Wiring Schematic

[golver]

Does anyone have the wiring schematics for:<br /><br />The starter and celinoids in a 81' Wellcraft V20 with a 165 Chevy 6L 250 mercruiser?<br /><br />And also the power trim for the same mercruiser stern drive on the same boat? The power trim panel has 3 buttons.<br /><br />All parts are stock.

 

[JB]

Re: Wiring Schematic

Have a problem with copyright laws there, Golver.<br /><br />Your best bet is a Manual. Maybe you can find one at your library, which you can legally copy.<br /><br />Good luck.

 

[18rabbit]

Re: Wiring Schematic

Originally posted by JB:<br />...Maybe you can find one at your library, which you can legally copy.

Well, you can copy it, but ...<br /><br />Although a common practice, it is no less an infringement of copyright protection to copy material obtained from a library as it is to copy material from any other source. I can see how one might think it is ok because copyright protection does not apply to the procurement of material used for school papers; the library being a common resource for such material. The library does not have a special variance for 'fair use' of any copyright protected material. Not that has ever stopped me.

 

[JB]

Re: Wiring Schematic

I don't agree, Rabbit.<br /><br />A public Library has automatic license to allow copys for "research", as you say.<br /><br />No license, no copyright.<br /><br />Sure sounds inconsistent, I agree, but that's the law.

 

[18rabbit]

Re: Wiring Schematic

Here ya go: http://fairuse.stanford.edu/ Everything you never really cared about the ‘fair use’ of copyright protected material, because you’re gonna copy it anyway. Look in the center column. Also, links to the American Library Asso in the column on the right. If you read everything at those two web sites, you qualify for an honorary PhD from Stanford University. Let me know and I’ll submit your name…tho I’m not sure “Texas Hideout” is going to fly as a mailing address.<br /><br />Bottom line: if you are copying material for personal use and it denies the copyright owner of income that they would otherwise be entitled to, it’s an infringement, regardless of how access to the original material was obtained. As previously stated, libraries do not have any special exemption of copyright protections. What you may be referring to are new guidelines (not law) being adopted for libraries to be able to digitally copy and store material without violating copyright protections. It’s a problem the ALA doesn’t know how to resolve. If you want to research the topic, do searches for “copyright fair use”.

 

[golver]

Re: Wiring Schematic

Ummmmmmmm ok, so now I know everything I needed to about copyright infringement, but my darn boat still will not run.<br /><br />Is this some sort of "let's mess with the new guy on the message board" joke or something? Did I mess up, is this not a boating forum?

 

[golver]

Re: Wiring Schematic

Go here to see pictures: http://wellcraftv20.com/gallery/ <br /><br />Look in my gallery for the Pics, Golver's 81 V20.<br /><br />Pic: Wire 1:<br />1) Hot wire - trim<br />2) Hot wire - starter<br />?) Mystery part - does not seem to be connected to anything<br /><br />Wire2:<br />1) Mystery Purple wire<br />2) Hot wire - trim<br />3) Hot wire - starter<br />4) Starter post (will turn starter when given power to here)<br /><br />Wire 3: (picture of starter)<br />1) Mystery Purple wire<br />2) Starter post (will turn starter when given power to here)<br /><br />Wire 4: Under dash<br />1) Cut yellowish wire<br />2) Where the wire was cut from<br />3) When plug is seperated, yellow wire prong is missing. looks broken off. <br /><br />I am thinking the issue is celinoids. The wires running to the celinoids in picture WIRE1 (line#1&2) are live, but nothing comes out the other side of the celinoid. Items hooked up to the celinoid do not work. <br /><br />I beleive the celinoid on the left is for the trim and may be a Ford part, the other on the right runs to the starter and may be a GM/Chevy part.<br /><br />I can not, for the life of me, figure out where the purple wire goes. It can be seen in pics Wire1, 2, & 3.<br /><br />The starter switch is ok. I ran a wire from the bolt on the starter, pic: Wire 3 (line#2), to the Solonoid post on the starter switch. It turned the engine when I turned the key.<br /><br />So what do you think, celinoids are the problem, no?<br /><br />Pic: Wire 4 questions.<br />Do you think this is the yellow wire that runs to the starter celinoid? Does it have to run through the (Line#3)plug, since the plug has a broken prong where this wire runs in, or can I just splice it past the plug? Where can I get another plug for it?

 

[waterone1@aol.com]

Re: Wiring Schematic

Golver, welcome to the Iboats forums. If you really want to see some of these guys go off the deep end, ask if you should use anti-freeze to winterize your boat......they will debate this one for weeks....and yes half of it will be about the clean water act of 1997 or whatever it is. Seriously though, we all really do try to help each other, and there are some very knowledable people here ( not me...but I try). I do not have access to the schematics you requested, but I am fairly familiar with boat electrics, so I am going to review your pics and try to offer what I can in a seperate post, once again welcome to the Iboats forums.

 

[Dunaruna]

Re: Wiring Schematic

Until you get your manual this may help, at the very least its a good reference.<br /><br /> http://www.marinemechanic.com/site/page101.html <br /><br />Aldo

 

[waterone1@aol.com]

Re: Wiring Schematic

Ok, I've looked over your pics, and I'll give it my best shot. I will first point out that someone else may know exactly what each colored wire does on this boat, but here is my 2 cents worth.<br />First the easy stuff... the "mystery part" sure looks like a hydraulic cylinder to me. Have you tried turning the steering wheel to see if the outdrive moves? It's possible that this boat may have originally had hydraulic steering, that someone later disconnected and converted to cable type steering.<br />Secondly (on the easy stuff) you asked if you could just bypass the connector under the dash for the broken yellow wire....YES, If it is just a straight through connection that does not have a jumper going to another pin on the backside of the connector. Fix this first.<br />Ok, this is where it starts getting more difficult. I would advise you to get a volt-ohm meter from radio shack....or at the very least a 12V test light. It has been my experience on newer boats (1989 and up) that merc uses purple in their primary ignition circuits (positive 12V for the ignition switch and for the coil + lead).<br />First thing to do is see if you here a "click" from the selenoid (or also called relay) when you turn the ignition switch to the start position (we are talking about the starter assist selenoid, not the one that is part of the starter itself). If you hear a click, then we know that the ignition switch has power and the COIL of the assist selenoid or relay is also getting power. If no click, then lets start at the ignition switch. With your volt meter set to dc volts, ground the black meter lead to a known good ground on the boat. Touch your red meter lead to the three screws on the back of the ignition switch one at a time (with the switch off), do you get 12 volts one one of the screws ? If no, is one of these wires purple ?<br />If the first answer is no, and the second is yes, then we need to see if that is the same wire in the engine compartment that is hanging there. Let me know what you find and we'll go from there.

 

[golver]

Re: Wiring Schematic

I get a single click from the realy with the purple wire disconnected. I do have a purple wire behind the dash, but it runs to one of the gauges. Also when I try to follow the purple wire back from the are around the starter, it disappears. I can not see where it comes out. It goes into a wrapped bunch of cables and never comes out.<br /><br />So which is better, anti-freeze or something else?

 

[waterone1@aol.com]

Re: Wiring Schematic

Ok, so from what you have told me, when you turn the key to the start position you hear a click from the starter assist relay(or solenoid). That tells us a couple of things 1) we have 12 volts at the key switch. 2)we have 12v returning to the starter assist relay. Now is where the test light or volt meter becomes usefull. The starter assist relay has four connections to it. The two small connections are the COIL connections(note: this has nothing to do with the ignition coil), these are what makes the solenoid or relay "click", so we know those are working. The two big connections are the CONTACT connections. Use your test light or volt meter (connect black lead of meter, or ground lead of test light to the engine block, or known good ground). With the red lead of meter touch it one at a time to the large connectors on the solenoid, one of them MUST have 12 Volts, if not let me know, we'll trace that out. Assuming there is 12V on one side of the solenoid, have someone turn the key to the start position, you should now have 12V on the other large connection of the solenoid. If you hear it click, and still only have 12V on one side, the solenoid is defective and needs to be replaced. Keep me posted, we'll go from there