5th Wheel Owners..Help..

[MTboatguy]

The fridge won't overload it, they run at less that 15 amps so no worries at all with the fridge, the biggest problem with the A/C is the compressor when it starts ups, once it gets going, it takes less than 15 amps also. The fridge has no compressor, so no start up surge like your home fridge, it is a simple heating element that goes and causes the ammonia compound that heats up and starts the evaporation cycle to make things cold. The A/C is a R134a system, so it needs that compressor to get things moving.

In RV fridges it works completely backwards from what you think, the fridge absorbs heat and in absence of heat you have only cold left, the A/C as our home fridges do, displace heat hence the compressor to blow the cold air to displace the heat.

 

[WIMUSKY]

Fridge is running. Quiet. Can't even hear it. Seems to be working. I know the freezer is...... Cord is cold. "The guy" is on his way over to fix the slide out. Time for a slide out fix 'em up lesson.... Boy I hope it quits when "he" runs it......

 

[MTboatguy]

Fridge is running. Quiet. Can't even hear it. Seems to be working. I know the freezer is...... Cord is cold. "The guy" is on his way over to fix the slide out. Time for a slide out fix 'em up lesson.... Boy I hope it quits when "he" runs it......

You shouldn't hear the fridge, there are no moving parts in it to hear, it is all done with heat.

 

[WIMUSKY]

Well, "the guy" came over yesterday. It wasn't an adjustment. The clutch or brake in the motor isn't releasing in the closed position. He had to manually wrench the motor to release the brake/clutch, then it worked by pushing the switch. So the last guy that worked on it said it was the bell that needed adjusting didn't know what he was talking about and the previous owner paid $200 for nothing. A new motor has been ordered. It's a warranty item that will still fall under the previous owner since I haven't transferred it yet... Should get here at the end of the week..... Frig works fine.... Trailer is still plugged in....

 

[MTboatguy]

I was wondering, those motors and gears are normally guaranteed for up to 5 years.

 

[WIMUSKY]

When you lube the arms for the slide outs, do you do both or just the rack/pinion? Looks like they haven't been lubed in a while, no sign at all...

 

[MTboatguy]

Depending on how they set them up, you might want to put some liquid spray grease on them, we normally lube the guides, but I have never seen the set up on this particular type of trailer, do you know what brand of slide it has in it?

 

[WIMUSKY]

They're supposed to be lubed with a dry lube spray. I see Liquid Wrench makes a spray for RV slide outs. I picked up their standard dry lube. I'm sure it's the same stuff. Sounds like the rack and pinion needs to be lubed around the whole tube. The other arm is square. Not sure if that should be lubed too. No idea the make...

 

[MTboatguy]

Dry lube spray is good, keeps the mess down, with the dry lube spray I would go ahead and spray it, just don't overdo it, I spoke with Keystone today to see what they were using a couple of years ago and found out, it is probably a RBH or an ATWOOD system for your slide, they were interested to know the exact problem you were having with it, if it is just that it sticks in when it is retracted they were saying it might be that the slide rams are a bit short causing the rams to jam a small bit when retracted. Hopefully the tech will be able to install the new parts and it works like a dream. If not, then give me a holler, I might be able to get you a new ram set up if needed.

 

[WIMUSKY]

Dry lube spray is good, keeps the mess down, with the dry lube spray I would go ahead and spray it, just don't overdo it, I spoke with Keystone today to see what they were using a couple of years ago and found out, it is probably a RBH or an ATWOOD system for your slide, they were interested to know the exact problem you were having with it, if it is just that it sticks in when it is retracted they were saying it might be that the slide rams are a bit short causing the rams to jam a small bit when retracted. Hopefully the tech will be able to install the new parts and it works like a dream. If not, then give me a holler, I might be able to get you a new ram set up if needed.

Thanks for the info, MT. No word on the new motor yet. Was supposed to arrive this week. It acts up after it's closed. When trying to extend you can hear it clicking. According to the mechanic, he had to manually break it loose by turning a bolt on the motor. Then the switch worked fine. It's always been the starboard side. The port side hasn't failed yet. As mentioned, its's like the clutch or a brake within the motor isn't releasing....

Was messing with the trailer a little today. Water heater, pump, faucets, shower , stove top, tv, stereo, all lights, toilet work. Appears I got all the RV anti freeze out of it. Still need to clean the fresh water tank with bleach. Haven't checked the furnace. Too dang hot outside. Humidity is nasty today..... Can't check the air. I do need a filter for it, looks nasty.

 

[MTboatguy]

I would not use bleach there have been instances of it eating seals in the water pump head, I use a product put out by Camco to clean and freshen up the tank, works good, not toxic and has no real perceivable taste to it you can pick up and most RV shops as well as Wal Mart and other big retailers that have RV sections.

http://www. amazon .com/Camco-40206-TastePURE-Drinking-Freshener/dp/B000BQLQYM

 

[WIMUSKY]

We plan on just using the fresh water for everything but drinking. I'll check on the Camco..... I suppose if we have water hook up we'll drink that, it will bypass the tank.....

 

[MTboatguy]

We plan on just using the fresh water for everything but drinking. I'll check on the Camco..... I suppose if we have water hook up we'll drink that, it will bypass the tank.....

Normally on units this new, when you hook the water up from a regular water hose, they fill the tank and feed the trailer faucets, we use our tank for drinking water and coffee and such all the time with no problems at all and the new materials they use in the poly for the tanks are really pretty resistant to mold or mildew, I would recommend picking up a water filter, if you travel to some of the areas I do, you end up with really bad water. Camco also makes water filters that have rubber hoses on them that you put on the trailer, then attach the water feed to the filter, they are not expensive and they can sure save you a hassle of bad tasting water. Also and this is a BIG also, make sure and pick up a tasteless white water hose, if not, your whole system will taste like the rubber water hose. Need to also make sure you have toilet chemicals, get the liquid kind, the powders sometimes don't break down the solids as well and they will plug in the dump system. When in an RV park that has sewer hooks ups, make sure and leave your dump valves closed and then dump before you leave, the amount of liquids and solids in the holding tank actually help get the system cleaner, if you open the dump valve all the time, it will allow solids to stick to the sides of the drain pipe.

Just trying to go through the check list I do when someone purchases an RV at my buddies, there is lots of little tricks that can make things go a lot smoother with your rig.

 

[WIMUSKY]

I'm sure we'll learn something new evertime we go. I plan on getting full hookup on our 1st outing. Never thought about leaving the tanks closed. I know the grey water tank is clean after all the fresh water I used today. Just running faucets etc.... Coffee with the tank water would be fine. All ready have a "white" hose that came with the trailer. In the docking station there is a lever that I can put in a position to bypass the tank and use city water, or put in another position to fill the tank. It's a blue lever. It is my understanding that city hookups have more pressure.

 

[MTboatguy]

Yes, City water normally runs about 50-60 psi and the trailers are normally optimized for 45 psi, this trailer should have a built in water regulator so it does not over pressurize the system, so you should be good to go on that, but if in doubt you can pick up a 45 psi water regulator for about $9.00 at Wal Mart, I always carry one with me just in case something goes wrong.

It is actually pretty easy to figure things out as you start to use it.

 

[WIMUSKY]

Yeah, I learned a lot just messing around today......

 

[WIMUSKY]

This is as bad as a hockey thread! Lol

 

[MTboatguy]

Well at least you have me to help you out! When I got my first one, they handed me the keys, patted me on the Butt and said have fun!

 

[GA_Boater]

This is as bad as a hockey thread! Lol

Wait 'til you start camping at WallyWorld and call it a big adventure. LOL

 

[WIMUSKY]

Well at least you have me to help you out! When I got my first one, they handed me the keys, patted me on the Butt and said have fun!

Yep, and I do appreciate it, MT! You can save the butt padding tho.....Lol The previous owner has been a lot of help too. Walked me thru everything and is still involved with this slide out issue. Which the new motor is supposed to be installed either Tue or Wed. Wed the hitch get's installed. Tried cleaning the awning with a bleach/water/dish soap recipe. Sprayed it on the top/underneath and retracted it for 1/2 hr. Extended it and sprayed it off with the garden hose. Did nothing.... Of course on Utube they said it worked fantastic. Sprayed 409 on a spot and rubbed it with my finger. That worked. So, we need to come up plan B. I do have awning cleaner, maybe that will work..... Pressure washer may help too if I put it on a low setting...

Wait 'til you start camping at WallyWorld and call it a big adventure. LOL

You can stay 1 nite free! Lol I've seen people do it. Heck, why not if a person is traveling. Pull in and jump in the rack for the nite....