1991 MIRROCRAFT TROLLER XL REBUILD/RESTORE

[Watermann]

Can you just remove the blue trough and leave the through the hull stuff alone and live with that?

 

[Dignified09@gmail.com]

I've already got the pieces off, now I have 8 holes to fill.

The removal was way easier than I had thought. We got the pieces off in 10 mins, pretty flawlessly.

New rivets and 5200 ? Or is there a different way?

 

[Watermann]

It all depends on what you want to see from the inside but some blinds in the holes and 5200 will surely seal the deal. Try to use the shortest blinds you can in the size you need so they don't make such a large ugly bucktail. Unless or course you have closed end blind rivets.

Forgot to add that if you use a small wad of JB water weld you can press it into the blind rivet hole on the outside and either sand it smooth or use a bit more and make the blind look like a solid rivet with a dome on it with some flexible or emery sand paper. This also seals the hole from water intrusion.

 

[Dignified09@gmail.com]

How long do I need to let spar varnish sealed wood pieces cure for? I need to figure out a place to put them all.

Thanks.

 

[Dignified09@gmail.com]

Can I use a roller or should I use a paint brush? Some pieces are bigger, like the floor ones.

 

[Dignified09@gmail.com]

How long is the WOG wood sealant mixture good for? Can I mix it all up and still use it 1-3 weeks later?

 

[Watermann]

It depends on how many coats you put on and time between coats of spar as well as temps. As a rule of thumb don't cover the spar with anything until it's done gassing out. It doesn't matter what you apply spar with as long as you obtain even coats.

The OTF is good until it isn't Seal it up well and store in a cool place and it should be good for months.

 

[Frey0357]

Hello Dig! I placed mine in the sun to dry and harden. I let them cure overnight (in the garage) and then a couple of days before doing anything with them. I have now covered them all with carpeting.

As for applying with brush or roller, I prefer the brush. You really want to coat the wood well and allow it to soak into the wood, a brush will let you do this better in my opinion.

Hope this helps.

Frey

 

[Woodonglass]

Dig... You can mix it and store it in a sealed container. Will last for a LOOOOONG Time. For Big sheets of plywood I lay them flat on Saw horses and Use a Plastic Pump up sprayer to spray the formula on them. (You have to spray some MS thru the sprayer at the end to clean it.) For small pieces I use a brush. I clamp several pieces together which makes soaking the edges lots easier. Make SURE and let it cure for a minimum of two days before you apply the final Coats of Spar Poly. If you use the formula on seat bases and other covered areas that don't get any abrasion or exposure to the sun... It will last a as long as you have the boat. If it DOES see exposure to the Sun and Water but NOT any abrasion it'll last 2-3 years IF you use a Good UV protectant Spar Urethane. As long as you don't put holes in it without sealing the holes it will last.

 

[Dignified09@gmail.com]

I am putting the finishing touches on the trailer so we can get the Hull back on it,

Was wondering, back to the topic of 'electrolysis'

If I buy a treated 2x4 for the new bunks won't it effect the Hull?

The old ones seemed to be made out of 2x4 as well but I just need to be safe.

Thanks everyone.

 

[Dignified09@gmail.com]

Also should I coat them in the WOG mixture before I carpet them as well?

 

[Watermann]

No treated wood, yes seal the new bunk lumber. Take a look at this part of my SS thread.

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/owne...79-starcraft-18-v5-ss?p=10177751#post10177751

 

[Tnstratofam]

+1 On no treated wood. Waterman's link is spot on.

 

[Dignified09@gmail.com]

My dad got cedar treated wood, will that work? if not please explain so i can explain to him

 

[Dignified09@gmail.com]

I am also carpeting other pieces from the boat, I have some 3M 77 , is that what i wanna use to put the carpet on?

If so can someone explain that procedure as well. or list the materials I need for it. I noticed someone using Gorilla heavy duty construction adhesive for the bunks.

Thanks.

 

[TruckDrivingFool]

In reference to your bunks - If it's chemical treated the chemicals will leach out into the carpet then the carpet will be like a wet rag of chemicals forever soaking on you hull.

 

[Dignified09@gmail.com]

In reference to your bunks - If it's chemical treated the chemicals will leach out into the carpet then the carpet will be like a wet rag of chemicals forever soaking on you hull.

You had mentioned earlier in my posts (page 3, post #38) that if the corrosion were from the trailer bunks it would be localized to that area so thats why I ask about the treated/untreated wood. im wondering if thats what caused it to begin with.

 

[TruckDrivingFool]

If you look at this pic you posted you can see were the the bunks rode (black lines) and there is more wear from rubbing on the bunks in loading/unloading than corrosion. Even if the carpet rubbed the white powder off you would still see pitting localized to that area.



The other big sign (to me) that it's not from the bunks is that it gets worse the further away from the keel you go with majority being out at the chines. (red line)

That's why I think someone used a brightener or some sort of cleaner on it and didn't rinse it thoroughly enough.

 

[Dignified09@gmail.com]

Easy enough to understand, thanks truckdrivingfool.

Pics are coming guys, really just a lot of boring stuff everyone's done before so yeah.

Update is coming.

 

[Watermann]

Yeah well it might be boring to some older forum salts but when some noob comes strolling through with his new to him boat he may be thrilled to see how others do these things.