would this boat be good for light open ocean fishing and bays on larger days?

driscollies

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like my other post said I am looking to move up a little on a boat. I have a 16 foot tinny right now. was thinking of moving up more to a 17 foot whaler but that was maybe a bad idea. looking at more length now. I fish in monterey bay, sometimes bays up north more, and would like to be able to go out on larger days. Right now if it gets windy or choppy or swells are over a foot I'm not going out. Would like to be able to go out even on just slightly bigger days or even go just a little outside of the monterey bay on small days.

My boat now is flat bottom but sharp bow. No strakes. Any thoughts on a boat more like this? 23-footer. Looks like it has more deadrise on the bow and strakes. But the stern still looks flat bottomed. Not going out too far or too often so maybe don't need a true deep v?

Thoughts on this boat? thank you.

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brian4321

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I'm not sure how it would fair in bigger water, but looks like a money pit to me
 
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Watermann

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Yeah now that would be a great restoration project boat but it would take a while before it's safe and usable again.
 

driscollies

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good to know. can I ask why? I just kind of figured... old tinnys.... if they don't leak, they're safe, you know? What would it take to make it safe>

thanks you guys. and Happy Thanksgiving to everyone!
 

jbcurt00

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May need a gut and rebuild, often because of poorly done (re-done?) repairs by a prior owner
 

driscollies

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so i'm coming from a tinny with nothing but seats, id probably gut it first anyways, is it safe to use once i gut it while I restore it as long as it floats?
 

ondarvr

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It has a fairly flat bottom and will likely pound hard in rough water, although when it's not rough it will be pretty stable and easy to plane.

Gutting normally means you've removed a good deal of the equipment that allows it to be used at all, so during the gut and rebuild process there?s a good deal of time where it's unusable, this doesn't mean you need to be 100% finished before it goes back in the water though.
 

driscollies

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It has a fairly flat bottom and will likely pound hard in rough water, although when it's not rough it will be pretty stable and easy to plane.

Gutting normally means you've removed a good deal of the equipment that allows it to be used at all, so during the gut and rebuild process there’s a good deal of time where it's unusable, this doesn't mean you need to be 100% finished before it goes back in the water though.


cool thanks yeah that was what i was wondering about because my boat now is just empty so why wont this one work if its empty? as long as it doesnt sink its usable right? what would makr it unusable? thank you, sorry i dont understand what you are saying ;) but i want to because i dont want to get ripped off
 

brian4321

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I guess as long as the structure of the hull is solid and not rotted, and as long as you don't remove any structural decking or stringers, you could probably still use it as you work on it....That strap on the out drive indicates the trim system isn't working which could be an expensive repair...what engine and out drive does it have?
 

driscollies

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hi brian yeah i don't know about the motor but it runs.

there is no floor or stringers there's just bare aluminum for the floor. there are what look like joists to maybe hold up a plywood floor but theres not floor on there now. i don't think there have ever been stringers probably
 

jbcurt00

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Post some pix of the boat in it entirety, inside up close and some distance.

It appears to be a LoneStar, and some of those arent built similarly to what many iboaters have experience with (Starcrafts).

Being in a tin boat w no interior means you're walking on the hull, ribs and stringers. If out of the water, thats not ideal. In the water, w the water pushing back, it might not be as bad as out of the water, but hard to confirm if its ok or not, until it isnt.....

Starcrafts depend on the deck and side panels in some models to strengthen the chine area. W out adequate strength and stability of thise components, they often develope rib end, hull and chine cracks.

Watermann and classiccat both had SCs w chine rail cracks and repaired them. IMO, you could cause similar problems using it w little to no interior, if those problems dont already exist. But itd be fixable...

Whats the seller asking for it?
 

Watermann

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good to know. can I ask why? I just kind of figured... old tinnys.... if they don't leak, they're safe, you know? What would it take to make it safe>

thanks you guys. and Happy Thanksgiving to everyone!


Transom, motor mount, decking, side panels are all wood. If the wood is compromised with age and or neglect then the boat is not safe being what I called compromised. The tinny's shell may keep water out but not for long if it's wooden structural integrity is missing or diminished by rot. Many thing go into a boat to make it sea worthy. If water was your element then there would be no worries but it's not, no more than fire is and water will kill you if given the chance.
 

garbageguy

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hi brian yeah i don't know about the motor but it runs.

there is no floor or stringers there's just bare aluminum for the floor. there are what look like joists to maybe hold up a plywood floor but theres not floor on there now. i don't think there have ever been stringers probably

From the info you've provided, especially this, my answer to the thread's title question would be no, not without a significant amount of work. However, we can't see or touch it. With the proper initial conditions, work ,time, and a few $, the good folks here could help you make 'er sea worthy
 

driscollies

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thx for input . sounds like floor is a big determining factor. I have never seen a tinny with a floor so i thought none of them had floors and it was fine cause they are metal.

i'm maybe okay taking on a project but it depends on the project. what goes in to redoing floors. i would guess for this boat the floor is just plywood and you cut to shape and lay it down on the metal supports. i don't think it is structural i wouldn't thnk. i used to be a carpenter so i have wood skills and tools. if it's a matter of woodwork i can do it but if i need to know special things about boat building specifically i don't have the know how
 

Watermann

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Yeah that particular tinny has something you're not considering over 12' row boats. It has 100+ HP and 100's of Lbs of cast iron in it. Which brings me to the issue of adding flotation foam to keep it afloat in a worst case scenario event.
 

jbcurt00

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Lets start w the boat, its current condition and price.

For sub $700, its a maybe, depending on your desire for a project, if the motor fires (or can be made to cheaply) and the trailer is roadworthy.

750-1500 w a running motor and more then simply roadworthy trailer.

Above 1500 is a carp shoot, IMO, given the limited info and pix.

Post a link to the ad, if you have it
 

ondarvr

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The motor will need some time and money even if it currently runs, the outdrive will need who knows how much $$$, may need to be completely replaced, don't assume it's in good shape. You may need all new steering, bilge pumps, wiring, fuel tank and lines, safety equipment, lights, electronics, now add in the other unknowns like cracks and corrosion , plus replacing the floor and other wood, seats, etc..

You will be into it for several thousand and still may not have what you want, and it won’t be worth what you have into it. I’m not saying it can't or shouldn’t be done, only that this isn’t a quick and cheap way to get out on the water fishing or boating, these projects normally take a year or so to complete, if they ever do get finished, and maybe five times the amount of money budgeted for it.

This doesn’t include the trailer, which will be a project all on its own.
 

garbageguy

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It is a cool looking boat. But not likely quick or cheap to get you on the water - safely. In the second pic in your first post, is that a big hole in the starboard hull by the bow? i think you'd really have to love this one.
 
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