Wiring for new bilge pump

gt2003

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 11, 2010
Messages
293
I'm replacing the switch to a 3 way Johnson bilge pump switch and also replacing the pump with an automatic Johnson L650UC. I'm going to have to run all new wires as the current pump and wires leading to it has no power and the wires are all bundled with the rest of the wires in the boat and I'd never be able to figure out where they all go.

1. Will the new pump/switch come with sufficient wire to run from the dash to the engine compartment?
2. If not, what kind of wire should I get for the task
3. I'm attaching it at the lowest point of the bilge with a vertical bracket. What adhesive is best? I've got 5200 but have heard a lot of "no's" to it

Everything should be in by the weekend so just trying to see what I need to have on hand to make the project a success. Thanks
 

Georgesalmon

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Apr 14, 2012
Messages
1,793
Doubt wires will be long enough. Usually about a foot. They don't know if you are putting it on a 12' boat or a 30' boat. You will need #14 wires but bigger is OK to. Best is tinned stranded marine wire but any stranded will also work. I screw my bracket to the transom, or ? and use the 5200 for sealing the screw holes.
 

gt2003

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 11, 2010
Messages
293
Thanks gentlemen. I've got the wire, shrink wrap butt connectors, liquid electric tape and any other connectors needed. I was worried at first about using screws to attach the bracket but I'm attaching it to the vertical surface at the "front" of the engine compartment so I can use screws without much worry of going too deep. Yes, I know this isn't the absolute, lowest point in the boat but it's darn close to where the original pump was mounted and it's about the only accessible space to put the pump. The pump, switch and mount came in today and I've already downloaded the wiring diagram so this thing is about to happen. I'll post back if questions arise. Thanks for your input. Any other words of wisdom before I proceed?
 

NYBo

Admiral
Joined
Oct 23, 2008
Messages
7,107
This may be too late, but 16 gauge will be sufficient as bilge pumps don't draw that much current. Use 3M 4200 to seal the holes; 5200 will make it almost impossible to remove the screws without damaging what they're screwed into.
 

gt2003

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 11, 2010
Messages
293
Thanks to everyone. I wired it in yesterday and mounted the Johnson 3 way switch up by the throttle. I went with epoxy for mounting the vertical pump mounting bracket to the front, lowest point of the engine compartment. I think it will hold. Lake will be semi-rough today with the wind so we'll see.. If it holds, great. If not, I'll end up screwing into the bottom of the bilge. Rain is popping up here and there so I'm glad that it's wired in and is working. I appreciate the input.
 
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