70's era 15' Yarcraft yankee project question

[oba97]

No Title

Here is the after shot of the filter

 

[Woodonglass]

GREAT!!! Looks like it's working!!!

 

[oba97]

I have a questions about keeping the stringers off the hull. I am planning on using 1/4" foam spacers but for the center stringer it sits down in the V of the hull. How do I keep that stringer up? The two outside stringers are easy because the sit on a flat surface but the center doesn't seem straightforward to me.

 

[TruckDrivingFool]

I'd say that if your foam spacers are in strip form lay them in so that they are perpendicular to you stringer and form them to the V. They will still space the keel board up.

 

[oba97]

I have been making some good progress but am at a spot I have to get some insight. I made my center stringer out of 3/4 ply and was able to use the old one as a template so I am confident that I have the correct shape. Here is my issue, I have a 1/4" foam spacer at the front and back of the stringer but the rest of the stringer does not come close to sitting in the hull. In some places there is about an inch space from the hull to the bottom of the stringer. Is this ok as I don't want it to touch in the first place? When I was cutting the old one out there was lots of space between the hull and stringer for me to get my blade in.

 

[Woodonglass]

Got Pics?/

 

[oba97]

No Title

Ask and you shall receive . Hopefully you can see from the pics what I am talking about. I lined up the old stringer with the new to confirm that they are a match and they are. I did have to taper the tip a bit. Based on what you see and experience should I measure every foot and make a new one or keep it like original? It touches at the front and back but nowhere in the middle. The largest space is about an inch (maybe a tad more)

 

[Woodonglass]

Yeah, well you're just gunna have to use a bit more PB when you bed it in and call it good. Sometimes using the old one for a pattern is not the most reliable method.

 

[oba97]

Do you think I would be better off just building a new one from my own measurements rather ten using a ton of PB?

 

[Woodonglass]

Either way. It's up to you. You could Scab a 1" piece of wood onto the bottom and then trim to fit too!!! Once it's glassed in the Glass is what carries the Load. The wood is basically just the "Form/Mold" for the glass. It does carry some of the load as well but if you do a good job of glassing and use two layers of 1708 even if the wood rots away the glass will support the hull just fine!!!

 

[oba97]

Thank you. I am using Epoxy with the plan of putting 2 layers of 17oz biax on the stringers and the transom. Based on your above post I assume this should be fine. Do you know how thick the two layers of 17oz will be?

 

[Woodonglass]

Just slightly less than 1/8" I'm Guess-Ti-Mating!!! I know that sounds thin but...With epoxy and Biax...It will be extremely strong!!!! Just make sure the hull is prepped and you get a good bond.

 

[oba97]

Excellent. Thanks for your help

 

[oba97]

No Title

similar to the stringer question...if there is a gap between the bottom of the transom and the hull of roughly 1" do I need to fill the 1" high x 1.5" deep void full of PB or can I just make a fillet for the layup (not completely filling the area) knowing that there will be open space behind the fillet.

I hope this makes sense.

 

[Woodonglass]

Fill it!!!

 

[oba97]

WOG, I really do appreciate all the guidance you have provided. It's a little nerve wracking never having done this before. Even after watching a lot of videos and reading a ton of posts I still have a hard time keeping things straight in my head.

Here goes another question then I should be set for a bit (ya right).

With epoxy I can do my fillets and when they kick I can tab followed by two layers of full glassing all in one 'session' right? Or do I fillet (let it cure), tab (let it cure) then do my two layers of 17oz?

 

[Woodonglass]

Epoxy takes a bit longer to kick off so it's a bit harder to do multiple lay ups. It's also a bit harder to do verticals since the epoxy has a tendency to want to settle to the bottom overtime so you have to "Babysit" it and keep rolling/brushing it back to the top of the vertical surface in order not to have a resin starved layup at the top. You can help it by adding a bit of cabosil to the mix and making it a bit thicker but it still take about two to three times longer for it to kick than polyester does. So you're gunna have to wait a couple of hours or so between layups. I'd plan on doing my fillets and tabbings one day and the full layer layups the next day. If you were using poly, you could do em all the same day. That's another reason I like using Poly, It's sooooo much faster.

 

[Woodonglass]

deleted duplicate post

 

[Woodonglass]

deleted duplicate post

 

[oba97]

So from what I understand from reading US composites and your advice I would put my first layer of 17oz wait a few hours (between when it set's and cures, still tacky) then I can do my second layer of 17oz?