I pulled my 3.0 today to replace a wobbling harmonic balancer.
(Guess those do go bad from time to time....)
Anyway, wanted to check my exhaust to see if I had the flapper or not. Heard they went away in '99.
I do have one, but it's 15% melted, still barely rotates on pivot pin, but is "sticky" and never stays in one spot.
I'm assuming these originally had some manner of spring, or was it just exhaust pressure that opened them up?
I've had problems setting idle and stumbling out of the hole w/ this boat ever since I bought it 3 years ago.
Done just about everything possible:
New 4-blade prop (helped getting out of the hole a LOT!!) WOT hits right at 4600 RPM with it.
Fuel filters
Complete carb rebuild w/ correct marine valve, 30cc pump, etc...
Correct setting of pump operating adjustment and checked other carb/choke settings--all OK.
Vacuum tuning of idle adjustment screws (about 16-17in hg; manual says 14 to 19 is "normal")
Compression test (one cylinder 18psi lower, but within volvo spec')
New plugs every spring
New rotor
New cap
Set timing (correctly, w/ jumper)
etc...etc....etc...
I'm currently ordering a new pump lever operating arm and cam just in case they're worn.
Adjusted throttle controls on boat and set some preload per Don S. instructions.
It seems like every other time I go on the water, I need to adjust the idle up or down 100 to 150 RPM to keep a consistent, warmed idle at 700RPM, in gear. Any lower sounds horrible, and stumbles horribly on throttle-up.
This is with or without the throttle from the boat disconnected.
I even called Holley two or three times. They told me I have a vacuum leak.
I sprayed carb cleaner all around the carb and lines when warmed up; RPM never moved at all. No vacuum leak.
They also told me if I back the idle screw out completely, the boat should shut off. It won't; it will only back the idle RPM down to about 600RPM, but it will still run with no primary idle screw contact.
So I will be pulling the remnants of the flapper out; I will leave the pin in to minimize the possibility of water leaks.
I'm just wondering if the flapper kept going to different positions and screwing up exhaust backpressure, and subsequently, making idle tuning a pain....
I'm also pulling the carb to try and find out why turning the main idle screw all the way out won't kill the engine.
And no, I've not had any heating issues; engine always warms up to same spot on gauge (which is horribly inaccurate, but I would guess due to the graduation marks that it always settles right around 150 degrees on the water, or on muffs).
Any thoughts???
(Guess those do go bad from time to time....)
Anyway, wanted to check my exhaust to see if I had the flapper or not. Heard they went away in '99.
I do have one, but it's 15% melted, still barely rotates on pivot pin, but is "sticky" and never stays in one spot.
I'm assuming these originally had some manner of spring, or was it just exhaust pressure that opened them up?
I've had problems setting idle and stumbling out of the hole w/ this boat ever since I bought it 3 years ago.
Done just about everything possible:
New 4-blade prop (helped getting out of the hole a LOT!!) WOT hits right at 4600 RPM with it.
Fuel filters
Complete carb rebuild w/ correct marine valve, 30cc pump, etc...
Correct setting of pump operating adjustment and checked other carb/choke settings--all OK.
Vacuum tuning of idle adjustment screws (about 16-17in hg; manual says 14 to 19 is "normal")
Compression test (one cylinder 18psi lower, but within volvo spec')
New plugs every spring
New rotor
New cap
Set timing (correctly, w/ jumper)
etc...etc....etc...
I'm currently ordering a new pump lever operating arm and cam just in case they're worn.
Adjusted throttle controls on boat and set some preload per Don S. instructions.
It seems like every other time I go on the water, I need to adjust the idle up or down 100 to 150 RPM to keep a consistent, warmed idle at 700RPM, in gear. Any lower sounds horrible, and stumbles horribly on throttle-up.
This is with or without the throttle from the boat disconnected.
I even called Holley two or three times. They told me I have a vacuum leak.
I sprayed carb cleaner all around the carb and lines when warmed up; RPM never moved at all. No vacuum leak.
They also told me if I back the idle screw out completely, the boat should shut off. It won't; it will only back the idle RPM down to about 600RPM, but it will still run with no primary idle screw contact.
So I will be pulling the remnants of the flapper out; I will leave the pin in to minimize the possibility of water leaks.
I'm just wondering if the flapper kept going to different positions and screwing up exhaust backpressure, and subsequently, making idle tuning a pain....
I'm also pulling the carb to try and find out why turning the main idle screw all the way out won't kill the engine.
And no, I've not had any heating issues; engine always warms up to same spot on gauge (which is horribly inaccurate, but I would guess due to the graduation marks that it always settles right around 150 degrees on the water, or on muffs).
Any thoughts???