What would you use to heat?

[wrvond]

So, I finished my boat/green house and my boat is protected from the weather. I plan on doing a bunch of work on it throughout the winter and need to be able to work in a sweatshirt rather than a parka. I also need it to be warm enough for the epoxy and 4000 to cure when I re-install the port lights. Which brings me to my question:
Which would be the most suitable method of heating roughly 5500 cubic feet of un-insulated work space, propane or kerosene?
Propane looks like it would heat the space faster, but it also looks like it will really use the fuel up quickly.
Kerosene looks like it takes a lot longer to warm things up, but is more fuel efficient. It also provides an emergency indoor heater in the event of power failure. One downside is that I don't have anything else that uses kerosene (except for one very old kerosene lamp). I do, however, keep several propane cylinders on hand at all times.
I'm considering this 23,000 btu kerosene heater - https://www.lowes.com/pd/Dyna-Glo-23-000-BTU-Convection-Kerosene-Heater/3471481
or this 32,000 btu propane heater - https://www.lowes.com/pd/Remington-32-000-BTU-Portable-Propane-Tank-Top-Heater/1000063097

This is what I'm going to try to keep warm -
http://s870.photobucket.com/user/wr...A-4298-960F-21E4D8DD963E_zpsdlled1ly.jpg.html

Looking for practical experiences, suggestions, or advice with this.
Thanks!

 

[Bob_VT]

Be very cautious using kerosene ........... it tends to leave an oil type film on things when extinguished. My neighbor heated a garage with a kero heater and asked me to spray his truck we were rebuilding. The kero left a film which caused fisheyes in the paint. Propane is cleaner and at the same time remember your fuel tank fumes. Ventilate that space then heat it up similar to using a blower in the bilge.

Check the burn rates and see how long the heaters will run on a tank of fuel at full blast too

 

[wrvond]

I have read about kerosene odor at start up and shut down, but haven't seen anything about a film. That's very good to know. Thanks.

 

[ondarvr]

I've had the same experience with Kerosene, soot and film on the surfaces.

 

[bruceb58]

Make sure you have a CO sensor in there for whatever you use.

 

[Scott Danforth]

I have a 3-burner propane heater like the 2-burner you have shown. they work best if your walls are not white as they are radiant heat. I think mine was 42,000 BTU

this looks like it http://www.sportsmanswarehouse.com/...roductDetail/Heaters/prod9999002528/cat100894

The problem I had was all the cold surfaces would condense and get wet, leaving a lot of moisture in the air.

ended up insulating, installing base-board heat and a boiler out back to burn pallets and waste oil

 

[jimmbo]

A 32,000 BTU heater will provide more heat faster than a 23,000 BTU heater irregardless of which fuel is used.

A gallon of Kerosene has 135,000 BTU, a Gallon of Propane(liquid) has 91330 BTU

 

[gm280]

Presently I use a large Kerosene K1 heater in my shop for heat. However, every year, only after it gets cold, I think about an exterior stove that burns wood for the most part and heats water to be circulated into the shop and a fan blowing the heat off the water coils into the shop for heat. My only issues are keeping it fool-proof from too much pressure and such.

I don't like the subtle smell of Kerosene or propane inside the shop. It isn't a huge issue, but a hot water system would be a lot better and cleaner in my opinion. And because I have a fairly large wooded lot, I always have fallen branches every year as well. We presently use those fallen branches for our inside the house fireplace. I have yet needed to buy or go after any firewood. Just my idea of a heating system for a 24' X 36' workshop. :noidea:

 

[wrvond]

The thought of an oil like film on my boat disturbs me. I think I can deal with condensation better than a film, so I think propane may be the way to go. I'll be stopping by Lowe's on my way home this evening, and will likely pick up two of the propane tank top mount heaters and put one at each end of the containment. The description says they are only for 20 lb. propane tanks with no explanation why I wouldn't be able to use one on my 100 lb. propane tank. The only thing I can figure is there has to be a difference in pressure, but then the heater itself has a pressure regulator, so I don't know.
By this time next year I plan to have my insulated boat barn built. It'll have plumbing and electric and be big enough for the boat and travel trailer. That will be exciting!

 

[gm280]

Two issues wrvond. First I use K1 kerosene in my shop for the past four or five years, and I never had any film issues heating with that system. I have never seen any film on anything in my shop using kerosene heat. Secondly, I can't see any issue to prohibit using a 100 lb tank with such a propane type heater. They both have the same fittings so I don't see any issues.And I don't think there are any differences in tank pressures either. Just make sure you use a CO detector to be on the safe side. Can't hurt, but could save a life too. JMHO

 

[ondarvr]

The 20 lb is just the normal size, they can be connected to any size tank, or run hoses from the tank and mount the heater where needed.

You could also look for a more permanent type, but used, this could be difficult at this time of year though.

 

[WIMUSKY]

If you're going to heat on a regular basis, how about one of these units that mount on the ceiling?
http://www.qcsupply.com/modine-hot-dawg-heater.html?gclid=CKL_0Yy459ACFda6wAodWAMM8g

They start at 30k BTU. I use a 45k for a 2 stall, 24x24 garage.......

Do those sunflower type heaters above put out fumes? I know the one I used for an ice house sure stunk.....

 

[wrvond]

Great input guys. Thanks very much! WIMUSKY, I was looking at that Modine heater, obviously wouldn't work well inside my hot house, but was thinking about in the planned barn, when I suddenly recalled the pot belly stove I have stored in the basement to use when the barn is built.
It occurred to me that there is no reason I couldn't use the wood stove inside the plastic structure, I already have the flue and even the proper air gap pipe to penetrate the wall. I think I'd want to get some Reflectix or similar to protect the poly near the stove, but the cost for that is minimal.
A wood stove rings all the bells, cheap to operate, puts out tons of heat - I can even make coffee on it!

 

[DeepCMark58A]

Yeah wood is my preferred fuel, then again I live in an area with tons of oak wilt so pretty much an endless supple of fuel.

 

[WIMUSKY]

Sorry, I thought it was a wooden structure..... I just saw the link what you're trying to keep warm....ooooops...

How about a propane torpedo heater?

Something like this:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Dyna-Glo-...g&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[StarTed]

My experiences with a non vented heater for my shop left me with water over all the surfaces when it cooled back down. That was not good for the lathe. Hot air holds more moisture than cold air so as you burn it heats up and the combustion moisture get absorbed in the air. When it cools back down it settles out on everything it touches. Think fog.

I went to wood heat that is of course vented outside.

I've also build propane furnaces that have heat exchangers in them and vent out. I like that best. It's probably best to pick up an old RV furnace and modify it for your needs if you're going that route.

I've built wood burning stoves and used them very satisfactorily in a poly tarp tents that I've sewn together. I use them for my hunting camps. They work great and can cook you out if not vented well. I use a thin sheet of metal (aluminum or stainless) to run the stove pipe through. The edge contact doesn't conduct much heat. A 18" X 18" sheet would be bigger than anything I've used. Just pop rivet it in with metal on both sides paying attention to water and gravity.

I'll see if I can find a picture of one. Good luck.

 

[wrvond]

Yeah wood is my preferred fuel, then again I live in an area with tons of oak wilt so pretty much an endless supple of fuel.

My yard is ten acres with at least 80% coverage, mostly maple, black walnut, and white oak, so I'm with you on the fuel supply!

Sorry, I thought it was a wooden structure..... I just saw the link what you're trying to keep warm....ooooops...

How about a propane torpedo heater?

<snip>

No worries! I have been really leaning towards something with forced air because I think it is more efficient at heating larger spaces, but I really want to stay away from being dependent on electricity. Probably because the electric bill seems to double every winter as it is.

<snip>. I use a thin sheet of metal (aluminum or stainless) to run the stove pipe through. The edge contact doesn't conduct much heat. A 18" X 18" sheet would be bigger than anything I've used. Just pop rivet it in with metal on both sides paying attention to water and gravity.
<snip>

Terrific idea! I can mount a thin sheet of aluminum to a 1x1 frame and then staple that to the poly sheet to form a "window" for the pipe to pass through. Perfect! :thumb:

 

[StarTed]

Here are some ideas for wood burning in a poly tarp shelter. This shelter was built from previously used tarps. The picture is from a trip in 2012 Here you can see the stainless steel ring I made and installed for the pipe to exit. This picture shows the setup with what I call my mail box stove. It heats well and doesn't smoke when loaded but the fire won't hold all night because the stove isn't very large. I think a shelter made with the stove (or heater) at the transom end would work quite well. Just some ideas for your profect.

 

[wrvond]

I'm going to put the stove in today. My wife is complaining that I am going to ruin her greenhouse. I think she wants a couple kerosene heaters...

 

[gm280]

I'm going to put the stove in today. My wife is complaining that I am going to ruin her greenhouse. I think she wants a couple kerosene heaters...

Just put your heater in today and tell her it uses kerosene. WALA, everybody is happy. :watermelon: