Winterizing question

[2550SX]

1992 Chaparral 454 with a Bravo 1. I bought the boat 3 years ago and the previous 2 years I would begin winterizing by remove the drain plugs from the block and manifolds. Once the water stopped dripping I would Install the drain plugs and pull the water inlet hose off of the thermostat housing and using a short 1-1/4" piece of heater hose and a funnel fill the block with some pink PG antifreeze until pink fluid would start dripping from the exhaust port on the drive. Then I would pour pink antifreeze down the inlet hose to force water out of the raw water pump. It would go slowly as the antifreeze would have to get around the impeller but eventually it would go down and the clear water that was getting pushed out of the pickup holes in the drive would transition to pink then I knew I was done.

This year the combo raw water pump / fuel pump went bad and because the rear seat on my boat is not removable and I have a tough time reaching down under the engine to access the pump I just bit the bullet and had the marina install a new one. Had I know it was going to be $900 I would have figured a way to have done it my self, but I digress.

This year i followed the same procedure as the last 2 years and everything was going fine until I started pouring antifreeze down the inlet hose. The antifreeze is just standing there, not getting past the pump. No water is being pushed out of the pickup holes in the drive. I tried bumping the engine a few times to rotate the impeller to see if that would help, but noting. The pink antifreeze is staying at the top of the inlet hose. I cannot figure this out. The last two years it slowly went down but it went down. This year with the new pump it does not move. It looks like I will have to contort myself into the engine bay and remove the hose from the pump in efforts to get the water out. But I ask, am I doing something wrong? Do newer pumps come with a check valve somewhere that I do not know about? It it possible because the pump and impeller are brand new this season with less than 5 hours on them I is just sealed that well?

 

[Drcoffee]

Check Out this video. If you dont fill with AF, leave the plugs out.
He says to burp the impeller by spinning the engine without starting it. There should be a small air bleed hole in the pump to let the tower of water drain out. It may be clogged.

I decided to fill mine with AF because there are internal parts that will rust out if not protected. Such as head gaskets. $12 of antifreeze is cheap insurance.

 

[achris]

If the head gaskets rust out, then you are using automotive head gaskets, not marine. Marine head gaskets don't have any steel in them, only composite or stainless....

 

[Scott Danforth]

1992 Chaparral 454 with a Bravo 1. I bought the boat 3 years ago and the previous 2 years I would begin winterizing by remove the drain plugs from the block and manifolds. Once the water stopped dripping I would Install the drain plugs and pull the water inlet hose off of the thermostat housing and using a short 1-1/4" piece of heater hose and a funnel fill the block with some pink PG antifreeze until pink fluid would start dripping from the exhaust port on the drive. Then I would pour pink antifreeze down the inlet hose to force water out of the raw water pump. It would go slowly as the antifreeze would have to get around the impeller but eventually it would go down and the clear water that was getting pushed out of the pickup holes in the drive would transition to pink then I knew I was done.

This year the combo raw water pump / fuel pump went bad and because the rear seat on my boat is not removable and I have a tough time reaching down under the engine to access the pump I just bit the bullet and had the marina install a new one. Had I know it was going to be $900 I would have figured a way to have done it my self, but I digress.

This year i followed the same procedure as the last 2 years and everything was going fine until I started pouring antifreeze down the inlet hose. The antifreeze is just standing there, not getting past the pump. No water is being pushed out of the pickup holes in the drive. I tried bumping the engine a few times to rotate the impeller to see if that would help, but noting. The pink antifreeze is staying at the top of the inlet hose. I cannot figure this out. The last two years it slowly went down but it went down. This year with the new pump it does not move. It looks like I will have to contort myself into the engine bay and remove the hose from the pump in efforts to get the water out. But I ask, am I doing something wrong? Do newer pumps come with a check valve somewhere that I do not know about? It it possible because the pump and impeller are brand new this season with less than 5 hours on them I is just sealed that well?

the new pump is not worn like the old pump, hence the reason you cant dribble AF past it.

 

[2550SX]

the new pump is not worn like the old pump, hence the reason you cant dribble AF past it.

you are probably right.

I disconnected the hose from the pump and drained it.

Why rear bench seats are not removable is beyond me.

 

[Scott Danforth]

you are probably right.

I disconnected the hose from the pump and drained it.

Why rear bench seats are not removable is beyond me.

They most likely are. Just have to pull the screws

 

[achris]

...Why rear bench seats are not removable is beyond me.

Because manufacturers (and buyers) are cheap!

It would cost more (in time and materials) to build removable seats. Since most buyer shop on price if boat A is $50 more expensive because it has removable seats, he's going to buy boat B.

Chris...........