Wire gauge suggestions?(description of layout in post)

skilet

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I am rewiring a 17' Ranger bass boat (1978 1776 super a). It will have a starter battery that will also run all boat accessories (nav lights, gauges, pumps, fish finder, horn and 12v outlet incorporated into switch panel), and a deep cycle battery running a 12v minn kota 55#maxxum (variable speed) trolling motor.
Both batteries will be charged, and drawn from, through a 1,2,1+2 and off switch by the outboard (78 mercury 1150 inline 6, thunderbolt ignition)

On the starter battery, I would like to run one wire each to a positive dist. bar, and a negative dist. bar that would be located under the console(about a 8'run), and from there, wire runs to (and back from) the devices at the console, and the front nav light.
On this system I would like to hear what anyone has to suggest as far as:
1. Wire gauge from main switch to positive and negative dist. bars (8')
2. Wire gauge to and from dist. bars & console switches (2'-3' runs)
3. Wire gauge to and from switches and devices (>2' for console devices,
7' to front nav light, and 8' to rear nav light, bilge pump and trim motor)
4. Whether or not you would recommend running a second set of pos. and neg. dist. bars (located within the battery/gas tank compartment) to distribute power to the bilge pump, trim motor and rear nav light.

On the deep cycle battery, I would like to hear suggestion for wire gauge on about a 20' (one way) run to the outlet at the bow that the trolling motor will plug into.
Also, any comments or suggestions on general layout would be appreciated greatly.
Thanks for reading, hope it makes sense enough to get some answers.
Skilet

edit: I am planning on using 4awg between main switch and the bus bars, and 14awg to the devices through the switches.
On the deepcycle side, I want to use 4awg for the trolling motor...
 

skilet

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Re: Wire gauge suggestions?(description of layout in post)

edit bump....
 

skilet

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Re: Wire gauge suggestions?(description of layout in post)

I hope my post did not give you the impression that I haven't put any thought into this project... I have the book you recommend, and although I don't understand it like the back of my hand, I was hoping that this forum could serve as a place to propose my plan which is based on my (admittedly very basic) understanding of electrical systems, and get some feedback as to whether some more experienced folks think it will work as it is outlined.
I appreciate your interest in the topic.
 

envoy98

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Re: Wire gauge suggestions?(description of layout in post)

A lot of questions and scenarios in here, I'll try and hit this at a high level.

I don't think you need for 4awg to the dist blocks. 8-10awg will support 15-20 amps of current very easily. If you add up all the fuses you'll have between the dist block and it's connected devices that should give you a pretty good guesstimate on the total continuous current draw. If it's greater than 20amps, then you may need something bigger. Your trolling motor is probably going to need at least 8awg. I didn't actually measure my 24v wiring which has an 18ft run but I'm guessing it's 4 or 6awg. I don't have the boat here as it's in storage for the winter and my memory isn't great. :)

Anything with a low <10a current draw will be more than covered by 14 awg. In fact, 18awg is probably sufficient.

Noticed this in another guys post (great reference)
http://www.westmarine.com/pdf/MarineWire.pdf


I am rewiring a 17' Ranger bass boat (1978 1776 super a). It will have a starter battery that will also run all boat accessories (nav lights, gauges, pumps, fish finder, horn and 12v outlet incorporated into switch panel), and a deep cycle battery running a 12v minn kota 55#maxxum (variable speed) trolling motor.
Both batteries will be charged, and drawn from, through a 1,2,1+2 and off switch by the outboard (78 mercury 1150 inline 6, thunderbolt ignition)

On the starter battery, I would like to run one wire each to a positive dist. bar, and a negative dist. bar that would be located under the console(about a 8'run), and from there, wire runs to (and back from) the devices at the console, and the front nav light.
On this system I would like to hear what anyone has to suggest as far as:
1. Wire gauge from main switch to positive and negative dist. bars (8')
2. Wire gauge to and from dist. bars & console switches (2'-3' runs)
3. Wire gauge to and from switches and devices (>2' for console devices,
7' to front nav light, and 8' to rear nav light, bilge pump and trim motor)
4. Whether or not you would recommend running a second set of pos. and neg. dist. bars (located within the battery/gas tank compartment) to distribute power to the bilge pump, trim motor and rear nav light.

On the deep cycle battery, I would like to hear suggestion for wire gauge on about a 20' (one way) run to the outlet at the bow that the trolling motor will plug into.
Also, any comments or suggestions on general layout would be appreciated greatly.
Thanks for reading, hope it makes sense enough to get some answers.
Skilet

edit: I am planning on using 4awg between main switch and the bus bars, and 14awg to the devices through the switches.
On the deepcycle side, I want to use 4awg for the trolling motor...
 
Last edited:

seabob4

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Re: Wire gauge suggestions?(description of layout in post)

Skilet,
Well, I guess I gave you some sh!t earlier...seems people come on here wanting their boats wired for them, and it kind of ticks me off sometimes...

Now that I got that out of the way, let's see what you've got here. Dedicated starting/house batt, dedicated trolling batt, connected to a off/1/both/2 switch. First, get a BIG trolling batt (Group 27 with the biggest reserve) as this will be your backup batt should the house loads draw your starting batt down, especially livewell/aerator pumps.

Run an 8GA from the common to a 40A breaker in the bilge area, probably the batt compartment. From the breaker, feed a 12V+ buss with another 8. From this buss, run 8GA to the helm. From the 12V- on the batt, feed a neg. buss with an 8GA. Terminate all your bilge-dwelling appliances here. Run a 8 forward to the helm. All your pumps will require no more than 16GA, although 14 is preferable. If you have a macerator, you'll need 10GA, but I doubt you do.

At the helm, terminate the hot and ground 8's to two separate busses. Feed your switch panel with a 10GA. Terminate your forward appliance grounds, i.e. horn, nav lghts, cockpit lgts, etc. at the ground buss. Once again 16 will work, preferably 14. 16 will work fine for re-wiring the switch/breaker panel, but use 10 jumpers between breakers.

On the trolling motor batt to bow connection, I would use 4GA. Interrupt the hot size with a resettable breaker that MinnKota recommends.

This is a pic of a Proline 183 flats I just completely re-wired.
DSCF0781.jpg


Note how the 8GA cables (red and yellow, yellow is now the choice for 12V-) feed two busses, and from there the 10GA + feeds the switch panel, allows for easy in-line fuse termination. The 12V- busses allows termination of all the forward appliances, as well as providing a ground for the switch indicators.

Hope this helps, sorry for being a bit of a ****...
 

skilet

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Re: Wire gauge suggestions?(description of layout in post)

Thanks for the replies!
Was able to spend a few hours today reading "the bible" today, and learned a bit more, and the info in the replies is great.
I drew it out... still not quite ready, but closer...
Really appreciate the help!
Maybe... just maybe, I'll get out on the water before June!:)
By the way, I don't think it'll really change much, but I won't be running any pumps for the livewells... not allowed to use them in BC... yet.

fullboatdiagramJPEG.jpg
 

Don S

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Re: Wire gauge suggestions?(description of layout in post)

Your drawing looks good except for a couple of things that I noticed.
You have one too many battery cables. (C to Batt 1) and you should put an on/off switch to the trolling motor so you can turn off power when not in use without disconnecting the battery. Blue Seas carries the small mini switchs that would work fine.

I touched up your drawing to show the changes I would make.


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Isaacm1986

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Re: Wire gauge suggestions?(description of layout in post)

This is very helpful, I have a 76 ranger bass boat as well I am restoring and will need to completely rewire it! Thanks for posting this.
 

skilet

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Re: Wire gauge suggestions?(description of layout in post)

Thanks for the suggestions Don S.... I'll post a few pics of the boat as soon as I can...
Although I have been looking for a similar project to compare to, I have been unable to find one until your post IsaacM.... looks like virtually identical hull...
my deck is a little soft in spots, and I'll tackle that in the next couple of years...good to see pics of what I'll be getting into!
 

seabob4

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Re: Wire gauge suggestions?(description of layout in post)

Skilet,


...Now, run a 8GA from the pos. term of your starting batt to the common of the switch.

Damn, what was I thinking??? PUI, I guess...:rolleyes:
 

skilet

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Re: Wire gauge suggestions?(description of layout in post)

Getting all the wire, switches, and bars tommorrow, and got to thinking about the breaker in the trolling motor circuit... Don S. had suggested putting the switch in between the battery and the breaker, but I have been looking at a fuse holder that is installed directly on the battery post... which obviously would put the switch between the breaker and the device. Doesn't seem like a big deal to me, but can anyone see why one should not do that?

Edit: Also, any suggestions on a breaker solution for between the switch common and the bilge area + buss?
Thanks for reading
 

seabob4

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Re: Wire gauge suggestions?(description of layout in post)

Edit: Also, any suggestions on a breaker solution for between the switch common and the bilge area + buss?
Thanks for reading

Have you thought about a Bussman like this one?
prod_24_bus_185PP.jpg
 

skilet

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Re: Wire gauge suggestions?(description of layout in post)

Thanks for the suggestion...I saw those in the catalog, they look easy enough to mount...
 

seabob4

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Re: Wire gauge suggestions?(description of layout in post)

Thanks for the suggestion...I saw those in the catalog, they look easy enough to mount...

Skillet, the one I showed you is a "panel" mount. You want to get the surface mount.
 
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