Yamaha Oil Buzzer (Round 2) Rodbolt

[igofishn]

Hello,<br /><br />This question is for Rodbolt,<br /><br />You helped me out a few weeks ago when I was having problems with the Buzzer Alarming out. post "YAMAHA OIL BUZZER"4-19-05 I thought the problem was fixed when I replaced a bad ground wire that was connected to the trim sensor. I have used the boat 4 times with no problems. Now today I went to use the boat and the buzzer is on and the three lights are blinking just like before. The engine starts and runs fine but I noticed that the tach reads 0 all the time. Do you have any ideas on what I should check. Is it something with that trim sensor? Is there a way to bypass it.<br /><br />Twin 1991 Yamaha 150<br /><br />You or anyones help would be greatly appreciated.<br /><br />Carlo

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Yamaha Oil Buzzer (Round 2) Rodbolt

hello<br /> is the oil level on the engine tank actually low? its also possible you have lost your tach drive signal. test for a varying ac voltage on the green wire at the tach. make sure you have water to the gearcase when testing. could also have a short in the trim/alarm harness to the tach. normally at the cowl exit.

 

[igofishn]

Re: Yamaha Oil Buzzer (Round 2) Rodbolt

The oil level on the engine tank is at the upper level line. I will check the tach like you said. If I do not have voltage on the green wire what is my next step. Also, The trim gage on the tach was fluctating up and down 1 to 2 bars prior to this problem. I pulled the trim sensor connectors apart and found some corrosion on them I cleaned the connectors,reconnected and the trim gage was working fine. I think I agree with you that it has something to do with that trim/alarm harness. Last month, I replaced the ground wire from the trim sensor to the splice on the main wire harness about 8 inches of the wire was burnt up, the problem went away for a while now its back. <br />Later today I will look at the trim/alarm harness. I will keep you posted.<br /><br />thank you agian<br />Carlo

 

[igofishn]

Re: Yamaha Oil Buzzer (Round 2) Rodbolt

Ok,<br /><br />Today I am back to the original problem I had a month ago. Turn the key to the on position without starting and all 3 lights blink and the buzzer is sounding. I started the motor anyway and tach is reading "0". engine running fine but buzzer and light on. Shut engine off and turn key back to on without starting. 3 Lights blinking and buzzer on. I disconnected the plug that goes to the remote oil tank and the buzzer shuts off and the light goes to yellow. Reconnect and the light goes to green. Restarted the engine and the tach is now reading fine but the buzzer and light come back on. <br /><br />Next,<br />I diconnected the plug to the remote tank, turned the key back to the on position and no alarms and light is on yellow. I reconnect the plug a light go to green. Now I hit the emergnecy switch and the buzzer and all tach lights go on. Whats going on here? Do I have a short from the plug to the remote tank?<br /><br />I also connected a test lead to the negative on the battary and tested all the grounds on the motor. All of the ground seem fine. <br /><br />I checked the trim/ alarm harness at the cowl exit and I do not see anything wrong there. The trim gauge is working properly now. <br /><br />Any help.<br /><br />Carlo

 

[seahorse5]

Re: Yamaha Oil Buzzer (Round 2) Rodbolt

I had a problem engine with similar symptoms. It boiled down to internal corrosion inside the boat wiring harness "dropping" the 12 volts from the key switch to around 9V back at the motor. Disconnecting the oil tank harness did the same thing as yours.<br /><br />Some Yamaha's will blink all the lights if the voltage drops too low, such as a corroded or loose cable somewhere.<br /><br />The fix was to replace the boat harness and the motor ran fine after that. Upon inspection, we found a "crackling" sound in a swollen part of the harness that when cut open was a green corroded mess.

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Yamaha Oil Buzzer (Round 2) Rodbolt

yep what seahorse says is common. there are some splices in the key on 12v yellow wire just below the stbd head/cdi area that tend to fail. will cause funny problems.carefully cut away the tape and inspect the connections if you suspect it.<br /> your describing a case of corroded connections somewhere. shorts are usually easy to find as they tend to smoke and you can see the melted area. opens (corroded contacts) are a bit more difficult and require a DVM or other multimeter, a harness diagram and the knowledge to interpet the meter readings.

 

[igofishn]

Re: Yamaha Oil Buzzer (Round 2) Rodbolt

Thanks for the input guys.<br /><br />I will check later today and repost.<br /><br />Also, Rodbolt yesterday I ran the test that you gave me on the April 23<br />Your test" so far the only abnormal symptom you have given is the buzzer sounding when transfering with the emergency switch, should not happen.<br />by the fact that the pump can be manually run it tells me the wiring from the connector at the engine to the pump is good. the brown wire to the remote tank is 12+ with key on. the blue wire is the ground path for the CDI and the manual switch. when moving the switch your manually grounding the circuit. with the key on test for 12v at the bluegreen and blue white wires. if you have 12v hit the toggle for emergency transfer and watch the voltage on the system. you may be fighting a main harness problem. use a 12v test light and unplug the connector near the main harness with a yellow wire, blue wire, black wire and black/red. it may be a brown depending.set up a test light between the blue and the brown or the blue and the yellow on the engine plug. turn the key on. light should be off. switch the emergency switch on, should have a light. now with key still on jump the blue/green to ground. should have a light. jump the blue/white to ground, light should go out. <br />CDI failures are rare. ground failures and harness failures not so rare. and you swapped the CDI and no change in problems. do you have a service manual for the engine ? "<br /><br />I have 12+ at the blue white and blue green wires. When I hit the emergency transfer the voltage drops to ZERO on both wires and the buzzer and light come on. When I ground out the wires the buzzer and lights come on. I set up the test light between the brown and the blue on the engine plug. I ground the blue green, no light, but tach buzzer and lights come on. Gound out the blue white no light, but tach buzzer and lights come on. <br />Does any of this information give you other leads on what other wires to check for shorts or ground failures.<br /><br />Thank you <br />Carlo

 

[igofishn]

Re: Yamaha Oil Buzzer (Round 2) Rodbolt

Hello,<br /><br />One quick question. The Pink wire that is in the main wire harness and connects to the CDI and the Buzzer is that wire a ground or 12v at key on.

 

[igofishn]

Re: Yamaha Oil Buzzer (Round 2) Rodbolt

Thanks again,<br /><br />Found the problem. Yellow wire inside the connector on the engine wire harness was corroded out. I jumped the yellow wire and everything works fine. Anyoie know how to get Yamaha parts quickly? I need to replace that harness.<br /><br /><br />Thanks again for your help.<br />Carlo