Winterizing fuel/oil mix for MPI's

[badrano]

Reading up I see that the fuel injected engines have a different way of fogging.

What type of tank do you use? Like a 3 gallon above deck or home made?

How long do you need to run the engine on that mixture?

 

[QBhoy]

I just run the main tank as low as possible to a couple of litres. Then add 5 litres of fuel and oil mix at about 40-1. The manual suggests stronger, but not sure I’m taking to that.
Then I run the engine as long as I dare on that to make sure it’s went through and get as littoe left in the tank as possible.

 

[muc]

I just run the main tank as low as possible to a couple of litres. Then add 5 litres of fuel and oil mix at about 40-1. The manual suggests stronger, but not sure I’m taking to that.
Then I run the engine as long as I dare on that to make sure it’s went through and get as littoe left in the tank as possible.

I don’t think this method is a good idea. A small built in fuel tank will have 2-4 gallons left in it when “empty” a large tank can have 10-20 gallons. When using 2 stroke oil, ratio is important.

Suggest you use a “outboard style” tank for this job. The primer bulb they have will allow you to fill the fuel filter.

10-20 minutes depending on how much fuel was left in the system.

When a pro winterizes, we change the fuel filters first and then run the engine on the storage mix to warm up the oil and also while we are flushing the antifreeze through.

Do NOT run any of the new engines out of fuel, especially the catalyst engines.

 

[badrano]

I don’t think this method is a good idea. A small built in fuel tank will have 2-4 gallons left in it when “empty” a large tank can have 10-20 gallons. When using 2 stroke oil, ratio is important.

Suggest you use a “outboard style” tank for this job. The primer bulb they have will allow you to fill the fuel filter.

10-20 minutes depending on how much fuel was left in the system.

When a pro winterizes, we change the fuel filters first and then run the engine on the storage mix to warm up the oil and also while we are flushing the antifreeze through.

Do NOT run any of the new engines out of fuel, especially the catalyst engines.

Thanks.

I typically, at least on my last boat, change the fuel filter first with a cold engine, then run to warm up and change oil.

 

[QBhoy]

I don’t think this method is a good idea. A small built in fuel tank will have 2-4 gallons left in it when “empty” a large tank can have 10-20 gallons. When using 2 stroke oil, ratio is important.

Suggest you use a “outboard style” tank for this job. The primer bulb they have will allow you to fill the fuel filter.

10-20 minutes depending on how much fuel was left in the system.

When a pro winterizes, we change the fuel filters first and then run the engine on the storage mix to warm up the oil and also while we are flushing the antifreeze through.

Do NOT run any of the new engines out of fuel, especially the catalyst engines.

Smart craft helps me Muc. But agree otherwise

 

[muc]

Smart craft helps me Muc. But agree otherwise

I was referring to the amount of fuel below the dip tube. The dip tube ends about 1” to 2” from the bottom of the tank. So even if you run out of gas, there will still be a lot of gas still in the tank.

Not sure that SmartCraft will help with that. I think it just reports the amount of usable fuel remaining?

 

[QBhoy]

I was referring to the amount of fuel below the dip tube. The dip tube ends about 1” to 2” from the bottom of the tank. So even if you run out of gas, there will still be a lot of gas still in the tank.

Not sure that SmartCraft will help with that. I think it just reports the amount of usable fuel remaining?

Hi Muc.

My vessel view is calibrated from literally as close to absolute zero as possible. So it relies on me telling it what fuel is in it. Not the tank sender. Should have said that previously, apologies. (Although with the traditional smart craft on the outboard boat...I can calibrate it too, near as damn it.)It will certainly be within a litre of fuel accurate. Worst case. As in zero’d on the stage of running out. I do this every year before winter. Always been spot on. Just my way of doing it.
i go a little weaker than the recommendation though anyway. Seems a little strong to me.

Other advantage of doing this way using main tank is that a good tcw3 oil has plenty goodness and additives in it, for what little fuel may or may not be left in the tank and system. My way of thinking anyway at least. If there is a good reason not to, I’d listen and take note. But been doing this for years (having never liked the idea of fogging internally with sensor dependant engines) and touch wood...she is ok still.

 

[Cortes100]

I have one of the new Merc 4.5L V6's and do run a fuel cocktail when winterizing. First I throw some stabil in the main fuel tank and run to warm up engine.
Next step, I disconnect main fuel line and stuff it in a small jerry can containing my special cocktail (premium fuel, stabil, 2 stroke oil). I believe the manual says 20/1 so that's what I do. Manual also states to mix up several gallons, but in real life it only uses a couple litres (1/2 gallon) to go through all the winterizing steps.

Been doing it like that for 3 winters and the engine starts right up in the spring. Not sure if this is really necessary, but don't mind the extra effort to keep things in perfect shape. My Merc dealer is a couple hours away, and they say they run a special cocktail on the new engines.

 

[Stinnett21]

I plan my last outing on the water as my winterization run. Oil is changed prior to this trip. I put Stabil in tank prior to the run and take a remote 3 gal tank with 2 gal of fuel, Stabil and 10:1 2 stroke oil mixture. I have access cleared prior to the trip. When I'm ready to throw in the towel on the season I get close to the ramp, anchor, remove old filter, prime new filter and install, remove fuel line (I put an outboard quick disconnect in the boats fuel line to prevent the tank emptying in the bilge), connect the remote tank and go for a ride. Once the gauge moves down enough on the fog tank I hit the ramp. Now I used to not do it this way. I used to do what Manual 31 says...that is remove the filter and fill with correct 2 stroke ratio...but running on muffs I could NEVER tell when the mixture reached the engine. It never smoked. Not a bit. So I adopted the remote tank system instead. I dump what's left in the remote tank into the tow vehicle.