Water leak exhaust separator

gohawks

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Jul 5, 2006
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Sorry about that first one, I am not sure what happened there.

I have a 1986 Chapparal, mercruiser 260 Alpha 1.

I believe the water leak is through the transom plate at the exhaust separator o-ring.

The leak is worse with the outdrive up.

I would say about 1/2 gallon - hour.

My book talks about 5 bolts, 4 hex head and one allen.

Is it physically possible to tighten these bolts without pulling the engine.

Thanks again, Roy.
 

Don S

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Aug 31, 2004
Messages
62,321
Re: Water leak exhaust separator

Are you sure about the location of the leak? Are you sure it isn't the Ujoint bellows or shift cable bellows?
If it is the gasket between the transom plate and the transom, tightening the bolts isn't going to do it. They don't loosen up. What happens is the transom wood gets rotten and the bolts pull through. The only fix is to remove the engine, drive, transom shield and rebuild the transom.

PS: In the future, instead of reposting a new thread, just use the edit function. Check the interact drop down menu.

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gohawks

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Jul 5, 2006
Messages
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Re: Water leak exhaust separator


Thanks for the edit Idea.

I will pull the outdrive and and see if there is water in the bellows.

The outdrive oil was milky for the first time ever.

Thanks, Roy.
 

Don S

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Re: Water leak exhaust separator

That may indicate the bellows is bad. The input shaft seal is not designed to keep water out, that is the bellows job. If there is water in the bellows, it gets into the gear lube.
 

gohawks

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Jul 5, 2006
Messages
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Re: Water leak exhaust separator

[quote time=1152716779 user=Don S

I pulled the outdrive, and it looks as if someone put orange sherbert in the ujoint bellows, some real nasty stuff. It came out in a big glob, looked like the last mechanic lost his lunch.

I could see some of this in a little hole from inside the transom above the drive shaft.

There is a pretty good hole in the shift cable bellows.

I cleaned out the ujoint bellows and could not see any holes in it.

I have read a few other posts on this subject and probably good advice to change the ujoint bellows anyway.

I don't think I will change the ujoints though. They look brand new.

What is the best ujoint lubricant?

Is it possible water can get to the ujoints from the shift cable?

I didn't follow the instructions correctly and removed set screw from the back of the shift bracket and there was water in the hole and the screw is rusty.

My book is not real clear to me on changing the cable bellows but it sounds like the cable has to be pulled out of the boat to do this (with the special tool).

Any ideas on the "special" wrench to get the cable nut loose?

The hose clamp on the big end of the cable bellows looks tricky to get to, is this why I may have to remove the bell housing?

I found one post that said the bell housing had to be removed, I hope not.

I have a 86 mercruiser 260 alpha one, new shift cable version.

The shift cable looks to be very good but again good advice to probably change it.

Well there you have it, any and all ideas accepted.

Anyone need an old ski boat?

Thanks for your time, Roy.
 

gohawks

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Jul 5, 2006
Messages
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Re: Water leak exhaust separator

gohawks said:
Sorry about that first one, I am not sure what happened there.

In retro-spect this post should have been labeled "shift cable bellows water leak".
I believe I could have seen the water coming in if I would have looked in the right place, looking down the transom just to the drivers side of the drive shaft where the cable comes into the boat.
When I removed the cable to change the bellows I broke the cable at the bell housing where the bolt/nut attaches to the cable shield. I think it was already damaged.
Note to self, be sure the cable spins with the cable mounting bolt when loosening and tightening the shift cable.
I made a special tool from a 9/16 short socket, cut the side out (crows foot) to fit over the cable and welded a 3/8 x 1/2 x 5" bar on the side and top opposite the cut out.
This worked well, I could use a small 1/2" wrench and turn the nut about 1/2 a turn, I used some smooth pliers to hold the cable from recoiling when I took another bite on the nut. I could set the wrench against the bell housing to hold it while I got in the boat and spun the cable to relieve the reverse tension on the cable.
A helper on this project is a much, much better idea.
This cable makes a pretty sharp bend just after it gets past the transom plate and under the exhaust separator. I had to make sure the cable nut was pulled tight against the bell housing and that the bellows wouldn't push the nut away to get it started.
I installed the bellows and outdrive before I hooked up the cable in the boat, the replacement cable was an almost exact match so I just made sure the shifter and prop was in full forward, adjusted the cable end mounts and parts so they fit were they where when I took it off, checked the shift cut out switch and all is good.
Ran it on the lake for a few hours on Sunday, no water in the boat and it shifted fwd and backward just fine.
As for the orange sherbert in the ujoint belows, I am hoping the water leaked in from the damaged shift cable and bellows, the poor condition of the bell housing gasket or the missing seal washer from the lower drain plug. I will see later this year when I pull the drive again.
Shift cable 64.00, cable bellows kit 25.00, outdrive gaskets,lube,grease, new grease gun, misc 65.00,
Having a great day on the lake with the family, priceless.

The boats not for sale anymore, Roy.
 

marunr

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 11, 2004
Messages
225
Re: Water leak exhaust separator

Did you check to make sure no water made it's way in to the outdrive?
 

gohawks

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Jul 5, 2006
Messages
9
Re: Water leak exhaust separator

marunr said:
Did you check to make sure no water made it's way in to the outdrive?

I plan on replacing the outdrive oil before I go out again.

I have all 12 fingers crossed.

Roy.
 
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