replaced, medical bills and LIFE. (and it doesn't fit in this months budget) Now, most American's will now ask....."What's a budget?"

And because it works short term! Risk Vs. Reward

And this reply only because you showed concern..... that's why!

"Seriously", yes.....Seriously.

There you go brother.....enjoy your boating. I know I will.

Offrddrver
 

bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 5, 2006
Messages
30,478
Just hope you realize it may cost you more in the long run. That is a couple hour job including pulling the drive. Did you at least pull the drive to get all the water out before patching it? And yes, it may cost you more later if the water in the bellows rusts out your driveshaft and wipes out the seal going into the drive.

And hopefully, someone who reads this does not try the same thing!
 
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Offrddrver

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Sep 19, 2009
Messages
95
Pantz,

I think your making a good call on the seal, and I'm glad you see the comparison. A good seal has helped me, so with good alignment it may help you in the future also.

Best of luck, and take your time getting it in.

Offrddrver
 

Offrddrver

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Sep 19, 2009
Messages
95
BruceB,

I fully understand the risk with water in the bellows. I had this happen about 14 years ago shortly after I bought the boat. It surface rusted everything in there, just as I have pointed out to several others on this web site. It took a lot of cleaning back then, but it survived.

I didn't have to pull the drive this time, just loosen the band clamp, pull back the boot a couple inches, and stuff (pig) rags in the boot to soak up the water.
Clean up, RTV, and Test.....In my case for one run, it has worked. That was the whole purpose.

You say its only a couple hours.....That's great if you have the parts on hand, but I don't, hence the "short term" repair for my kids birthday party. If it makes it 3 more runs then great. If it fails then I have choices to make.

Bruce, my whole point of what I wrote was to tell Pantz that we all have to think about the RISK of not making a proper/complete fix when we find an issue.
Then I gave my opinion why I thought it would save him money to replace the seal now instead of later. And gave points how it might help should the bellows fail.

In my case with patching the bellows......I know its not the best idea, but because of timing, I took the "short term" risk.

This is no different from you telling Pantz the following: "If you decide to not replace that seal, you aren't going to miss much."

Neither your suggestion to Pantz, nor my patch of the bellows is the "correct fix", but as we were both suggesting, its up to Pantz (or others) to make the right call for their situation, for their time frame, and for their money.

All I ask anybody reading these posts is that they better think through their specific issues step by step and they better also understand that a wrong choice may cost them in the future. If they know that, then best of luck.

Like you, I'm only here to help.

I like helping Pantz because we have the same boat, and in 14+ years I've seen many of the issues he is dealing with.
I only hope to keep him from making the same mistakes I did when I was first getting into boating.

I hope all is good Bruce, have a good one.
 

Offrddrver

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Sep 19, 2009
Messages
95
Bruce,

Thanks for post #89 and the link. Will that tool fit between the OMC gimble bearing and gimble seal? Or do you try to go through both at the same time and pull them together? I only ask as it is very tight between those two parts. I know this because I had to shave down my 3-Jaw puller "fingers" to fit between the two parts. I pull the bearing first and then the seal with the same tools.

Just so Pantz gets a clear picture for OMC Cobra application.

Thanks

Offrdddrver
 

bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 5, 2006
Messages
30,478
I think you missed where I said he should replace the seal since it is not intact.

I have not used that tool yet so not sure if it can fit between the bearing and the seal. I would think it would.

I currently have a Volvo Sx but it is identical to the Cobra which I have also done the bearing on.

No need to change the seal when the bearing is done since it doesn't do much.
 
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bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 5, 2006
Messages
30,478
This is what DonS said about the seal:
Re: SX Cobra, Gimbal seal removal


Throw it away. That seal is only a dust seal, it doesn't keep water out or grease in. Just the dirt out of the bearing.
 

pantaloonz

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 28, 2014
Messages
237
Well

I changed the seal.. that was not fun.. using pullers was atrocious. I wound up following a procudure on the Tube whereabout you use a dremel to scar away a piece of the seal then use your pullers once it's been thorougly compromised. I won't change it again, unless hell freezes over or Bondo stops using grease in his sig.

The alignment tool got hung up at UPS.. doesnt much matter tho we got a darn typhoon in the middle of my work so I called it on the account of rain.

Gimbal tomorrow night, hopefully alignment tool finds it's way to me

-Pantz
 

bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 5, 2006
Messages
30,478
You don't use a puller for the grease seal. You pry it out and then grab with pliers an yank it out.

Now you can see why I don't bother with it.
 

pantaloonz

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 28, 2014
Messages
237
It was a serious pain...looking today the seal at 7'o'clock isn't flish ...so if I can't drive it In place fully I'm gonna pry it out and discard it.

I have to get over being too "easy" on certain repairs..I plan to set the driver in place and give it a few "real man" hits. I thought I hit it plenty hard last night. .but the lighting was poor so I missed it..

It's like a 16th or 32nd of an inch out .probably won't matter but I want the gimbal to sit right so that bleeping seal is going in flush whether it likes it or not.

I certainly hope this thread helps others. Varying degrees of opinions/tools/options are truly what makes this site so helpful!!

-pantz
 

Offrddrver

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Sep 19, 2009
Messages
95
Pantz,

Bummer deal brother. I've also had a pain removing it both times, but it installed fairly easy both times.
At least you have the bad one out so it doesn't get into your bearing if it would have come apart.

I used the 3-Jaw puller (from my pics) to start pulling it up, then due to the thin metal it bends and the puller won't stay hooked. I then use those bent pieces of the seal that aren't seated against the gimble housing to pry it (twist it) out with a gripping tool.

Sorry if you feel misled. Just trying to help based on past experience with my 92 F.W.Cobra and only based on things that have worked for me.
If it didn't work for me I wouldn't have shared.
If I see you going to do something that has failed me I'll give my bad experience as something I wouldn't recommend.

Keep up the battle, it'll feel good when you get several years in a row without repairs and only lube changes and general preventative maintenance.

Offrddrver
 

pantaloonz

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 28, 2014
Messages
237
I have not been misled in any way. the lip of the seal is not sufficient for pullers. in retrospect I would have been more careful in prying it out as I scarred the housing a little bit. probably the scarring is causing the new seal to not want to go in, that's spilled milk.. either I'll get in set in place or it's coming out!

the gimbal bearing is going in the freezer when I get home * while I coax the seal in..

the alignment tool was dropped off, going to be a fun night.
 

pantaloonz

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 28, 2014
Messages
237
UPDATE:

Was able to flush the seal in place. It was sketchy but it's in and looks GREAT!

Bearing is in, it was nice and cold, oiled up the housing as instructed and lined up the grease hole! yay!

Got the tool

DUN DUN DAH>>>

It doesn't go in. The tool is hitting the coupler in the 1 oclock position (marked in grease) I drew a little picture, first drawing is looking down on the alignment tool, the 2nd drawing is where the grease got left on the coupler, the third is where the grease is missing from the alignment tool

It's hitting in the top of the coupler, that would mean the engine is too low correct?

-- so first job is to raise the front mounts so the tool can get in there, then I continue working from there?

I read another thread that said if the tool is hitting at 1 oclock, the engine it "too high" that doesnt make sense to me?

-Pantz
20150813_191715.jpg
 
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