Water issue with old Johnson

[sbump26]

I just bought a 10hp Johnson, model QD-16 ser.1270223, a 55 model. I ran it in a bucket and did not have water coming out the pee hole. i removed the lower unit and the impeller was new (had a plastic housing and very pliable vanes). i put the lower unit back on, but haven't tried it yet. i have read several posts here and some say that the water doesn't come out the pee hole on some motors, but out the exhaust hole on the bottom of the motor. there was a copper tube that ran into a grommet on the upper unit and i put the copper tube back in it. i also changed the lower unit oil while i was there. there was equal parts water and oil that came out. i also noted that some posts say there is an o ring that goes under the impeller. there wasn't one on this one. can anyone tell me if there is supposed to be a stream coming from the pee hole, and is there supposed to be an o ring on the bottom of the impeller? also, it doesn't seem to want to idle. i can get it run for only about a minute before it wants to die. that should be long enough for water to come out right?

 

[R.Johnson]

Re: Water issue with old Johnson

There is no pee hole on these early engines. The water comes out the exhaust relief hole located about mid-way on the back of the exhaust housing. There is no o-ring under the impeller. I believe there is a gasket under the impeller plate, and this should be used with sealer. Make sure you have the copper water tube in both the upper grommet, and water pump grommet. On this age engine, you may want to replace the upper one. Before installing the water tube, deburr both ends so it can't snag, or roll over the grommet, apply grease on both end's of the tube. Test run with water over entire gear case. These little engines pump quite alot of water, and run quite cool. When in proper tune, these are nice running motors. They are hard to beat as fishing motors, even by todays standards.

 

[OBJ]

Re: Water issue with old Johnson

Hi Ya' sbump...welcome to the forums.<br /><br />Let me add a little to RJohnsons' good advice.<br /><br />When ya' run the engine, did you make sure the water level was ABOVE the pump? These pumps do not draft water. They need to be in the water to work.<br /><br />Water and oil in the gear case...not good. Probably needs the prop shaft seal replaced. Just a guess. Being a split gear case, there is also an o'ring between the halves. You might do well to replace all includign the shift rod o'ring. To really find out what seal is leaking, with the lower unit off, rig a bycycle pump to the oil drain hole and put about 5psi air in the lower unit and drop the whole she-bang into a garbage can full of water. If bubbles come from where they ain't supposed to, that's your leak. Don't forget, there is a seal under the water pump housing also.<br /><br />On the idleing issue, do you have any idea when the carb was last overhauled. If you can still see the old black float bowl gasket between the float bowl and carb body, it probably has been a while or maybe never. These older engines used cork floats that were varnished. The new fuels of today take the varnish of and allows the cork to become soaked with fuel. Won't let the float go up and down to maintain the level in the bowl. Just something to think about.<br /><br />Or, when you get the engine in the water, start her up, preferably on the boat, warm it up and set the high speed needle first for best top end. Then slow down and set the low end needle for best idle. This may cure your low end idle woes.<br /><br />Keep us posted....thanks.

 

[sbump26]

Re: Water issue with old Johnson

thanks for the quick response! first of all, i am doubting whether there was enough water over the pump. when it was running it was running pretty high rpm's and the exhaust may have been blowing the water away from the pickup hole. i will ask at the local marine dealer for an upper grommet. i also did not see a gasket under the plastic impeller cover. there was a metal plate under it that only fit one way, then the impeller sat on that and then the cover. i checked to make sure the pin was engaging the impeller. which way do the vanes go? i left it the way it was when i opened it, but wonder if they should go the other way. when it changes direction does it still pump? if that is the case does it matter which way the vanes go?<br />on the carb issue, the carb looks like it has been overhauled. it is real clean. the clear bowl doesn't have a black gasket under it. it just fit on the bottom of the carb held in place by the neat little loop device that you can loosen and tighten by the knob under it. when i got it started, it was roaring, then when i tried to slow it down it would die. about what settings should i set it at? the lever at the top is the slow speed and doesn't semm to do much. the bottom is the high speed and seems to let more or less gas through. the gas can has a push knob that fills the carb bowl. pull the rope and when you get it running, stays full of gas. heard a hissing sound from the tank around the plate on top that has the connector on it. opened the cap and it was pressurized. how or what pressurized the tank? could this be while it won't run that long?

 

[OBJ]

Re: Water issue with old Johnson

sbump....what ya' have is the old two hose, pressurized tank system. No fuel pump. The gas is delivered to the carb from the tank by pressuizing the tank which forces gas to the bowl. One line to the tank is connected to the engine block. On the down stroke, air is forced back thru the hose to the tank to keep it pressurized. Any leak in the hose or on top of the tank will defeat this system. The little pump knob on the tank pumps the tank up for starting. After that you shouldn't have to worry about it. If you heard a leak, I would look for it and make repairs. Just get some soap solution and spread it over the top of the tank and watch for bubbles. The gasket around the tank top is easy to replace if it's leaking. <br /><br />Some guys have mounted fuel pumps on these types of engines with good results. You can search the forum for the subject.<br /><br />Needle settings are small. High speed about a turn to start. Probably end up down around a half turn out for best performance at high end. Low speed start, bout 3/4 turn out should do.