Winterizing Plumbing?

[hostage]

My Cuddy has a head w/ internal plumbing, if it was winterized last year and I never used the head, is there anything that needs to be winterized for this coming winter?

Thanks,

Hostage

 

[shrew]

Re: Winterizing Plumbing?

I would do the following for piece of mind.

1) Get some propylene glycol (The Pink Marine/RV antifreeze sold at any marine or RV store).

2) Set the flush lever to Dry Flush (I'm assuming it's a manual pump head)

3) Pour a few gallons into the head and pump it back to the holding tank. (Obviously you may need to pour a little, pump a little, pour a little, pump a little.

4) If the boat is beign stored on land, open the seacock for the head (technically you should be opening ALL seacocks if stored on land over the winter).

You should be all set.

If you have a head, I'm assuming you also have a sink and water tank. However you didn't ask about those, so I assume either you're all set or don't have them.

 

[green anchors]

Re: Winterizing Plumbing?

Shrew,

Sounds easy enough, thanks. I do have a sink and water tank and also a shower(im thinking nothing needed with that but not sure) so please do tell.

 

[Gromulin]

Re: Winterizing Plumbing?

4) If the boat is beign stored on land, open the seacock for the head (technically you should be opening ALL seacocks if stored on land over the winter).

I have a similar boat with a pump head and water tank. Why open the seacock to the Head? Just curious, since it's basically a dry pipe, 4' long from the seacock to the head. Just seems like a place for bugs and critters to make a winter home if the seacock is open.

 

[shrew]

Re: Winterizing Plumbing?

Leave all the seacocks open when winter storing on land to ensure that gravity allows any water to drain from the system out the of the boat. If you were to close the seacock then haul the boat then there would be a good chance there is water still be in the lines. This is the same principal behind why you shut off the water to exterior spigots on a house, then open the exterior spigots. If ANY water is left inside, it is given room for expansion. Expanding ice will always take the path of least resistance. It will go out an open pipe before it expands and breaks them. Of course, by opening all the seacocks once the boat is on land will take care of purging a majority of the water in there anyway.


As far as the water tank, pressure water pump and water lines go, I do the following:

1) Run all the faucets (both hot and cold) until the water tank is empty.

2) (IF you have a hot water heater); Shut the breaker to the hot water heater off.

3) (If you have a hot water heater); Open the vent at the top of the tank and then open the drain at the bottom to drain the hot water heater. You may also find it easier to drain if you open a hot water tap or two.

4) Pour the pink propylene glycol into the water tank. (It will take several gallons). If you have a hot water heater, you'll need enough propylene glycol to fill the hot water heater and the hot water lines. (You can install a hot water heater bypass to save on the amount of propylene glycol you need to use for this process. (If you do have a bypass, make sure to use a funnel and pour a few cups into the hot water fill until the hot water heater drain starts discharing pure pink propylene glycol).

5) close the drain to the hotwater heater as well as the vent.


6) Turn on every single tap (both hot and cold) for all faucets. (Don't forget freshwater washdowns, transom showers, etc.) until every tap starts puring pure pink propylene glycol.

7) shut off the pressure water pump switch.

8) Open all the taps.

9) open the drain for the hot water tank and the vent.

you should be all set.