Ive seen lots of posts searching regarding this but who has done it?
Has anyone kept it fuel injected and if you did how did you wire the shift interrupt?
Im only asking if anyone has done it....Looking for some insight or ideas on how to make it work. Maybe somone to brainstorm with.
I have read plenty of mis-informed posts of why people think the "bottom end wont hold" or how "they are different engines".
Im looking on how to make it work. Am i looking in the wrong place?
I apreciate the regurgatation that it wont work though. (it will)
I am trying to decide between the delteq or the "northstar" ignition sysytem thats used on mastercrafts/aftermarket auto parts. Or using 24x EFI with an ls1 pcm, eliminating not only the optical drive that the mastercrafts used but upgrading to a better pcm and ignition system used on the new LQ4 and lsa marine engines.
No, oxygen sensors are not a problem and havent been for a while.(welcome to the 21s century) Running speed density is how many after market racing setups are run, Several of my personal Tuned modern vehicles(including my LT1) dont use Oxygen sensors, as i have eliminated them.
There is no danger in using an "EFI system" for marine use. For example the coil on plug design eliminates spark plug wires arching probably making the ignition system safer. Or in my case less exposed wire. Running fuel injectors instead of a carb are a huge safety plus, no spilt fuems or fuel, and very very little chance of an atmospheric backfire unlike a carb.
I guess thats why all the high performance boats using the LS motors are unsafe for marine use?
The best option i have right now is, I thinking to use(brainstorming with some hotrod buddies) the shift interrupt matched to the AC circuit relay from the PCM, is uses a .5 volt range, with adjustable settings inside the pcm to change timing based on A/C demand. When the inturruptor grounds its sends that info to the pcm. I can tune it to pull all of the ignition timing when it thinks the A/C button or the "shift interrupt" is on, essentially killing the ignition. people tune their cars using the same tech to retard their timing under boost or nitrous.
(i will be loading a tune to my lt1 vehicle to test this theory).
The only question I would have is how low of an idle must there be for a smooth non damaging shift to occur. I could command say 200 rpm or 50 rpm or even 0rpm when the "A/C" or shift interrupt is engaged.
Im looking on how to make it work. Am i looking in the wrong place?
I apreciate the regurgatation that it wont work though. (it will)
Ok,.. Simple question,....
What are the Advantages of this swap,..??