Winterizing a 4 stroke

[kev_alaska]

Is there any difference in the fogging (winter layup) procedure for a two stroke versus a four stroke? My fogging procedure does not make this distinction, so I wanted to ask before proceeding. Capt. Ken, these are Yamahas, so any information not in the manual would be appreciated. <br /><br />9.9 6G8 T99ELRT<br />50 62Y F50TLRT<br /><br />Kev_Alask***

 

[kev_alaska]

Re: Winterizing a 4 stroke

^

 

[kev_alaska]

Re: Winterizing a 4 stroke

Last bump I am gonna do this tonight...<br /><br />kev_alask***

 

[BillP]

Re: Winterizing a 4 stroke

kevalaska,<br /><br />Fogging may help the pistons/cyls but the valve train will not benefit from that. I would consider changing the crankcase oil to a heavier vis just for storage...that is to keep the parts coated for the storage season. Then crank the motor and let the oil lube the top end before shutting down. Drain and put your normal viscosity back at start of season. I don't think this would hurt anything and oil clinging to the parts would certainly help prevent corrosion.<br /><br />I have a Mariner 50hp 4 stroke and took the large oil fill cap off while idling at 700 rpms. There was lots of oil flowing but very little spray or mist hitting the valves and springs at this speed. I am presuming it takes some speed to get everything really coated with oil. <br /><br />bp

 

[kev_alaska]

Re: Winterizing a 4 stroke

Thanks bill, I will add that to my checklist for the layup. Snow in the mountains here is driving me to change toys.....<br /><br />Kev_alask***

 

[Forktail]

Re: Winterizing a 4 stroke

Yea, how bout that snow! 25F here this morning.<br /><br />In basic terms, my 9.9 4-stroke manual says:<br /><br />1. Flush the motor with fresh water and wash the motor body.<br /><br />2. Remove the fuel line connections from motor.<br /><br />3. Run the engine at idle speed until the carb is empty (stalls). Don't forget to supply it with water while you run it!<br /><br />4. Completely drain the water out of the motor.<br /><br />5. Remove the spark plugs, pour a teaspoon full of clean engine oil into each cylinder and replace spark plugs. Slowly turn the engine over a few times to disperse the oil.<br /><br />6. Store the outboard in the upright position to keep the oil sump from draining into the cylinders.<br /><br />7. Store the engine in a dry, ventilated area.<br /><br />I always grease and do a lower unit lube change too. Spraying the inside down with a drying silicone is a good idea too.<br /><br />The only difference on my fuel injected Yammies is that you need to drain the gasoline from the vapor separator.<br /><br />Good luck.

 

[BillP]

Re: Winterizing a 4 stroke

How long do you park the engines in Alaska?<br /> <br />Forktail...since the instructions don't say anything about the valve train, do you see any signs of rust up on the springs from sitting all winter? Thats the part that concerns me with 4 strokes. <br /><br />My 50 top end parts are really dry after sitting just an hour or two. I let it sit once for only a month and could see rust starting on the top of the only visible (viewed through the oil fill) valve spring. The engine sits on a boat that is hung over the water in a boathouse and I'm in humid Florida.

 

[kev_alaska]

Re: Winterizing a 4 stroke

I have been pouring over my factory service manuals for the fogging process for the 4 strokes. Neither one has a procedure. Never thought to look in the owner's manual. Both of them have good procedures. <br /><br />I will have the boats put from now until April-May. Depends on when the snow goes away and the Kings begin showing up in numbers....Snowmobiles are what come out now until April...<br /><br />kev_alask***

 

[BillP]

Re: Winterizing a 4 stroke

I just looked at my Mariner handbook for storage...pretty much the same as Forktail's. The biggest difference is it says to treat the fuel with stabilizer and run the engine for 10 minutes to let the carbs fill with the treated fuel. Presumption here is you leave the carbs full and don't run them dry. I quit running carbs dry a long time ago and the carb cleaning problems stopped. The gas just smells old but remains in the liquid state.<br /><br />There is no mention of preventive maintenance for the top end and storage.

 

[Forktail]

Re: Winterizing a 4 stroke

Bill, how long your outboard is stored depends on where you live up here. It's a big place with many different climates. I'm in South Central Alaska where I use my outboards hunting and fishing sometimes into November, and start on winter kings early March. So about 4 months. I have wintered my boats in-harbor over the winter with occasional use, but its not worth the hassle.<br /><br />Storage here is usually out of the water. It's very dry with virtually no humidity at all in the winter. Maybe that's why I've never noticed any rust on the valve trains of my 4's? They seem to always have a thin film of oil coating them.<br /><br />Fogging probably can't hurt. But I can't see how it would help the valve train much. Really the only way the fogging solution could coat these parts is to seep past the valve guides or enter through the crankcase ventilation system. I would think the pressurized oil system and heavier weight oil (than the fog) would be better.<br /><br />I always thought that fogging oil was great for carb parts, reed valves, piston/cylinder parts that the open transfer ports of 2-strokes expose, and the non-pressurized bearing lubrication system that 2-strokes have.<br /><br />Probably a matter of preference with the fuel draining. Leaving it in there is probably ok for short storage periods. But for longer periods, even with the stabilizer, the fuel will eventually evaporate and gum.