What does this wire do? Johnson Stinger 75hp, broken wire above choke solenoid.

[ctdude]

Hi,
second attempt at getting a reply! ;-)
I've started to attempt to repair (get an old motor to start again) my 1979 Stinger, and so far, I'm going better than expected. I've managed to get the starter motor to work, so tomorrow i can do some compression tests. Results to follow!

Anyway, in todays lesson I found this broken wire that appears to have no other end (it does not seem to possible reach to any other relevant moving part, so i thought I'd put it out to you good people on here.
here's a couple of pics to help...

Thanks for your thoughts, ideas and helpful advice.

 

[racerone]

You are not the first to be confused by that.-----Job is to hold choke open at full throttle.---See if it does that.

 

[ctdude]

You are not the first to be confused by that.-----Job is to hold choke open at full throttle.---See if it does that.

OK, thanks for the reply, that sounds feasable, I hope to test that theory today.

Today I am compression testing, and then hoping to start the motor. Given that all the wiring has been pulled out due to corrossion and rust, can anyone tell me where I would need to apply 12v to so I can run the motor? I have bought new 2B&S gauge wire and am using it direct to starter to test starter and do compression test later today. Now I just need to know where to apply power to get the motor to fire. Thanks in advance.

 

[racerone]

Whoa, ----That motor will run with a dead battery !!!!----Do not apply 12 volts to any ignition wires to get it to run.----Find a manual as your approach may get expensive.---It is not a " theory " about that wire holding the choke either !

 

[ctdude]

Whoa, ----That motor will run with a dead battery !!!!----Do not apply 12 volts to any ignition wires to get it to run.----Find a manual as your approach may get expensive.---It is not a " theory " about that wire holding the choke either !

Hi racerone,
thanks for your reply, I had no doubt that what you said was correct, I just had to prove it to myself, job done, i have physically moved the parts and understand how that works. Thanks for the knowledgeable tip!

I am using my car battery to crank the starter motor over. I wont be putting power to anything else until I know where, what and how much.
So when you say it will run with a dead battery, do you mean if I put fuel up to the motor it will spark and run? I assume there must be power to something to allow fuel to flow, provide a spark or something like that, because I am assuming that is what the electric start/stop does. In other words, how do I stop it once it is running then?

Anyway, for now, I did compression testing today, have figures of:
Cylinder 1: 112psi.
Cylinder 2: 108psi
Cylinder 3: 120psi
That all sounds ok to me, they are all pretty close and all over 100psi. I did a test by just cranking it for about 1 second per cylinder, but then gave cylinder 3 another crank and it went from about 110psi and topped out at 120psi. The point of the test wasn't so much for 100% accurate measurement but more to know if this motor is worth spending more time and money on.

So far it is telling me it wants to run!

I have bought some more starter cable and some new battery terminals. I will keep using the car battery until I know the engine will run.
Thanks for your help and tips. If anyone has any other helpful advice, please feel free to pass it on.
Cheers.

 

[eavega]

So when you say it will run with a dead battery, do you mean if I put fuel up to the motor it will spark and run? I assume there must be power to something to allow fuel to flow, provide a spark or something like that, because I am assuming that is what the electric start/stop does. In other words, how do I stop it once it is running then?

The only thing the battery does on that motor is turn the starter motor, and act as a voltage sink. The fuel pump is mechanical and runs off of a pulse from the crank case. The ignition current is produced by the stator (in combination with magnets under the flywheel). You could run that motor without a battery as long as you could get the flywheel spinning fast enough to allow the stator to produce enough current to the power pack to create the spark.

As to your compression test, the individual compression readings are not as important as that they are all within 10% of each other, which you are just about there. One thing, though; you should perform the test by cranking the same amount of time on each cylinder, and you should probably go longer than one second...

Rgds

-E

 

[ctdude]

Thanks eavega, all good info. There must be a solenoid or relay or some other electrical input that stops the motor too though, right? I can always just pull the fuel line for now though.
So to start it, just fuel to the motor and crank the starter motor?
Thanks racer1 and eavega, I think I'll try and run it tonight and see how it goes.

 

[gm280]

If you can't get the engine to shut off, put a rag over the carb inlet and it will choke out... And when doing a compression test, I usually let the read peak out and then stop running the starter. That way you get the best possible results...

 

[Fed]

They turn off by grounding the powerpack through the key switch.
When you switch to OFF the contacts close in the keyswitch and short the yellow/black? wire to ground, different to a car.