Water Filling Up In Engine Compartment, Why?????

BornBlue82

Seaman
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Feb 11, 2013
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59
Ok so just to through this out there, I am still extremely new to the boating world. So today I was on the lake with friends and we all decided to doc at an island. Instead of running my boat up on the sandy shore, I anchored it about 25 ft off of the shore. The front was positioned away from the island and the back was towards us. I had the tilt in the trailer position, because I didn't want it to rub the bottom bc it was about waste deep. Well about 2 hours pass and I board my boat to grab a drink and noticed that there was water on the floor board. I pulled the engine cover back and seen that the bottom of the engine compartment was filled with water. I then turned on the bilge pump and removed water until the pulleys were no longer in water. I then started the boat and the pump pushed water out a lot quicker. It seemed like there were no problems, as the boat started right up. What causes the water to fill up like that? Is it because the tilt was in the trailer postion? Is this normal on in/outboard motors (01 bayliner capri)? Should I put a float switch on this to prevent this from happening? Is this normal? Thanks in advance for the advice!
 

redneck joe

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 18, 2009
Messages
10,487
float switch yes, and probably have a bad boot on the outdrive allowing to leak in.


How many times have you been out?


open you engine hatch and put a fan on it for a couple days. Electrical systems and water don't play well together
t
 

kjsAZ

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Jun 15, 2012
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I assume that you have a Mercruiser alpha1G2 in that boat. When were the bellows changed last? If they never were they are well past their use before date for a 2001 boat. Many boats sank because of the bellows not being replaced as a routine maintenance. While you are at it: change the gimbal bearing too.

There naturally could be another leak but the shift/exhaust/gimbal bellows are prime candidates especially when the boat was stored long time (like over the winter)with the drive all the way up and even worse was started in trailer tilt.

A float switch is more or less a must and should be mandatory so manufacturers have no choice but to install them ex factory.
 
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Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
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13,753
I agree, sounds like you should get the bellows changed out and the gimbal bearing replaced as well since it was most likely water soaked. Also the fan is a good idea, I would also crank the trailer jack all the way up, pull the bilge drain plug, open everything inside the boat and remove anything that got soaked so things can dry out.
 

smoedog

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Mar 25, 2012
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Exact same thing happened to me, first time i took out my new to me boat. I beached, raised the drive and an hour later tried to head back to the ramp to find i couldnt get on plane, pulled the hatch and I was flooded. When I got it on the trailer, found I blew the shift cable bellow.

Next time I took it out, almost sunk again from the exhaust riser flapper coming loose and wearing a hole in my y pipe lol
 

BornBlue82

Seaman
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Feb 11, 2013
Messages
59
Wow, I've taken the boat out a few times. I bought it last year and only took it out about 4 or 5 times. And only 3 times this year. I haven't done any major maintenance to it, other than battery, belt, alternator and engine services. I guess I will look in to swapping those out. Is it difficult to change the bellows and gimble bearing?
 

kjsAZ

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Jun 15, 2012
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The transom seal kits are pretty cheap from SEI (sterndrive.cc, $85), the cost is in the labor. While the drive is removed and if you don't know for sure that the impeller was changed not more than a year ago I would have that changed too. They usually are only good for 3 years.

Mine just gets all the seal kits (lower/upper/transom) replaced as it's over-due. The shift shoe seal already started to drip gear oil. It's at the end cheaper to do it all in one as the drive is off anyhow.
 

tpenfield

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Ok so just to through this out there, I am still extremely new to the boating world. . . . What causes the water to fill up like that? Is it because the tilt was in the trailer postion? Is this normal on in/outboard motors (01 bayliner capri)? Should I put a float switch on this to prevent this from happening? Is this normal? Thanks in advance for the advice!

Nothing normal about your boat sinking. It is a good thing you were thirsty and had to go onboard.

Like the others said, sounds like the bellows have failed and putting the outdrive in the trailer position just stretched it open. I assume that the boat continued to leak for the rest of the day? There should be a float switch of some sort to automatically turn on the bilge pump.


With a boat, it is 'normal' to have some sort of issue, though. Just a matter of staying on top of them . . .
 

Bob_VT

Moderator & Unofficial iBoats Historian
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Please tell me you trailer that boat or it might be on the bottom if left at a dock.
 

BornBlue82

Seaman
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Feb 11, 2013
Messages
59
For some reason there is no float switch, so thats my next purchase. Along with everything to do a full transom service.
Nothing normal about your boat sinking. It is a good thing you were thirsty and had to go onboard.

Like the others said, sounds like the bellows have failed and putting the outdrive in the trailer position just stretched it open. I assume that the boat continued to leak for the rest of the day? There should be a float switch of some sort to automatically turn on the bilge pump.


With a boat, it is 'normal' to have some sort of issue, though. Just a matter of staying on top of them . . .
 

kjsAZ

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Jun 15, 2012
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Unfortunately a lot of boats don't come with float switches from the factory. Some have these Rule pumps which check for water every so often but that requires that you disconnect the battery on the trailer or they drain the battery. Better to use a good old fashioned float switch for that.....
 

BornBlue82

Seaman
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Feb 11, 2013
Messages
59
Thank you everyone for all the advice. I put the fan on the engine compartment all day and plan on continuing that for the next few days. I did however find the PROBLEM, it is the shifting cable bellows. It has a huge hole in it. I'm gonna go ahead and purchase the transom kit from SEI, it seems like a great price. I hope the quality is good. It also looks like the gimbal bearing comes with it. I'm also taking the advice and going ahead and replacing the impeller. Is there anything else that I should service while I have this disassembled? Also, some reviews on SEI would be great.
 

kjsAZ

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Jun 15, 2012
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Well, the price is definitely right compared to Merc parts. The mechanic I use meanwhile signed up as a dealer for them after he had used their parts for around 2 years and had only good experience with them. He's now an official dealer for them since 2+ years and never had any issues. Around 30 lower units and full drives all together in service and a bunch of "rubber kits" on top of that.
SEI had some serious issues in the first 2 years after they started but were very generous with their warranty. A friend had an issue with his first year SEI alpha and after 4 years (3 year warranty) they replaced it for free.
Naturally they also will have issues once in a while as you will always have in any operation but at least they stand behind their product (my experience).

My complete service done right now is all SEI parts. The previous impeller I changed ~4 years ago was an SEI too and was just fine.

While you are at it you could also replace all the lower and upper unit seals as it's not a lot more cost and the unit is already apart. To me anything "rubber" is suspect after a few years.
That'll give you a completely new sealed outdrive and piece of mind for at least another 4 years.

And install a float switch while you are digging in. Own cable to battery plus (or one of the input poles of the switch) with it's own fuse. PLEASE use waterproof shrink tube covered butt-splices or even better bare metal ones and shrink a dual wall shrink tube over it if you don't have the appropriate crimp tool for the insulated ones.
http://www.pinzi.us/boating/Wiring-done-right.pdf
 
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thumpar

Admiral
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Jun 21, 2007
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6,138
If the lower shift cable hasn't been replaced in the last couple years or you don't know I would do that too since you have to remove it anyway.
 

kjsAZ

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433
That'll most likely be done anyhow as they tend to break when you pull the bell housing out. Depends on how much they pinched the cable when they installed the clamps but quite often it goes especially when it's older.
 
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