Yamaha 60 hp O/B problems.

[James Steven]

I recently purchased a boat with a 2005 Yamaha 60 HP o/b on it. The engine has only 400+ hrs on it and the oil and exterior look to be in great shape. I ran the engine for 7-8 hours with no problems. Then the engine began to shut down, leaving me in 'safe' mode as I was told at the dealer. This allows a low rpm capability rather than a properly running engine. This is a cooling/overheat problem apparantly. I have done a lot of work on the engine in the last few weeks trying to solve this stupid dangerous problem. I have a power mech background ,a Harley mech for years , so systems and diagnosing stupid troublesome problems are second nature to me.
Having said that I am at my wits end with this engine.
The engine has been to the dealer and scanned, old trouble codes (irrelevant) have been removed and a vague cooling trouble code addressed and removed as well.
Parts replaced include: the fuel injection pump , preliminary fuel pump , thermostat , impellor , all fuel lines , fuel separator/filter , engine fuel filter.
Cooling system components have been flushed and cleaned , all wiring has been traced and connections checked , shift position microswitch unplugged with no change to the problem. Fuel tank and lines examined and flushed.
Last night I was out checking again , after the trip to the dealer (who are trying very hard to help with this) and the problem has changed very little. I was stranded for a while , so it is getting dangerous. The problem will NOT show up running the engine out of the water.
The salmon are swimming by as we speak ,so the main reason for this boat is being unrealized!
Anyone? Please?

 

[gm280]

:welcome: James to iboats. Nice to have you joins us...

I read your comment and understand the frustration. Problems like that can make one scratch their heads for while. I have a suggestion to verify you actually have a real problem. I say "real" because once the problem code is latched, the engine is preprogrammed to go to "safe" mode and therefore you really may not have an actual engine problem but one the engine computer thinks is happening. Why not replace the main computer unit, if only for a verification effort from the dealer to actually verify there is a true fault and code? Ask the dealer for a loaner computer unit and plug that in and run to see if that computer flags a code. Can't hurt... But could also point to a faulty CPU system! :noidea:

 

[James Steven]

gm280 Thanks for your input. With the plethora of problems and solutions tried ,the cpu is the final end game. Mentioned to me by another this morning. It may well be the final solution. One of my probs is location I have to take a ferry to the mainland for everything ,at $80 a pop truck and boat I dont wanna do too many. I did do it last week for the dealer to scan without a solution. Still gonna take every suggestion into consideration.

Thank you.

 

[99yam40]

being as you failed to post you motors complete model # , we have no idea what motor you have or if this is a 2 stroke or a 4 stroke.
Do you have gauges that will tell you what alarm is coming in?

There is more to a water pump than just an impeller that can be a problem
and how did you clean the cooling system?

 

[James Steven]

F60TLRD , 4 Stroke , fuel injected.
It has a digital Yamaha guage set that is from another engine as the hours dont match when the engine is scanned. The temp symbol appears as a bar graph as does the trim guage. Temp and oil bars flash at strtup then disappear as any vehicle does nowadays. There is no audible alarm.
Accessible water galleries are cleaned by brush and by hand. Lines cavities and etc were cleaned out with brush and CLR to remove oxidised and crusted material. Temp sender was soaked in CLR and brushed clean. Screens were removed from the lower leg and cleaned. Small hoses were blown out with compressed air. Other than oxidised crust there were no pieces of impeller or foreign objects observed in the cooling system. Emgine block cavities blown out.

 

[99yam40]

Should be a buzzer in the remote control.
I believe if you pull the kill safety switch and turn key to start it should sound the buzzer on most motors
is it not sounding when the motor goes into RPM reduction?
Is there any indicators showing up when it reduces RPM?

 

[James Steven]

No buzzer sounding , I will be going into a manual tonight to get those working. They are not hooked up , either the temp and oil warnings. No visual indicators are showing up on the gauge panel when RPM symptoms appear.

 

[99yam40]

Do you know if the buzzer works as it should?

Might need to test it

 

[James Steven]

Working on finding a Yamaha control box wiring diagram right now and I'll go into the box after that.

 

[James Steven]

Put 12 v to the buzzer, not working. Another piece not working on this wreck.