winterizing questions

dtro

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 9, 2001
Messages
43
I have a '94 evinrude 70 hp. Here's what I plan on doing.<br /><br />1. Seafoam in gas to stabilize it.<br /><br />2. Seafoam in cylinders.<br /><br />3. Drain gearlube. (or should I replace lube)<br /><br />What other things should I do? Are there things I shouldn't do?<br /><br />I know there are a lot of very experienced people here, so this should be a softball.
 

JasonJ

Rear Admiral
Joined
Aug 20, 2001
Messages
4,163
Re: winterizing questions

Replace gearlube with fresh lube. Never leave it empty, could cause corrosion problems if any moisture is in there, and seals could possibly fail. Have as little fuel as possible in tank (so there is less to have to mix with fresh gas in the spring), make sure to pump fuel with the stabilizer up to the bowls, and keep engine vertical (if its an outboard) so the fuel stays level and as high as possible in the bowls.
 

dtro

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 9, 2001
Messages
43
Re: winterizing questions

Thanks, sounds good. When you say to keep it vertical, should I not store it with the "flip lock" in place. Which is in somewhat upright position, but should help the transom I would think?
 

OBMD

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Sep 2, 2001
Messages
46
Re: winterizing questions

I would use a factory stabilizer or Sta-bil in the fuel. Is Sea-Foam a true stabilizer? I would also use fogging oil in the cylinders. Sea-Foam could wash off the oil left on the cyl walls causing rust issues. Grease all fittings. Spray down block with CRC or like product.
 

my new fishmaster

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 11, 2001
Messages
256
Re: winterizing questions

I purchased mercury oil winterizer squirt in the plug openings. Then turned my engine over by hand clockwise direction and then reinstalled the plugs.
 

TONY H

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 2, 2001
Messages
115
Re: winterizing questions

On my '87 I have had excellent luck with.<br /><br />warming the engine up, then running the motor with a 'Y' in the hose for the muffs. I turn off the fresh water at the same time I pour a gallon of anti freeze in the other 'Y' section. When I see the antifreeze coming out the Pee hole I shut it down. Any antifreeze residue left after the motor drains will be rust insurance and no chance of any pockets freezing.<br /><br />Then I open up the screws on my carbs to totally drain the bowls. This leaves no gas to gum up.<br /><br />after the motor cools, I fully tilt the motor and put a whiskey jigger full of two cycle oil in each cylinder. just tap the key so it is forced up each cylinder. Put the plugs back in.<br /><br />Replace the lower gear oil. This is basically just to make sure you didn't have water getting in there during the season.<br /><br />I pull the prop off and keep it in my basement. The extreme cold could affect the logevity of the Hub Rubber (i still have the original prop).<br /><br />Keep the enging in the full down position. Water getting in the lower casing area could freeze and crack the casing.<br /><br />I spray the engine with a WD-40 or equiv. to keep the moisture off the block.<br /><br />Grease up all the fittings.<br /><br />Gas stabilizer in the tank.<br /><br />That's all I do to the motor. It goes quick.<br /><br />Even though many people may not agree, I've done this since '87 with no problems what so ever.
 

dtro

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 9, 2001
Messages
43
Re: winterizing questions

Thanks for all the great tips guys, they will come in handy!
 
Top