When do I really need servicing on my 09' Nissan ?

Wee Hooker

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 11, 2005
Messages
618
So not to sound like a cheap skate but if I follow the factory recommendations for servicing on my 09' Nissan 30 four stroke, It will cost me 10% of the motors value every year. I purchased the motor in 09 and used it for 15 hrs. Changed the oil and then didn't use it again till this year. Motor runs fine but if I look that the documents, I'm feeling guilty as I'm overdue to adjust valve clearance and a range of other stuff. So while I'm sitting here lamenting the joys of simplicity in two stroke engines, can somebody in the know tell me what is really advised and what is fluff?
 

Sea Rider

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 20, 2008
Messages
12,345
Factory recommends after new engine break in period has finished a cylinder head re torque to specs, but mostly nobody performs it as will need to be sent to dealer to do so, unless you happen to have a torque wrench and be mechanically inclined to do so. As don't work with 4 strokes engines, check if after break in period needs a valve lash adjustment ? If so take it to dealer. Minor maintenances such as cleaning fuel filter, changing plugs, changing engine oil and filter, lower unit oil can be done by you.

Happy Boating
 
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pvanv

Admiral
Joined
Apr 20, 2008
Messages
6,559
Assuming your model is MFS30B (fuel injected). Year is unimportant for servicing, but model/serial is critical.

From new, change motor oil, filter, and LU lube at around 10-20 hours. Thereafter, every 50 hours or annually.
Drain the vapor separator when storing over the off-season.
Replace water pump kit about every 3 years or so (even if the motor is unused, as the rubber will dry-rot); do the wp kit more often if running in silty/sandy water.
The valve lash can be checked with feeler gauges, but it seldom if ever needs an adjustment over the life of the motor.
If lightly-used, check plugs periodically (when doing annual maintenance), and if needed, replace. Likewise, check for proper lubrication of sliding mechanisms, such as steering, and verify fuel filters (water separator), etc., are in good shape at least annually.

Simple, easy, inexpensive.
 
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Wee Hooker

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 11, 2005
Messages
618
Thanks, Yes that's the model PVanV. I've done and will continue to do the oil and lube stuff. Waterpump kits when needed isn't an issue either. Torqueing head bolts? I have the tools and know how to use them ( Mechanical Engineer by degree and trade) but no idea where to start looking or the specs. Additionally, where is the vapor separator? I have one in the boat but there is another in the engine?? Maybe I need a shop manual.

p.s. This is why I hate 4 strokes. Outboard maintenance used to be easy and second nature ( and even enjoyable) now is 3x more complex for no reason. Give me simplicity any day!
 
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pvanv

Admiral
Joined
Apr 20, 2008
Messages
6,559
You have a complex EFI motor, which, while not maintenance free, is very low maintenance, not unlike a modern car. The vapor separator (not water separator) looks kind of like a carb bowl, and has a brass drain plug at the bottom. Because the fuel there is exposed to atmospheric contamination, it's a good idea to drain it if storing over 30 days, just like a carburetor should, especially given the poor quality fuels we get in the US these days. Also not a bad idea to change the high-pressure gas filter every 200 hours or so.

We never re-torque head bolts on these 3-cylinder EFI motors. Luis was probably thinking of the old 2-cylinder 2-stroke 30 hp models.

The 2 vs 4 stroke discussion is moot, as the EPA has forced all manufacturers into the cleaner 4-strokes. While they are a bit heavier, they are much quieter, smoother, [much more] efficient, and actually have longer intervals for replacing spark plugs, so most of them only need annual maintenance.
 

Lund_bC

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 6, 2012
Messages
136
You should constantly be going threw your motor, ever system and cleaning, checking and all that before a problem comes up. That way you know your motor inside out and when a problem pops up you know what parts are going downhill before.. as for the complicated things that the book says to do i am kind of under the impression if you not noticing a symptom of a problem its not there.. at least that is how i feel about older outboards without a warranty forcing me to do things that cost money.
 
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