1992 Stratos 2250 here we go again

ahmincha

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P5080004_zps7mvnzmxt.jpg Well with all the lean to talk lately I felt left out so I found some wood to do one for me
 
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ahmincha

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Last of the wet rotten wood
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P5140001_zps8qgjmbfy.jpgP5140002_zpssycpdiqi.jpg This is the cover for the fuel tank and middle of deck.
Again small 6" squares I thinkn they do this to help keep it flat
 
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ahmincha

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Wood removed and I do not mean are favorite Okie!!! P5140001_zpsejuaf1hg.jpg A little grind and ready for new wood and glass
 
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kcassells

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It's wet because the seal of that platform is insufficient. It will flex like it did before and let water into the bowels of the boat. If you do reinstall it...seal it and mark it but
make it permanent if you would ever have to access the tank again,
I entertained the same idea of using mine over but I see nothing but a lose lose situation. I want my tank completely coffined. You could pb it into place, of course with hatches for the access areas you need but in my opinion it's a dog design by boat mfgs. Too big a spread and will always flex = leaks.
How are you anticipating sealing that oversized floor door?
IMHO
KFC
 

kcassells

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Make the deck as 1pc in that area, mark off the areas you would need to remove if there were a tank problem and carry that mark to the top finished deck for future reference. As simple as magic marker outline that will be viewed on finished top deck for reference if you need to cut out the new tank.
No flex!
 

kcassells

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Ok I'm done....How the freak did that wood get wet and rotted in the first place? Was the boat under water for awhile? Was it upside down? Think about it. Everything just got wet from wicking of the water coming in around that flexing hatch.
Sorry ranting cause I have the same issue and rebuilt it and then realised what a waste of time and product costs. I even glassed in 3 steel 1/2" rebar cross ways and don't believe that hatch will ever let me be sealed properly based on the spread and with. Who cares about the weight if it doesn't work.
So moving on.....
 

sphelps

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Does it have to go back with little squares ? Why not a full piece ?
Just curious ..
 

ahmincha

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Rant away no problem. On mine 1 it is screwed down 2 where the access holes were cit in the wood was not even sealed on the edge. I suppose there will be some flex but I am not that concerned about that.
By design my tank area will be open to the bilge area so there will be air flow so I am assuming any water in should disipate. Plus I can always check it out and if need be rebuild and seal.
 

zool

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Aug 19, 2012
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Supposedly they use squares because they conform to the contours of the molded hatch without leaving any air pockets from ply warp....that maybe true, but I bet its also about using up ply scrap, and cost saving....
 

ahmincha

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The red outlines where my tank sets. the green arrows point to where rubber hoses go thru to drain the deck. there is also holes above So I feel I will have plenty of air flow plus a way for water to exit to the bilge
 

ahmincha

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As far as the small squares go I believe the squares would be more stable on the flat
 

kcassells

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You're probably right on all accounts noted. PB, ply,glass and epoxy will do the yob.:joyous:
 

ahmincha

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Ok this is where I cut thru the liner. I replaced the wood pbed it to the bottom and tabbed it in. This will sit ontop another piece of ply that caps my stringers and contains the flotation foam.Do you guys think I need to grind down and add chop strand and 1708 or would pb and faring be enough
k
P5150003_zps8jw6o8it.jpgP5150002_zps1mg4bnp5.jpg
 
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archbuilder

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I'm with Sam, you need the 1708 or it will just crack if you only put pb in it. The pb will get brittle over time and with stress. I would be inclined to put two layers of 1708.
 

kcassells

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nah... add chopped strand to the mix in the pb. and fart it out. It's epoxy or have you changed up at this point for the exposed deck areas to poly?
 
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