1991 MIRROCRAFT TROLLER XL REBUILD/RESTORE

[Dignified09@gmail.com]

I guess I wont be doing that anytime soon, the hull is upside down and the trailer is being redone. Can you give an example of brush or wheel I can buy? thanks.

 

[Dignified09@gmail.com]

which works better for my severeness? fine wire, nylon or cup brush? thanks.

Also, Ive had my 2 pieces of 3/4" for the transom cut out for a couple days now. however I forgot if i am suppose to seal them with WOG mixture first, or glue them together first?

thanks.

 

[Watermann]

Well I like fine wire 8" wheel, stainless if you can fine it are best but I've used steel and not had any issues. I use a high speed large drill that has a side handle, don't try using any kind of wheel or grinder without a side handle. Most guys use all the above and find out what works best for them.

Laminate the wood together, cut to size and the holes are drilled in it for mounting. Then seal the wood.

All the white(ish) discoloration on the outside of the hulls looks to me like it needs to come off, have you hit that with a wheel or 3M pad yet or tried removing it?

 

[fishin98]

Nice project you have going on there. You are getting sound advice from others on this forum. Follow the advice on sealing your plywood and will not have any issues for many years. Is your motor a 40hp 2cyl Mariner? I also sandblasted my trl when I rehabed my 1988 Alumacraft. I used Rustoleum industral grade primer. Primer your trailer and other parts as soon as you can after blasting. Let it sit for a week after primering before painting. Take your time and you will be pleased with your restoration.

 

[Frey0357]

Dig,
Watermann's advice is right on! Glue your transom pieces together, step 1. Cut to fit, and dry fit it in the boat to ensure proper sizing, Step 2. Drill all holes needed in new transom core (wood), step 3. Seal wood with WOG mixture, ensuring sealant into the holes that were drilled, step 4. Place new transom core in boat and begin reinstalling or replacing fasteners (seal them as you put them in, 3M 4200, 5200, or Marine Goop, are good products for this, avoid silicone).

Frey

 

[Dignified09@gmail.com]

Well I like fine wire 8" wheel, stainless if you can fine it are best but I've used steel and not had any issues. I use a high speed large drill that has a side handle, don't try using any kind of wheel or grinder without a side handle. Most guys use all the above and find out what works best for them.

Laminate the wood together, cut to size and the holes are drilled in it for mounting. Then seal the wood.

All the white(ish) discoloration on the outside of the hulls looks to me like it needs to come off, have you hit that with a wheel or 3M pad yet or tried removing it?

watermann I have not, I have been carefully asking questions and waiting for the proper response from you guys as I feel most comfortable. I figure I am so deep into this project that I will take all time nessessary to do these things the right way.

I heard that steel brushes can inbed the steel into the aluminum and make it prone to rust? I read that here:

http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/315162-cleaning-protecting-aluminum-hull.html#b

 

[Dignified09@gmail.com]

Nice project you have going on there. You are getting sound advice from others on this forum. Follow the advice on sealing your plywood and will not have any issues for many years. Is your motor a 40hp 2cyl Mariner? I also sandblasted my trl when I rehabed my 1988 Alumacraft. I used Rustoleum industral grade primer. Primer your trailer and other parts as soon as you can after blasting. Let it sit for a week after primering before painting. Take your time and you will be pleased with your restoration.

it is a model 40 (6E9) if that helps you. Sorry I am not familiar with outboard motors yet... ha

 

[Dignified09@gmail.com]

Dig,
Watermann's advice is right on! Glue your transom pieces together, step 1. Cut to fit, and dry fit it in the boat to ensure proper sizing, Step 2. Drill all holes needed in new transom core (wood), step 3. Seal wood with WOG mixture, ensuring sealant into the holes that were drilled, step 4. Place new transom core in boat and begin reinstalling or replacing fasteners (seal them as you put them in, 3M 4200, 5200, or Marine Goop, are good products for this, avoid silicone).

Frey

Just a thought but wouldnt you want to seal both 3/4" pieces of wood before you glue them together?

 

[Watermann]

Yeah I've read that and just know people say all sorts of thing on the internet even when they've never actually experienced what they're talking about. I bet all the brakes and shears used to fabricate aluminum boats are made of steel and according to that line of thought should ruin your boat too. Stainless steel is dissimilar metal to aluminum too so in effect the nylox would be the nest choice if you think about it. But then what's the abrasive material made of on the nylox bristles? The hand wringing will never end.

The worst thing about steel wire wheels are when they loose bristles and you don't vacuum them out. I would never cross use a wire wheel from a steel trailer frame to my aluminum boat though and once the wheel starts loosing bristles I toss it and get a new one.

 

[Frey0357]

Hello Dig,
The beauty here is that you can assemble you boat any way that you want to. You can seal the transom boards separately or after being glued together, its up to you. If you ask me, my personal opinion, I would glue them together wood to wood surface and then seal the entire thing as one 1.5" thick wooden board. This is how I have done mine and would do again. Please know that these are my suggestions based on the help that I have gotten from this forum and the folks here, and my personal experience. You can do yours any way that you see fit, just share the results so that others will learn.

Frey

 

[Dignified09@gmail.com]

The response I am getting from all of you has been tremendous in my attitude toward this project.

I heard someone on these forums say that restoring a boat is one of the best feelings ever to them and I am really starting to understand why.

I am getting a lot of enjoyment out of it.

 

[TruckDrivingFool]

Gluing before sealing your adhesive will penetrate the wood somewhat giving a better bond than if it is merely bonding two layers of sealer together thus relying on the bond between the sealer and the wood for strength.

 

[Dignified09@gmail.com]

Good morning everyone. I have another question in regards to the transom rebuild.

These may be obvious questions but you all have been a great help so I will ask anyway.

1. When using the titebond to glue, how should I spread it? In a spaghetti line all over? Spread it out even like butter? apply glue to both pieces of board?

When clamping, will 2 C clamps, one on each end with 2x4s be enough pressure? Do I need more evenly applied pressure throughout the boards?

I.e. C clamps in the middle as well? I have 2 steel C clamps and some various plastic ones that have some good pressure to them. (Squeezing them apart is pretty tense)

Thanks.

 

[Tnstratofam]

When I glued my transom I used nearly an entire botrle of Tightbond III. I applied it to one piece in a back and forth pattern. Then put the other piece on top and began clamping. I used 10 or 12 C clamps with three 2x4's running long ways and two or three more running side to side. Making sure I had good even glue squeeze out on all edges. Make sure you clean up the excess glue with a wet rag before it dries otherwise you will be doing lots of extra sanding.

If you don't have enough clamps I would lay the transom on the floor and stack as much weight on it as I could find. I'll post some pics of my transom glue up in a minute.

 

[Tnstratofam]

In this picture you can see I used some bar clamps in the middle to add extra clamping pressure to the middle sections.





You should have good even squeeze out all the way around.





This shows how much of a large bottle of glue I used.



Hope this helps.

 

[Frey0357]

Dig,
When I glued my transom core I did the exact same as tnstratofam. I glued both boards making sure to get glued heavy on the outside, and then inside. I only had 6 clamps so I propped my wood up with empty paint cans, placed heavy objects in the center and then clamped the heck out of it on the sides and ends. Good squeeze out means you got the right amount of glue between the boards. IMO.

Frey

 

[Watermann]

Another option to the TB III is what I use, the TB poly.

 

[Dignified09@gmail.com]

Thanks guys, that does help!

I am gearing up for another weekend of work.

I have some things lined up, I have been running around buying all sorts of supplies for various jobs.

I tried to find stainless steel wire wheel brushes and nylox ones as well. I found a 3" nylox cup brush, but that was the biggest size I could find.

Where do you guys get them?

Thanks.

 

[Dignified09@gmail.com]

Watermann, what is the process to using these stainless steel/nylox cup brushes?

Do you just dry use them? As in, screw in the attachment to the drill and just use it?

Or do I need to apply water or some special solvent with it as I brush?

I want to Polish the aluminum back to shiny I guess (that is what I vision) and heard sharkshide works great for that.

Thanks.

 

[Watermann]

The wheels are used just for removing the corrosion areas on the transom mainly and other areas that need cleaned up where there's normally pitting that goes with it. For polishing the hull that's out of my wheel house, I've painted my hulls.