agallant80
Commander
- Joined
- Oct 25, 2010
- Messages
- 2,328
I removed the three plugs, drained all of the water, poored in a gallon of the pink stuff, turned the motor over for about 30 sec and removed the plugs. Do you think I am OK?
Maybe a stupid question but why didn't you just run the engine up to temp on muffs and then suck up the anti-freeze "pink stuff" through the muffs and into the engine until you saw it coming out the drive exhaust?
Because that is a SURE way to end up with a cracked block. Protects the manifolds, but does little for the block.
That has been discussed so many times it's like an oil thread.
Yes, that's exactly the setup I was referring to. You do realize the antifreeze can run out of the prop and never go through the engine block at all don't you.
The problem is the thermostat in the engine. Do you know when it is open or closed? How fast does it close when that cold antifreeze hits it? There is a good chance it can get to the thermostat and sent back out without mixing enough with the water in the block.
The thermostat opens and stays open once the engine reaches temp, correct?
Don I'm not sure if we are talking about the same thing. I'm talking about using one of these:
Do-It-Yourself Winterizing Flush Kit - Star Brite 035001 - iboats
You flush with fresh water for 10 minutes at temp. Then run motor on the antifreeze until it comes out the prop hub for a minute or two. This is the way I have winterized my blocks for 25 years and many others as well. Never, not even once, had any kind of a problem and we have freezing, sometimes sub "0" winters here. Every certified Mercruiser dealer I have ever seen winterize a boat uses some version of the above. (usually coming out of a 55 gallon drum or some such) Why would it not protect the block? It goes through the block via the circulating pump.