Yamaha 130 rebuild questions

Gep

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Hi all,<br />I have a question on rebuilding my 1992 Yamaha TXRQ 130hp.<br /><br />I thought I threw a rod, but upon tearing it apart I found out a ring on my #3 cylinder dissintegrated.<br /><br />I am wondering if anybody out there has a lead on where the cheapest place is to get a new rod?<br /><br />Thanks in advance,<br />Mike
 

rodbolt

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Re: Yamaha 130 rebuild questions

hello<br /> why do you need a rod? usually just a ring coming apart wont take out a rod. and the next question is why did the ring let go?<br /> post with more info on why it failed or the symptoms just prior to failure.<br /> Good luck and keep posting
 

Gep

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Re: Yamaha 130 rebuild questions

Hi Rodbolt,<br />This last August I was going along and heard a strange noise coming from the engine. As I was throttling back the engine made this god awful sound like someone had thrown a bag of bolts into a fan.<br />It was seized up, I couldn't turn the flywheel at all.<br />I wasn't really planning on even doing anything with the motor given it's history.<br />I got to store my boat at work this Winter and I decided<br /><br /> to pull the engine off my boat in hopes of finding a replacement.<br />Well, we we're pretty slow at work this week so I figured I'd try and see what was wrong with the engine.<br />Once I got it stripped down and determined that there wasn't that much damage I figured it wouldn't take that much to fix it.<br /><br />It didn't take out the rod, but imbedded some melted parts of the ring into the face of the piston.<br />I was just figuring I probably needed a new rod along with the piston.<br /><br />Mike
 

rodbolt

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Re: Yamaha 130 rebuild questions

hello<br /> if the rod is good it is good and no sense in replaceing it. have it checked at a OUTBOARD machine shop. I hate knocking my buddies at the car shops but they just cant handle some of the tolerences :) . I would do all 4 pistons to the first overbore. replace the bottom bearing, replace the recirc check valves. replace the fuel pump and do the carbs. replace the pressure valve grommet t-stats and complete pump kit.<br /> good luck and keep posting
 

Gep

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Re: Yamaha 130 rebuild questions

Rodbolt,<br />I am by no stretch of the imagination a marine (or auto for that matter)mechanic, so I'll probably be asking some pretty dumb questions.<br /><br />I'll take this one part at a time.<br /><br />What part do I need checked at an outboard shop? The piston or the rod attached?<br /><br />Do I need to replace the piston that has the melted ring on it? Or can I just scrape it off and go with it?<br />Whats the most I can bore these out without needing all new pistons? <br />I would like to get as much horsepower out of this engine as I can, as my boat is rated for a 150hp. <br />And as long as I have it apart, I figure a couple hundred more to get bigger pistons is alot better than a new engine.<br /><br />Bottom bearing? Is this in the bottom of the crankcase? Is this what the manual (seloc)calls the Lower main bearing?<br /><br />Recirc check valves? Huh? I couldn't find any mention of this in the manual.<br />Replace fuel pump? why? I think this was working ok.<br />Do the carbs. I'm assuming you mean overhaul the carbs? These were replaced two years ago.<br /><br />Replace pressure valve grommet t-stats.<br />Are these the thermostats that I pulled out of the cylinder head covers or are you talking about the thermoswitches?<br />Complete pump kit? Once again, huh?<br />Pump kit for what?<br /><br />Thanks for the replies.<br />Mike
 

Knightgang

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Re: Yamaha 130 rebuild questions

I will try a shot at this and see if i am on the same page as Rodbolt.<br /><br />"What part do I need checked at an outboard shop?" I would say the block, to be sure the cylinder walls are okay and the crank case and intake and exhaust ports are not damaged.<br /><br />"Do I need to replace the piston that has the melted ring on it?" See what the outboard shop says. If the top of the piston is not hurt, it has not been bent out of shape, and the ring journals (seats) are okay, you may can reuse it.<br /><br />Boring siae & Horsepower??? I Don't know?? MAy Rod can answer that one.<br /><br />"Bottom bearing? Is this in the bottom of the crankcase?" Yes, this would be the bearing, also called a lower main bearing on the crank.<br /><br />"Recirc check valves? Huh?" I don't know on this either.<br /><br />"Replace fuel pump? why?" If you are doing a rebuild, the last thing you want to happen is a small part going out that you could have replaced and saved the headache. You can probably rebuild the fuel pump instead of replace it. I am not sure on the Yamaha.<br /><br />"Do the carbs. I'm assuming you mean overhaul the carbs? These were replaced two years ago." Yes, overhaul them. You said this disasted happened in August, it is not Dec and I assume the engine has not been cranked since. THe carbs are probably begining to gum up or have the fuel in them varnish. I good rebuild will ensure that they work properly and reduce the chance of running the rebuilt engine in a lean condition.<br /><br />"Replace pressure valve grommet t-stats.<br />Are these the thermostats that I pulled out of the cylinder head covers or are you talking about the thermoswitches?<br />Complete pump kit? Once again, huh?<br />Pump kit for what?" Yes, these are the thermostats that are pulled out of the head covers. Like any new engine application or rebuild, always replace the thermostats and the waterpump to prevent problems. THe Pump Kit is to rebuild the water pump. Again, this is a 10+ year old engine and may never have had a water pump rebuild or an impeller replacement. Doing the rebuild, the last thing you want to happen is an over heat on the sea-trail and ruin the rebuild work.<br /><br />Rod, I think I was on the same track as you, please confirm and I hope this helps.<br /><br />knightgang
 

rodbolt

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Re: Yamaha 130 rebuild questions

hello<br /> yep<br /> to restore this engine first class is not that much different than patching it up. (bodgering it I think is what yall calls it :) ). first stip it down to a bare block. the big trik is finding a machine shop that specializes in outboards. I dont trust most auto machine shops. make sure you keep the rods and rodcaps together. remove the circlips from the wristpins. remove the pin and wristpin bearings. the circlips are not reusable and wear eye protection while removing/installing them. bore all the cyl to the ist or second oversize. the sleeves can be replaced in this block if nessasary but it costs about 200 a hole to do it.once the machine shop tells you the block is ok make sure you have a qualified machine shop or tech check the rods for roundness and size as well as the crank for anywear. the main bearings usually will outlive all the rest so as long as they look ok with no pitting I will reuse them. the rod bearings I like to replace but it is not always nessasary. the bottom main bearing is a ball bearing and needs replacing. ok now we are as2suming the block is back and you have washed it twice with hot soapy water, crank and rods as well and all are super clean and lightly oiled with TCW-III oil.( here comes a whole new thread:).) ok now place all the rods on the pistons with new pin bearings and retainers. install new rings on the piston as per service manual. install the pistons in the bores making sure the arrows point to exhasust and the words port and stbd are in the proper holes and the rod dimples face the top of the crank(flywheel end).now place your previously surfaced and reworked heads on the block and torque to proper specs as per service manual.now flip the block over and install the previously assembled crank. see it gets rathe involved but if you reach this point its a piece o cake from here. rebuild the carbs and either rebuild or replace the fuel pump.what the goal here is is to insure nothing will wipe out your newly reconditioned block assy. not all engines had the recirc check valves. consult a service/parts manual. I rarley rebuild most pumps now due to labor costs. well this is long enough for one post<br /> good luck and if ya have more questions post again :)
 

Gep

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Re: Yamaha 130 rebuild questions

Thanks guys,<br />My next step is to pull the powerhead.<br />I'll let you know how it goes.<br />Mike
 

Gep

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Re: Yamaha 130 rebuild questions

Hey Guys,<br />Any advise on how to get the powerhead off of the intermediate housing?<br />The manual says to use a long piece of wood and pry from the lower cowling.<br />I don't want to break the cowling.<br />Is there a secret way to get this off?<br />Thanks,<br />Mike
 

Gep

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May 27, 2003
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Re: Yamaha 130 rebuild questions

Disregard above, I got the powerhead off.<br />Thanks anyways.<br />Mike
 

Gep

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Re: Yamaha 130 rebuild questions

Rodbolt,<br />I pulled the crankcase cover today and discovered my rod bearing disintegrated, not the ring.<br />What would cause something like this to happen.<br />It was the number three piston.<br />Thanks,<br />Mike
 
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