Wet Sand and Buff

[25thmustang]

So this topic seems to be a hot one lately. With discussions of vasoline, verse wet sanding and buffing I thought I would give my .02 cents.

My project boat from a few years back, I went with the vasoline trick. Although I never enjoyed the boat, as a rotted stringer lead me to scrap the project, the vasoline did however stay on it for a year or so, through the elements. The day I sold it, it actually still appeared better than the untreated side. This was with no washing, and no cleaning after applying the vasoline. With upkeep it might have looked even better.

With that being said on the new boat, I did a full buff on the hull and it looked good. Over the summer it got a bit stained, and chalky again. The true issue was the blue top sides. They "shined" up a tiny bit when I hit it with Meguires gelcoat stuff, but after a short time it looked crappy again.

This year was the last chance before a repaint. I took some very fine sandpaper, and wet sanding a bit of the back corner. I then hit it with the one step cut and polish from Meguires on speed 3, on my DA buffer. I was very happy with the results. Happy enough how it looks now that I may not actually repaint, and might hit the white topsides with some wet sanding prior to buffing.

Snapped a few photos. Definately looking much better, and it only took me about 15 minutes to do this amount. Knowing I only have to wet sand the top sides, I couldn't see it taking more than an afternoon.

Hopefully this doesn't turn into a debate, as I think both remedies or quick fixes have their place, but it was very, very easy to do what I did here. Honestly, it probably was only slightly more time consuming than a vasoline application.

Before:

Before/After:

After:

 

[L8-Again]

Re: Wet Sand and Buff

I haven't gone as far as wet sanding, but my wife and I spent a good 10 hours with rubbing compound, glaze, and wax treatment when we first bought the boat. It's been 2 years and it still looks great. Wax on in the spring in about an hour and it is blinding.

We did not polish below the water line. Didn't feel like laying on the floor with water and rubbing compound dripping all over me! I am going to use the vasoline on the areas that I did not hit with the rubbing compound so the chalkiness isn't so obvious. I believe, like you said, that the quick fix has it's place. For my boat it will be areas on the stern and below the water line. My boat is a trailer baby and most of our outings are day trips, with 2-3 multi-day trips during the season.

I don't expect to have to use the rubbing compound for quite a while, and keeping it waxed, clean and covered helps too!

Looks great!

 

[25thmustang]

Re: Wet Sand and Buff

Thanks.

I agree, the vasoline does have it's places. Cheaper, easier, etc... I would do a test spot of the vasoline and check it against the sand/buff, but would rather just do it one way and have it look like it was all done one way.

 

[Hogger]

Re: Wet Sand and Buff

I just went through this.
The previous owner sprayed clear coat over the colored gel coat. When I got it the clear was chipping off, and discoloring. So I ended up scraping it off with a razor blade, then wet sanded it, then buffed it with a one step compound. Turned out pretty good, I think.

 

[HollaGeo]

Re: Wet Sand and Buff

Detailing or better yet paint correction is a trade. There are paint depth gauges which people use to even out the paint via. paint correction, there are different pads, lighting makes a difference, etc, etc. If you really want to educate yourself on the CORRECT way to detail, check out www.autopia.org.

 

[25thmustang]

Re: Wet Sand and Buff

Believe it or not, I am over on Autopia quite a bit, have both a DA and a rotary, have wool and foam pads, and a good amount of different cut creams, polishes, waxes and sealers as I detail cars on the side (for friends and family). Autopia is an awesome site and very, very inspiring. I have learned a ton from there, and some of the before and after work is amazing.

With that said, I do not have a paint depth meter, and not even sure I would go to those lengths with the boat. Last year was a simple one step compound and wax, which will be the same process on the rub rail down. It's the top sides I plan to spend a bit more time on.

This was from last season. Is it perfect, no. Is it acceptable, yup!