Winterizing 3.0

[blue2]

Hi,

First time I am winterizing and just want to make sure I did understand things correctly. I have a mercruiser 3.0 from 2003.

Should I drained the engine using single point drain system (markt A in pic) Removed hose B and pour antifreeze until it begins to drain from the blue hoses (A) Then reattach hoses A and B.

Should I pour any any antifreeze in hose C??

Thanks in advance

http://www.pixbox.se/pic_show_id32761406.html

 

[Burley1]

Re: 3.0L mercruiser - antifreeze

Re: 3.0L mercruiser - antifreeze

Yes drain water from single point system then poor antifreeze in hoses B and C. Also poor antifreeze in hose beneath hose c. Antifreeze from hose under c should run out of leg. I plan to winterize my boat this weekend and will let You know how it goes.

Hi,

First time I am winterizing and just want to make sure I did understand things correctly. I have a mercruiser 3.0 from 2003.

Should I drained the engine using single point drain system (markt A in pic) Removed hose B and pour antifreeze until it begins to drain from the blue hoses (A) Then reattach hoses A and B.

Should I pour any any antifreeze in hose C??

Thanks in advance

http://www.pixbox.se/pic_show_id32761406.html

 

[achris]

Re: 3.0L mercruiser - antifreeze

Re: 3.0L mercruiser - antifreeze

Hi all,

A few points in this thread worry me...

1. Why are you leaving liquid in the block and manifold? Drain it all out. Air don't freeze! If there are any pockets of plain water left in the block after running with antifreeze (and there will be) they will freeze and could do some damage.
2. Alpha One (Gen II) drives do not completely drain in the down position. All the water inside the pump housing, water tubes and what use to be the old water pocket cover, can't drain out, because of the impeller. It would be best to remove the drive (only takes 6 minutes) and store it somewhere warmer and dry. You're going to have to take it off in spring anyway, so why not now? It will save the rubber impeller from getting frozen too.
3. Engine blocks and manifolds should be drained by removing the brass plugs and making sure they are clear using a bit of wire. Do not rely on the factory fitted drain system, especially the single point. Ports clog up and you will be leaving water in the block... We know that never ends happily.

HTH,

Chris.............

 

[blue2]

Re: 3.0L mercruiser - antifreeze

Re: 3.0L mercruiser - antifreeze

Hi all,

For every post I read about winterizing I only get more and more confused. Mostly because it dont seams to be any standard. Some say that you should drain the system and dont care about using antifreeze at all, some say drain and fill with antifreeze and some say drain, fill with antifreeze and drain again.

A couple of things that I dont understand:

If I drain there might be some water left and if it going to freeze its going to expend. I hope that after draining there will be more air than water in the system. Should not the water be able to expand without damaging anything due to the fact that there is room (air) to expend to?

The second thing, if I drain and fill with antifreeze, all the pockets should be field with antifreeze or is that impossible in practice? If the antifreeze gets in contact with any remaining water it should be mixed ?

Draining the system once again after pouring in the antifreeze, should only leave (if it leaves any) antifreeze in some small pockets and that would not freeze?

Just some thought from a newbie.

Now, if the single point draining system wont do the job to drain all the water where are the additional draining plugs located on a mercruiser from 2003?

achris*
What I dont understand when you say

1. Why are you leaving liquid in the block and manifold? Drain it all out. Air don't freeze! If there are any pockets of plain water left in the block after running with antifreeze (and there will be) they will freeze and could do some damage.

Why would it be more plain water pockets when you pour in antifreeze vs only draining the system. The antifreeze should be homogeneous or?

Just trying to understand

BR

 

[Bondo]

Re: 3.0L mercruiser - antifreeze

Re: 3.0L mercruiser - antifreeze

Now, if the single point draining system wont do the job to drain all the water where are the additional draining plugs located on a mercruiser from 2003?

Ayuh,... If ya understand yer motor, 'n know what to drain, 'n how to do it, there ain't No water left anywhere in it...
An ounce or 2 won't/ can't hurt a thing, cause as you state, it can expand...
'course, it'll have evaporated long before it can freeze anyways...

as noted above, the convenience of the single point drain, only fattens the bottom line of Merc. 'n their mechanics...
It's a poorly thought out idea, that doesn't take into account the variables, namely, Crud...

Yer better off, rippin' the whole system out, 'n replacin' it with a couple of brass drain plugs from yer local hardware store...
Then,...
When ya unscrew the brass plug, stick a nail or screw into the hole, 'n knock the Crud outa the way,...
Ya KNOW it's drained, Dry....

 

[Don S]

Re: 3.0L mercruiser - antifreeze

Re: 3.0L mercruiser - antifreeze

If I drain there might be some water left and if it going to freeze its going to expend.

if the engine is level, and you make sure the drains hole are clear, then there will not be any place for water to stand, freeze, expand, and break something.
It might have a small amout somewhere, but it can not be enough to actually damage anything. The engines that are getting cracked blocks were not drained at all, or the hole was plugged up and nothing drained.
It's just that simple.

Should not the water be able to expand without damaging anything due to the fact that there is room (air) to expend to?

Absolutely

The second thing, if I drain and fill with antifreeze, all the pockets should be field with antifreeze or is that impossible in practice? If the antifreeze gets in contact with any remaining water it should be mixed ?

Water and anti freeze does not mix just by being next to water, if you pour in antifreeze and there is a 1/4" of water left, it will agitate and mix. Even if it didn't that small bit of water can't break anything.

Draining the system once again after pouring in the antifreeze, should only leave (if it leaves any) antifreeze in some small pockets and that would not freeze?

True, but if you put antifreeze in, why take it back out ????????? Why not just leave it out to begin with?

Now, if the single point draining system wont do the job to drain all the water where are the additional draining plugs located on a mercruiser from 2003?

My problem exactly, even in the service manual it suggest you remove everything and clean the holes out. So why have the super dangerous single point drain that may not work, installed to begin with.
It's a sick joke by Mercruiser to sell engine blocks I guess, because all it does is cost money and gets in the way of doing the draining properly.

 

[Bondo]

Re: 3.0L mercruiser - antifreeze

Re: 3.0L mercruiser - antifreeze

Ayuh,... The single digit wooped ya this time, fer a change,....

 

[Don S]

Re: 3.0L mercruiser - antifreeze

Re: 3.0L mercruiser - antifreeze

I knew when I stopped half way through to fix a sandwich this would happen ......

 

[blue2]

Re: 3.0L mercruiser - antifreeze

Re: 3.0L mercruiser - antifreeze

Thanks for the reply,

Don, should I let the antifreeze be left in the system during the winter?

Thanks

 

[Bondo]

Re: 3.0L mercruiser - antifreeze

Re: 3.0L mercruiser - antifreeze

Thanks for the reply,

Don, should I let the antifreeze be left in the system during the winter?

Thanks

Ayuh,... It's up to you...

 

[CRay45DB]

Re: Winterizing 3.0

Or there is another way.

As noted, when you drain, your going to get all the water out. I have seen people use shop vans and blowers. The other problem is you have cast iron no exposed to air=rust. So go to Walmart and pick up some muffs. You should have them anyways. They will have a fancy square plastic container with a spichot on it. You can buy that or I use a home depot bucker with a whole in it that I put a spichot in. Buy a couple gallons of anti-freeze. Don't dilute! Yes it will. Never get To -50 but it will dilute when it hits the water pockets in your engine. Attach the muffs, connect the container of anti-freeze, start your engine, as soon as your peeing pink, count to 5 and your done. It takes me more time to open the gallons of anti-freeze than tomwinterize.

Let me know if you're unclear about anything.

And always leave your antifreeze in.

 

[Bondo]

Re: Winterizing 3.0

The other problem is you have cast iron no exposed to air=rust.

Ayuh,... Cast Iron rusts at about the same rate, whether dry or wet...

 

[HT32BSX115]

Re: Winterizing 3.0

Attach the muffs, connect the container of anti-freeze, start your engine, as soon as your peeing pink, count to 5 and your done. It takes me more time to open the gallons of anti-freeze than tomwinterize.

Let me know if you're unclear about anything.

And always leave your antifreeze in.

Um..... DO NOT EVER "WINTERIZE" A RAW WATER COOLED ENGINE THIS WAY!!!


Some people reading this will just do it without draining anything and think they are "good"!


Running an engine for only 5min may not open the thermostat at all!!!

Little or NO antifreeze will will enter the block. AND if the T-stat DOES open it will only open a tiny bit running the engine at idle on Muffs.

you might mix SOME of the antifreeze with what's already in the block but depending on how much water is in the block (or if you didn't drain the block) it won't be enough.


JUST DRAIN THE BLOCK.!


Oh, and a 3.0L engine is one of the easiest ones to do after you remove the "single point" system.

Just drop on over to Your local True Value or Home Depot and get some brass fittings to screw into the block and manifold drains. either use t-tape or pipe "dope" to lube them up so they come out easily next winter. (don't forget to change your oils before layup too)


Regards,


Rick

 

[CRay45DB]

Re: Winterizing 3.0

Um..... DO NOT EVER "WINTERIZE" A RAW WATER COOLED ENGINE THIS WAY!!!




Some people reading this will just do it without draining anything and think they are "good"!


Running an engine for only 5min may not open the thermostat at all!!!

Little or NO antifreeze will will enter the block. AND if the T-stat DOES open it will only open a tiny bit running the engine at idle on Muffs.

you might mix SOME of the antifreeze with what's already in the block but depending on how much water is in the block (or if you didn't drain the block) it won't be enough.


JUST DRAIN THE BLOCK.!


Oh, and a 3.0L engine is one of the easiest ones to do after you remove the "single point" system.

Just drop on over to Your local True Value or Home Depot and get some brass fittings to screw into the block and manifold drains. either use t-tape or pipe "dope" to lube them up so they come out easily next winter. (don't forget to change your oils before layup too)


Regards,


Rick

Yes, you do have to warm it up to get the thermostat open, but if I am seeing Purple after one gallon, thermostat is not open, However once the water is coming out nice and hot I works nicely.

I have a Yammy outboard that is "self-draining" for 6k to replace, you think I'm going to self-drain? Send it Yammy and they will tell you did it wrong. My other boat has diesels, winterize the same exact way, just with a lot more anti freeze. Those are 150k each. I sleep good everynight knowing there filled with anti-freeze. -60 gives you rust inhibitor stuff as well. I know one person that has cracked a block....they drained it. your dealer will run anti-freeze, yes to make more money, but they have to stand behind there work, so what is the safest way?For 6 bucks in anti-freeze, its pretty cheap insurance. Remember, alot of engines are not self draining, the only sure thing is anti-freeze.

 

[Coyotewayne]

Re: Winterizing 3.0

I was also confused by all the different information I was/am reading so I call three (3) service shops here in the Seattle area and was told by all of the that if I were to bring it in all they would do is add fuel stabilizer and run for about 15 minutes on muffs then Fog the carb until stall. Drain the water while the T-stat was still open/hot. Change engine the oil/filter. Change the outdrive oil. Cost $150. THEY DO NOT ADD ANTIFREEZE! If I wanted it added it would cost another $100. I even had one of the guys tell me "Air Don't Freeze":facepalm:

 

[Don S]

Re: Winterizing 3.0

Closed......

Same comments, different year.

 

[Bondo]

Re: Winterizing 3.0

Yes, you do have to warm it up to get the thermostat open, but if I am seeing Purple after one gallon, thermostat is not open, However once the water is coming out nice and hot I works nicely.

I have a Yammy outboard that is "self-draining" for 6k to replace, you think I'm going to self-drain? Send it Yammy and they will tell you did it wrong. My other boat has diesels, winterize the same exact way, just with a lot more anti freeze. Those are 150k each. I sleep good everynight knowing there filled with anti-freeze. -60 gives you rust inhibitor stuff as well. I know one person that has cracked a block....they drained it. your dealer will run anti-freeze, yes to make more money, but they have to stand behind there work, so what is the safest way?For 6 bucks in anti-freeze, its pretty cheap insurance. Remember, alot of engines are not self draining, the only sure thing is anti-freeze.

aaaahh,... Nope,... That person DIDN'T Drain it....

If they had Drained it, it wouldn't have Cracked,.... Period....

Pretty much only outboard boat motors are Self draining,...
But,....
ALL water cooled motors are Drainable...
The only Trick is, ya gotta understand water flows downhill, 'n every drain Probably has crud behind it that needs prodding with a screw or something to get the water flowing....
Ya might also have to pull a hose end or 2...

But All motors are Drainable, 'n Air, just Don't Freeze...