1972 Sea Ray

Celtichawk

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Re: 1972 Sea Ray

Make sure you get Marine Exhaust Hose.[/QUOTE

Yea for sure kind of learned by now that most things don't bother taking short cut and always go marine grade

Plus when my family to include wife and kids will be on board not going to go cheap
 

Celtichawk

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Re: 1972 Sea Ray

Soooo you need a couple of new elbows (yes replace em both) and some hose
All can be found aftermarket.
No problem

Are these elbows that I need replaced 45 degree elbows or 90?

Silly question maybe but I just wanted to make sure that my eyes are not playing any tricks on me lol
 
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Celtichawk

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Re: 1972 Sea Ray

photo.jpg

Okay guys I will be replacing both the port side and starboard side exhaust system. Turns out one of the port hoses is cracked and to the point I don't like as well as the elbows were claimed to be working condition but considering they are metal and very coroded I will just replace. So I'm going to order both sides but having a problem measuring my hoses and elbows. The above photo is the port side all intact exhaust that runs from riser to bell housing.

What is the easiest way to measure the O.D. and I.D. of each part to match them up. Also lets say for instance the starting hose that comes off the riser is 4" O.D. does that mean I would need a O.D. on my first elbow reducer to be at least a 3-7/8"? Reason I say this is obviously the hose has a 4" O.D. so the I.D. is going to be slightly smaller. Now can I order a 4" riser hose O.D. and connect it safe to a 3-1/2" elbow reducer O.D.? As in there won't be too much play and since I will be using metal band clamps to tighten down it will work?

The reason I ask all this technical stuff is I'm having trouble finding parts to match my exact measurements. Here is my break down.....

Riser Hose is 4" O.D. with a 3 7/8" approx I.D. then runs to that first Elbow which is a reducer from 3-7/8" O.D. with a approx 3-1/2" I.D but then reduces to a 3" O.D. etc...... sound confusing? I don't know maybe I just need to take it to a boat shop locally or Napa and have them duplicate this for me.
 

Celtichawk

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Re: 1972 Sea Ray

Last but not least since I removed the port side and it seemed all intact, should there be any kind of flapper at the bell housing or in the exhaust hoses/piping to prevent water from coming back up through the bell housing or no because the pressure of exhaust and water going out will keep it out? This is a OMC Stringer if that helps at all.
 

smokeonthewater

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Re: 1972 Sea Ray

hose is measured and sold by ID.... the fittings need to have the same OD as the hose ID

You will have to measure the angles of your elbows BUT keep in mind that you can use ANY combination that puts the hose where you need it... You don't have to route it exactly the same as it is currently
 

Celtichawk

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Messages
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Re: 1972 Sea Ray

hose is measured and sold by ID.... the fittings need to have the same OD as the hose ID

You will have to measure the angles of your elbows BUT keep in mind that you can use ANY combination that puts the hose where you need it... You don't have to route it exactly the same as it is currently


Thanks for that clarification and I suppose I'm just not that savvy in figuring all the measurements out. I believe that first elboe is a 45 degree and then the second one is 90 degree. I will see if I can have it checked to be sure.

Also, believe I have narrowed it down to what I will need for sizes. Tricky but I think I got it. To be sure before I go ahead and order I will take my port side setup to local boat shop/yard and ask them if they can help with duplicating. Then I can match that to what I came up with. If it were easy enough I would say I would just take entire boat to yard and say fix it, costing me more then I would like though.
 

smokeonthewater

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Re: 1972 Sea Ray

you can purchase a protractor cheap anywhere paper and pencils are sold... maybe under $1

With a protractor you can measure the exact angle
 

Celtichawk

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Re: 1972 Sea Ray

Look everyone I did find the exact parts, I took the originals to a shop today that specializes in OMC parts and first thing out of his mouth is wow!! :) I said I know they are old parts he said yea and very hard to get replacements. So he said he would recommend trying to replace that first elbow the one with crack in it but the others clean them up gently and just re-use them. We looked around his shop full of OMC parts but could not match anything up. We also looked around his shop for a replacement intermediate housing just in case if I wanted to replace. Well no good luck on that but his fellow co-worker knows of one another guy has that is like brand new. So might inquire that later just to have depending on price.

So I came home and punched in that part number listed on the larger Elbow and also plugged in the dimensions of the smaller elbow and look what I found!!!

Osco Marine Elbow 803023 Iron 3" x 2 3 8" 80 Degree | eBay

http://my.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?MyEbayBeta&MyEbay=&gbh=1&guest=1
 

Celtichawk

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Re: 1972 Sea Ray

I don't know if the second link you can view, but I would like to say I found the exact replacements and the one I could not believe price at $8.90 lol so I bought them maybe should have bought more but it appears there are many. The larger ones though I could only find 2 on Ebay and no other place. So I will keep the cast iron replacements and I'm sure they will out last the time I will keep the boat.
 

Celtichawk

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Re: 1972 Sea Ray

Next up will be the replacement hoses but the price for all hoses is going to run me $135 so I need to hold off until I come back from my Northern California trip with family. That is of course priority #1. Thanks for all your help guys and will let you know how the parts fit once I get hoses and installed.
 

Celtichawk

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Re: 1972 Sea Ray

All my elbow pieces came in and they are correct fittings. I went down to my local west marine and they had replacement marine hose so I bought the larger ones from riser to first elbow. Test fit and they work. Now before I go and buy all hoses and install them perm in next week or so I ask should the exhaust have a flapper in it? Since mine runs down into intermediate housing I wasn't sure. I didn't want to go putting it all back on to find out hard way and have back wash. Plus with exhaust running down and different angles wasn't sure if that was the way to prevent any back wash and flappers not needed on this older GM350 OMC stringer setup.
 

Celtichawk

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Re: 1972 Sea Ray

Anyone on the above questions????? I will leave this post to grave yard after this question unless it pertains directly to my original problem but this question does so I'm askin for help here before I reassemble. Thanks.
 

smokeonthewater

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Re: 1972 Sea Ray

my gut feeling is that yeah you should have some sort of shutters in there... BUT I have never worked on a stringer and I have no clue where they would go
 

Nivekt

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Re: 1972 Sea Ray

The exhaust flappers are located in the exhaust housing which is what you are calling the intermediate housing. Basically the intermediate bolts to the exhaust housing and the exhaust housing bolts to the engine. If you take a flashlight and shine it down into the exhaust holes in the housing you should be able to see the flappers in there. If yours are gone or broken they will need to be replaced which will require engine removal. Here is a picture of one of mine that was broken that I replaced:

DSCF2048.jpg


And here is a picture of my '79 Stringer SBC 350 with intermediate and exhaust housing hanging after I pulled it:

ExhaustIntermediate_zps0056b42b.png
 
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Celtichawk

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Re: 1972 Sea Ray

Okay well I noticed you can buy exhaust flappers inline so will those work or do they have to be inside the housing like you posted? Removing engine is defiantly going to require some work for sure and not sure I have the means to do it now. Living where I live I'm kind of restricted. So I was considering installing ones in the hose down near the exhaust housing.

I'm sorry for my wrong labeling of the housing :). Didn't realize there was two parts. Does te engine have to be fully removed? Can you just remove stern drive and then the intermediate housing along with exhaust housing from engine but leave motor mounted?
 
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Celtichawk

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Re: 1972 Sea Ray

My next question where do I buy the flappers that go into exhaust housing if I have no other way to do it?
 

Nivekt

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Re: 1972 Sea Ray

Are you sure your flappers are missing from the exhaust housing? Ya know, now that you mention it, you might be able to remove just the intermediate housing from the exhaust housing and take it out through the key hole. Never really thought about it. I just yanked my whole engine because I had to rebuild it anyway.

Doing some more digging.....
Taking another look at the diagrams from your model year, all the 1972's I see show they had through hull exhaust set ups and no mention of flappers in the housing. Do you know the model number of your exhaust housing? Does your exhaust housing look like number 83 in this picture:

adapterhousing_zps96d3ec6e.png


Or does it look more like #83 in this image:

adapterhousing2_zps3900ce96.png
 

Celtichawk

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Re: 1972 Sea Ray

Ah nice diagram and that does explain a lot. I went to my boat in storage and took photos used flash light shined into housing and I see nothing. I know mine will need a new housing soon due to the inlet on housing in rough shape and since those are one piece to the actual housing but I did not see any signs of flappers. Also looked into exhaust port on stern drive and nothing not even signs of where they could be mounted.

Now after coming home looking at your diagram mine is exactly like 83 in first diagram so that means mine didn't have it? Which means what? I don't need it or I need to install ones in the hoses from riser?
 
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